Zest Bistro
In less than a year Zest Bistro, in the Green-lyn Village Centre, has been recognised as one of the best new restaurants in South Africa. The young team come from the Prue Leith College of Food and Wine and it shows. Sidney Cousins, the former principal, colleague Dieter Eberlanz and graduate Anchen Buchner produce cuisine as clean and classical as the bistro's crisp white tablecloths, but with a contemporary finesse that's fresh and individual.
It's more upmarket than the average bistro, but without the formality of a restaurant. The out-side deck is perfect for balmy Pretoria evenings, while the monochromatic interior is enlivened by the simple elegance of symmetrically hung mirrors and a bold, wrought iron chandelier.
After the constraints of a teaching college Sidney clearly relishes the freedom to "live himself into the food" with colleagues who share the same vision. Don't expect fusion food or a myriad of competing flavours on a plate, says Sidney. It's just the basics, but with a twist.
And what a twist. A cornucopia of snails in a light-as-air case of puff pastry with tangy blue cheese and bacon sauce was the food of angels. The strong flavours were perfectly balanced to meld into a single note of delight. Flambéed lamb's kidneys were equally rich, while the smoked salmon was restraint itself, accompanied by lightly dressed green salad, crunchy herbed rösti and a twirl of horseradish and cream cheese. Most of the starters are elevated to light lunch status during the day.
The mains acknowledge Pretoria's red meat tastes. Fillet is roasted or grilled then served with a sunny exuberance of peppadews, sundried tomatoes and olive tapenade, or a more opulent combination of Camembert cheese and cranberry sauce. Tender lamb shank is given the Middle Eastern treatment with a spicy blending of Bulgar wheat, yoghurt, chillies, ginger and coriander while sublimely comforting, succulent pork neck is accompanied by plump, brandied prunes. There's also fresh kabeljou, either grilled with a simple, delectable herb crust, or jazzed up with a piquant fruit salsa and spicy chorizo sausage.
Fresh fruit features prominently on the des- sert menu: fruit fool, fresh fruit tartlets or flambéed berries and bananas with homemade vanilla ice cream. A perfect conclusion is the clean, sharp flavour of the burnt lemon tart with crème yoghurt and lemon confit.
The menu is small and new dishes come and go every two weeks. The serving staff is young and fresh, not amiss to the odd belly ring, but with a professional panache that makes dining there a pleasure.
The lively winelist offers a blend of good-value producers and proven favourites. Mark-ups are friendly: Groote Post Chenin Blanc, for example, is R58, Forrester's Petit Chenin R44. Even Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc comes in at R85, and the only Chardonnay to break the R100 barrier is Jordan at R113. L'Ormarins and Middelvlei Cabs hit R100, while Rhebokskloof Merlot is R82. There's a good selection of wines by the glass too. Wines from private collections, though generally on the young side, offer rarities like Meerlust Merlot 1989.
Average three-course meal: R127.
Menu du jour (main and dessert): R84.
Menu du jour (starter and main): R92.
Menu du jour (three-course): R115.
By Alice Coetzee
Address: Greenlyn Village Centre, 13th Street, Menlo Park. Tel 012 460 0275. Lunch and dinner Tues-Fri. Dinner only Saturday. Lunch only Sunday. BYO R20 for white wine, R30 for red wine. Smoking only on outside deck. Wheelchair accessible. Guarded parking in the centre. Diabetic dishes can be arranged in advance.
Food: 4.5
Wine list3
Ambience: 4
Service: 4
Value: 4
