Work up a thirst
My husband hasn’t forgiven me for the adventure that I organised last year. I sold it to him well – a five-day trip from Walker Bay through the fruit farms and wineries of Elgin, including a night on one of my favourite estates, Paul Cluver; a couple of nights in and around Franschhoek; then the grand finale, a real spoil at Lanzerac Manor. The whales put on a fine show in Hermanus, the beaches and coastal paths of the southern Cape were simply magnificent and we romped the fynbos-clad hills of the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, the heart of the Cape Floral Kingdom. Every night we enjoyed good food and fine wine, so I really couldn’t understand why he was unhappy. Granted, I didn’t tell him that he’d be covering the ground of the Cape Odyssey trail run – a mere 210km. But I didn’t think a little detail like that would detract from the fun!
What the adventure did highlight was the incredible diversity of activities available in the winelands. If you plan to venture no further than Constantia (half an hour from the Cape Town city centre) and want to work up a bit of a sweat beforehand, you’re spoilt for choice. Start the day with a hike up and then an abseil off the iconic mountains in the area; take your bike for a spin in Tokai; eyeball sharks in the Predator Tank of the Two Ocean’s Aquarium, go for a surf in Muizenberg...
If you’re of a competitive bent, then go further afield. There are a number of mountain bike races and fun runs on offer as well as the fishing, 4x4 and other entertaining acivities which form part of the annual festivals in Robertson, Breedekloof and Franschhoek. Favourites that have already taken place this year include the Vigne à Vigne mountain bike races and 10km run on Lourensford in Stellenbosch, staged to coincide with the closing stage of the Absa Cape Epic, the Cape Argus Pick n Pay Mountain Bike Challenge through the magnificent grounds of Boschendal in Franschhoek, and the new Muldersvlei Vineyard Run which traverses four different Boland vineyards – all of which offer free tastings.
But you can get out and hike, run, mountain bike or
explore the vineyards on horseback every day of the year.
Several wine farms have guided trails on their estates –
ideal if you want to take it easy and learn about the winemaking
process en route. Outside the winter months,
CapeXpectations offer a number of interesting walks
through the vineyards, tailored to suit your interests, fitness
and time constraints. My favourite, in the Simonsberg
region outside Stellenbosch, paints the whole story
of the South African wine industry – the history, the people,
the viticulture, the viniculture – as well as offering
spectacular views and wonderful wines. A typical walk is
around 7 to 8km and is moderately strenuous – although
it includes plenty of stops for tastings, admiring the vistas
and, should you wish, a picnic lunch.
For a more taxing challenge, try the self-guided trails
in the Mont Rochelle reserve just above Franschhoek,
among the granite domes of Paarl Mountain Reserve or
through the fynbos of Jonkershoek in Stellenbosch. The
single track at Jonkershoek is also a Mecca for mountain
bikers – and you can freewheel from the gates of the reserve
all the way to Lanzerac for some post-ride refreshment.
If you don’t have your own bike, head to the Dirtopia Trail Centre on Delvera Farm near Stellenbosch. In addition to trails to suit all, they run mountain bike clinics, hire out and deliver bikes to other areas of the winelands and host various events including the annual Dirtopia Mountain Bike Festival. Another premier mountain biking option is Lebanon Trails near Grabouw, where there’s everything from easy rolling valley trails for the family to challenging single-track for those who like to grind their gears.
Grabouw is also home to one of the best quad biking operations in the Western Cape. The emphasis of Nature Discovery Tours is exactly as the name suggests, using the specially adapted low-impact off-road vehicles to get out and enjoy the biodiversity of the Elgin Valley, rather than for macho, eat-up-the-dirt type antics. Each group is led by a qualified field guide who explains the importance of the unique flora and fauna of the environment you pass through and the routes follow well-worn tracks, so are ideal for novices. Tour durations range from a morning to their three-day circular trail, which traverses both the winelands of the Elgin Valley and around Hermanus.
Another fun adventure is to go out on a tour of Helderberg wine farm Dellrust with Nature Quad Rides. During the February and March harvest time they equip you with crates and secateurs so you can ride around harvesting your own grapes, which you then get to stomp once you’re back at the cellar.
Higher up the adrenalin scale are the quad and 4x4 trails at MontEco just outside Montagu. The network of 4x4 trails on this rugged farm in the Klein Karoo makes it into Drive Out magazine’s “TOP TEN 4x4 Destinations in Southern Africa” every year. Despite its proximity to the winelands you feel that you’re out in the wilds, and the watchful eyes of curious antelope add to the pressure of the challenging mountain terrain. Though there’s plenty to test even the most hard-core off-roaders, there are also tamer routes – such as the Bulberg loop – that the faint hearted can enjoy, as well as guided trails in open 4x4 safari vehicles or on quad bikes for those without their own vehicles.
If you fancy quaffing as you go, then a horseback tour of the local wine farms from Paradise Stables near Franschhoek is recommended. Tastings are interspersed with gentle canters through open country and the sturdy steeds are clearly used to accommodating slightly tipsy riders! Alternatively, head out with Wine Valley Trails for a scenic tour of Rhebokskloof Private Cellar in the foothills of Paarl Mountain before enjoying a post-ride tasting or lunch. Owner Michelle Mazurkiewicz is an ex-SA showjumper and eventer and the superb horses complement her pedigree. Your mount, and the nature of the ride, is matched to suit your level of competence – even if you’ve never ridden before you can relax and enjoy the spectacular views in the knowledge that you’re in good hands. There’s also the option of a sedate ride in a horse-drawn carriage, quad biking, mountain biking, hiking and fishing on the estate.
The glorious wineland golf courses need no introduction,
but if you’re pushed for time you might want to try
Qolf – action, or short, golf. A round of fast play around
Lindhorst Wines near Paarl leaves you plenty of time
to sample their wines, country cuisine and cellar tours.
The course is acclaimed as the finest in the country – but
the good news is that you need neither be proficient in the subtleties of the game, nor in golf etiquette. So turn
up dressed in casual attire, pick up your pitching wedge,
balls and bottle of wine and head out. When the time
comes for you to play your stroke, you simply rest your
glass on one of the conveniently located barrels near the
tee or green.
There is, however, a challenge for the experienced
golfer: if you manage to chip the ball through a
ring about 20cm off the green, a bell rings and a waitress
runs out onto the course with a tray of shooters for you
to celebrate!
Another unusual adventure on offer in the winelands is kloofing (known as canyoning to the rest of the world), which involves abseiling, rock jumping, pool crossing and bum sliding as you follow a river down its course. If a scenic hike through the fynbos, some scary waterfall abseils and long swims sound like fun, check out Quantum Adventures’ new trip through the dark, tannin-stained waters of the Wesselsgat Gorge near Grabouw, or join Frixion Adventures in the Smalblaar Canyon in the Limieteberge. But if you want seriously high jumps – and I mean seriously high jumps of up to 22m – then Abseil Africa’s Kamikaze Kanyon near Gordon’s Bay is a serious adrenalin rush. Rather you than me.
As you hike in the Paarl Mountain Reserve or drive through Cogman’s Kloof just outside Montagu, you’ll probably hear cries of “on belay” or “ready to climb”. The human flies hanging onto the sheer cliff faces look impressive, but in fact both these areas are sport climbing or “bolted” areas where beginners and pros alike test their skills. If you’ve got your own gear, rock up at Montagu’s Legoland – one of the best crags in South Africa and a great spot if time is limited because you can park 30 seconds away. Alternatively, contact nearby De Bos – they’ll provide the equipment and tailor-make guided climbs to your requirements or simply rent you the gear.
Weather dependent but high on thrills is tandem paragliding. The top of Sir Lowry’s Pass is a dramatic launching site – once your feet leave the ground you can relax and enjoy a bird’s eye view of the winelands as your experienced pilot works the controls. Equally intoxicating is a scenic flight in a glider – take off from Worcester and enjoy swooping silently over the ordered rows of vines and the rugged Du Toitskloof mountains. And if you’ve got bucks to burn and want the thrill of a lifetime, there’s always a supersonic flight in a fighter jet from Thunder City, situated at Cape Town International Airport.
More sedate adventures include Umkulu’s wine tasting trips on the Breede River near Worcester. The river is slow and sluggish on this section so it’s more of an excuse to get on to the water and enjoy the birds, some local wines and a fun picnic than a serious paddle. And instead of simply watching the whales from the coastline around Hermanus you can hop in a sea kayak with Walker Bay Adventures and head out into the marine sanctuary for a couple of hours of mingling with Southern Rights, humpback whales, dolphins and seals. There are also boat cruises with Ivanhoe Sea Safaris or Dyer Island Cruises that go as far as Seal Island – the hunting ground of the great white shark. Not far away is Gansbaai where, if you’re feeling really intrepid, you can jump in a cage to view the apex predators, but that’s generally a full-day outing – and besides, the viewing is much better from the boat.
And finally, there are few pursuits more guaranteed to put you in the mood for a lazy day of fine wine and cuisine than the gentle art of casting a fly. Permits for trout fishing in many of the rivers of the winelands are available through CapeNature, but if time is short head for the well-stocked dams of the Du Toitskloof Resort near Worcester or Oak Lane Cottages near Grabouw and fish for your supper.
Contact information:
• Abseil Africa tel 021 424 4760 or
visit www.abseilafrica.co.za
• CapeNature tel 021 659 3500 or
visit www.capenature.co.za
• CapeXpectations tel 021 851 2785 or
visit www.capexpectations.co.za
• De Bos tel 023 614 2532 or visit www.debos.co.za
