WINE magazine TOPS at SPAR Sauvignon Blanc Top 10 for 2008

As the Sauvignon Blanc category continues to expand, there is an increase in different styles available, but which one will predominate? Christian Eedes reports.

In 2007, WINE magazine’s usual annual Sauvignon Blanc category review doubled as the inaugural TOPS at SPAR Sauvignon Blanc Top 10 Awards, and, with producers not charged to participate, a line-up of 112 wines was assembled.

 

This year we implemented an entry fee of R200 per wine and, despite this, the number under review jumped to 186 – there can be no doubt that Sauvignon Blanc is the white variety of the moment.

The essential charm of Sauvignon Blanc is not difficult to understand: it possesses purity of fruit and lively acidity, making it obvious and unthreatening to the novice wine-drinker. It typically doesn’t command too much of a price-premium and, furthermore, is unobtrusive and refreshing when served with food, ideally suited to lighter, healthier dishes. The ultimate upper middle-class wine, you might say. That said, it would be simplistic to think of all examples of Sauvignon Blanc as wholly interchangeable: as with all varieties, the site of the vineyard and the approach in the cellar have an effect on the resulting wine.

Sauvignon Blanc might well be divided into two sub-groups, the first being “grassy” and the second “fruity”, and it is interesting to contemplate which has the greater consumer following and why.

In the case of “grassy” examples, there are two reasons a wine might present like this. Firstly, it might be from grapes grown in a warm climate harvested under-ripe to preserve flavour and resulting in a wine showing a whack of acidity. These can have appeal in the same way as Portuguese Vinho Verde, being very fresh but somewhat insubstantial. A more legitimate rendition of “grassiness” is Sauvignon Blanc from cool-climate growing areas (such as Constantia, Darling, Durbanville, Elgin and Elim), which typically has bright acidity but also lots of juicy fruit. Wines in this style in this year’s top 10 include David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner 2008, Graham Beck Pheasants’ Run 2008, Rietvallei Special Select 2008, Strandveld 2008 and Tokara Elgin 2007.

Then we come to “fruity” Sauvignon Blanc. This again comes from grapes that are grown in cool climates, leading to massive amounts of flavour precursors that, through shrewd winemaking (the application of the appropriate yeast strain), present as tropical fruit rather than herbaceousness. In this year’s top 10, this richer style is represented by Kleine Zalze Family Reserve 2007 and 2008 as well as Kumkani Lanner Hill Single Vineyard 2007. Delayed picking also helps the development of riper, tropical fruit flavours as well as softer acidity, a boon for those who usually find Sauvignon too tart.

Mention should briefly be made of the impact of bottle age. There are many who contend that, unlike more noble varieties, Sauvignon Blanc does not gain greater complexity over time, and rather goes into a slow degeneration, with whatever flavour characteristics it showed originally simply becoming more exaggerated. This is a little unkind as, at the very least, older Sauvignon does achieve a little more richness, typically showing flavours of asparagus and canned peas. Among this year’s top 10, both the Diemersdal Single Vineyard 2007 and Woolworths Reserve 2007 (Groote Post) reveal the benefits of not drinking Sauvignon too quickly.

As to what style will prevail, it is becoming increasingly fashionable among more snooty wine commentators to talk down those examples that are grassy and fresh on account of these being excessively simple renditions of what is a simple grape to start with. It has to be conceded that among the more herbaceous offerings, there are too many examples where the acidity is no longer “crisp” but “searing” but it would be my contention that Sauvignon which is too rich and full is a contradiction in terms. There are plenty of other white varieties that do the job much better.

The top 10 (in order of ascending price)
Diemersdal Single Vineyard 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Forthcoming nose shows asparagus and some musky notes.
Rich and full on the palate, balanced by fresh acidity.
Long finish. Drink now or over the next year.
CE 17 LS 15.5 RP 18 GdF 15 JP 14.5

Rietvallei Special Select 2008*
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Luminous in colour.
Forthcoming nose shows grassy notes and asparagus.
The palate is rich and full with a range of flavours from herbal to tropical fruit.
Poise thanks to lively acidity. Drink now or over 2 years.
CE 18 LS 15 RP 15 GdF 16 JP 16

Tokara Elgin 2007*
CELLAR PRICE: R75 Lime on the nose and palate.
Great fruit purity and fresh acidity. Long dry
finish. Drink now or over the next year.
CE 17 LS 15 RP 15 GdF 16 JP 16.5

Strandveld 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R85
Complex nose shows dusty notes, cut grass and
asparagus. Expressive, concentrated palate with
fresh acidity. Drink now or over 2 years.
CE 17 LS 16 RP 17 GdF 16 JP 15

Woolworths Reserve 2007
(Groote Post)
retail PRICE: R89.95
Dark in colour. Dusty notes as well as a hint of
asparagus on the nose. Rich and full on the palate
but balanced by lively acidity.
Drink now or over the next year.
CE 16 LS 16 RP 17 GdF 16 JP 16

Graham Beck
Pheasants’ Run 2008*
CELLAR PRICE: R95
The nose shows dusty as well as herbaceous notes.
Very expressive palate with lots of juicy fruit,
pepper and fresh acidity. Long, dry finish.
Drink now or over 2 years.
CE 17 LS 16 RP 16 GdF 15.5 JP 17

Kumkani Lanner Hill 2007
the company of wine people
PRICE: R95
Asparagus and some musky notes on the nose.
Ripe and full on the palate. Opulent style appears
slightly sweet but good line of acidity
offset this. Drink now.
CE 16 LS 16 RP 15.5 GdF 15 JP 17.5

Kleine Zalze Family Reserve
Sur Lie
2007 CELLAR PRICE: R100
Green pepper and herbaceous notes on the nose.
Good palate weight with a range of flavours,
from herbaceous to tropical fruit.
Still very fresh – long, dry finish.
Drink now or over next year.
CE 18 LS 15.5 RP 17 GdF 15.5 JP 17.5

Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Sur Lie 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R100
Forthcoming nose shows tropical fruit and some musky
notes. Rich and ripe on the palate but balanced by
tangy acidity. Drink now or over the next year.
CE 15.5 LS 16 RP 16.5 GdF 16 JP 17

David Nieuwoudt
Ghost Corner 2008*
CEDERBERG PRICE: R115
Nose shows dusty notes as well as pepper and
asparagus. Palate is very herbaceous with bracing
acidity. Also lime fruit. Drink now or over 2 years.
CE 16 LS 16 RP 15.5 GdF 16 JP 16

ALSO FOUR STARS
Cape Atlantic 2008*
CEDERBERG PRICE: R30
Lime on the nose and palate. Juicy and fresh – very
appealing. Drink now or over the next year.
CE 17 LS 15.5 RP 16.5 GdF 15 JP 15

Fort Simon 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R50
Herbaceous notes as well as limes on the nose.
Lean and tight on the palate with bracing acidity.
Finishes very dry.
CE 16 LS 14.5 RP 16 GdF 15.5 JP 16.5

De Grendel Koetshuis 2008*
CELLAR PRICE: R75
Nose shows dusty as well as herbaceous notes. Great
precision on the palate – lime fruit and bright acidity.
Elegant and medium bodied. Drink now or over 2 years.
CE 17 LS 15 RP 16 GdF 16 JP 15

Table Bay 2008 (Ultra Liquors) ARP R28.99
Alexanderfontein 2008* (Ormonde)R32
Arniston Bay Reserve 2008* R40
(The company of wine people)
Kumkani 2007* (the company of wine people)R47
First Sighting 2008* (Strandveld) R55
First Sighting 2007* (Strandveld) R55
Avondale 2007* R56
Boschendal 1685 R56
Grande Vin Blanc 2008 ARP
Groote Post 2007 R57
Clos Malverne 2008 R58
Zonnebloem Limited Edition 2008 ARP R58
Lourensford 2008 R60
Paul Cluver 2007* R60
Neil Ellis Groenekloof 2008* R65
Saxenburg Private Collection 2007 R65
Longridge 2007 R67
Hermanuspietersfontein No.3 2008* R69
Vrede en Lust 2008* R69
Cederberg 2008* R75
Spier Private Collection 2007* ARP R75
Boschendal R80.50
Reserve Collection 2007 ARP
Anura Reserve 2008 R85
Durbanville Hills Biesjes Craal 2008 R85
Zorgvliet 2008* R85
Rijk’s 2006 R90
Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection 2007* R110
Cape Point 2007 ARP R125
Nederburg Private Bin D215 2007 AW
Nederburg Private Bin D234 2007 AW

Welmoed 2008 (the company of wine people) R25
Bonnievale 2008* R25.50
Monterosso 2008* R30
Bon Courage 2008* R34
Rietvallei 2008* R36
Zandvliet 2008* R37
Dieu Donné 2007 R41
Under Oaks 2008* R41
Eikendal 2008* R42
Hazendal 2007 R43
Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection 2008* R44
Altydgedacht 2008* R45
Nelson’s Creek 2008* R45
Simonsig Sunbird 2007* R45
Tokara Zondernaam 2007* R45
Bottelary Hills M23 2007* R46
Bellingham R47.90
with a splash of Semillon 2008* ARP
Mooiplaas 2007 R48
Bilton 2008* R48.50
Haut Espoir 2007 R49
Fort Simon 2007 R50
Meerendal 2007 R52
Sterhuis 2007 R53
De Grendel 2008* R55
GlenWood 2007 R55
Hillcrest 2007 R55
Spier Vintage Selection 2008* ARP R55
Morgenhof 2008 R56
Groote Post 2008 R57
Jordan 2008* R58
Havana Hills 2008* ARP R60
Hillcrest 2008* R60
Ormonde 2008 R60
Graham Beck 2008* R64
Buitenverwachting 2007 R65
Buitenverwachting 2008 R65
Mount Rozier 2008 R65
Saxenburg Private Collection 2008 R65
Zevenwacht 360° 2007* R65
Bouchard Finlayson Walker Bay 2008 R68
Hidden Valley 2008* R68
Plaisir de Merle 2008 R70
Groot Constantia 2008 R72
Southern Right 2008 R75
Tokara Walker Bay 2007* R75
Creation 2008 R79.50
Cape Point Stonehaven 2008 ARP R80
Fleur du Cap Unfiltered 2008* R80
Nederburg Manor House 2008 R80
Steenberg 2008* R80
Boschendal R80.50
Reserve Collection 2008 ARP
Diemersdal 8 Rows 2008 R85
Lomond Pincushion 2008* R86
Woolworths R89.95
Limited Release 2008 (Cape Point)
Diemersdal MM Louw 2007 R90
Rijk’s 2007 R90
Des Dieux 2007 (La Vierge)R105

Rockfield 2008 (Du Preez) R19
Rooiberg 2008 R22
Du Preez 2008 R25
Slanghoek Private Selection 2008 R26
Fish Hoek 2008* (Flagstone) R29.99
Eagles Cliff 2008* R30
Perdeberg Reserve 2008 R30
Bergsig 2008 R32.50
Stellenbosch Hills 2008* R33.25
Douglas Green 2008* ARP R34
Indalo 2008 (Swartland) R37
Vredenheim 2008* R38
Neethlingshof 2008* R40
Uitkyk 2008 R40
Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2008 R40
Miravel 2007 R40
Diemersdal 2008* R42
Brampton 2008* (Rustenberg) R43
Le Bonheur 2008 R45
Linton Park Private Bin 177 R45
Slangrivier 2008 ARP
Robertson Retreat 2008* R46.90
Onyx 2008 (Darling Cellars) R49
Dornier Cocoa Hill 2008* R50
Hathersage 2007 ARP R51
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2007 R52
De Wetshof 2008 R53
La Motte 2008 R53
Deetlefs 2008 R54
Hartenberg 2007 R54
South Hill 2007* R55
Thelema Sutherland 2007* R55
Villiera Traditional Bush Vine 2008 R55
Dalla Cia 2007 R57 Elgin Vintners2008* R58
Hermanuspietersfontein No.7 2008* R59
Sir Lambert 2008 R65
Durbanville Hills Rhinofields 2008 R65
Neil Ellis Elgin 2008* R65
Land’s End 2008* (Hidden Valley) R68
Waterkloof Circumstance 2007 R68
Diemersdal Single Vineyard 2008 R70
Rickety Bridge Paulina’s Reserve 2008* R75
Iona 2007* R85
Crios Brìde 2008 R85
Lomond Sugarbush 2008* R86
Allée Bleue Sauvignon Banc 2008 AW

Lutzville 2007* R21.60
Perdeberg 2008* R23
Hill & Dale 2008 (Stellenzicht) R25
Wellington Cellar 2008* R25
Lyngrove Collection 2008* R26
Badsberg 2008 R26
Darling Cellars Bush Vine 2008* R30
Koopmanskloof 2008* R32.75
Leopards Leap 2008 ARP R34.99
Durbanville Hills 2008 R42
Barton 2008* R45
Danie de Wet 2008* (De Wetshof) R45
Raka 2008 R45
Simonsig Sunbird 2008* R45
Quando 2008* R47
Signatures of Doolhof 2008* R48
Ken Forrester 2008* R50
Lords 2008* R50
Arendsig Single Vineyard 2008 R55
L’Avenir 2008* (Laroche) R55
Meerendal 2008 R60
Nitida 2008* R65
Oak Valley 2007* R69
La Vierge 2007 R75
Vergelegen 2008* R75
Benguela Cove 2008 R79
Woolworths R89.95
Reserve 2008 (Groote Post)
Vergelegen Reserve 2008 R145

Swartland 2008 R22
Versailles 2008 R29
Goede Hoop 2008 R43
Noble Hill 2008 R44
Lomond 2008* R49
La Vierge Temptation 2008* R60
Lanzerac 2008 R60
Ross Gower 2007* R60
Woolworths R69.95
Limited Release 2008 (Nitida)

also tasted
Groot Eiland 2008 R22.50
Ingwe 2008* R28
Kango Winery 2008 R30
Kloovenburg 2008* R49

tca
Weltevrede The Travelling Stone 2007 R47
Nederburg Manor House 2007 R80

PRICES: Wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price –
all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

ARP Approximate retail price
AW Auction wine
* Bottled under screwcap

Wine tasters: WINE magazine editor Christian Eedes (chair) (CE), Ernie Els
winemaker Louis Strydom (LS), Wine Tasting Academy graduate Roland Peens
of Wine Cellar (RP), Cape Wine Master Ginette de Fleuriot (GdF) and Wine
Tasting Academy graduate James Pietersen of Vineyard Connection (JP)

BEST VALUE – TOP 10 sauvignon blancs on price

Wines rated 2½ Stars or better and recommended for particularly good value on the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price per bottle of the 186 wines assessed, excluding auction wines:

Are you getting what you pay for?
Average price/bottle of the 186 Sauvignons assessed, excl auction wines: R57
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 13 wines rated 4 Stars: R80
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 27 wines rated 3½ Stars: R67
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 57 wines rated 3 Stars: R60
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 86 wines less than 3 Stars: R49