Why Plett is attracting wine lovers
Children of the sun
Plettenberg Bay is known as a property hotspot for St. Tropez-tanned immigrés. Recently, however, a few intrepid souls have begun planting vines - even on polo fields. Jeanri-Tine van Zyl takes a trip up the Garden Route to investigate.
First we hear rumours of vines being planted at South Africa's favourite seaside destination: the Garden Route is adding another drawcard - wines - to its already long list of attractions.
Watching from a distance, our curiosity turns to interest when Plettenberg Bay receives Wine of Origin status. Then a Sauvignon Blanc Cap Classique is disgorged, a maiden vintage of Sauvignon Blanc is bottled in Harkerville, and polo fields are replaced with vineyards next to the Bitou River.
These, combined with an increase in alerts about climate change and its impact on the world wine map, warrant a trip up the coast. Personal investigation is needed. Are our winelands slowly moving site?
Armed with an itinerary promising to lead to interesting discoveries, I accelerate from Cape Town to Plett on a drizzly Wednesday morning. The N2 bends and cuts through a selection of geographical, agricultural units; from the rows of fruit orchards in the Grabouw area, through the corn fields at Caledon, to the sparse plains of Riversdale and Albertina - fast forward to the Garden Route where roads are flanked by indigenous forests, river mouths and sea.
For its enthralling beauty, its penetrating mystery and its sad, sore history of destruction at the hands of selfish men, this stretch along the eastern coastline is enough to incur a bowed-head mentality - we don't deserve paradise while still living.
A local tells me of a visitor who, upon laying eyes on the beauty of the region, remarked that this was paradise. The local agreed that it was like living in heaven. "You must have died early then," the foreigner chirped back. How true. But what would the afterlife be without wine?
My wine discovery begins at Herold Wines, bordering the Outeniqua Mountains close to George. Run by Vivien and Bruce Harpur, this winery is known for its Black Sheep Pinot Noir 2005 that unsheepishly made its presence known when it rated 4 Stars in WINE magazine in 2008. The winery has since continued making a name for its feminine Pinot Noir wines - regard that is not without merit.
The Harpurs recommend taking the Montagu Pass (as opposed to the modern Outeniqua Hop) to reach their establishment, and duly arm visitors with an itinerary to facilitate an informative trip over the mountains. Built in 1844 on the instruction of the Cape Colonial Secretary, John Montagu, the pass was completed in 1848 under the supervision of engineer Henry Fancourt White.
The route is still dotted with reminders of early engineering and explorer days, and is therefore definitely the scenic option. Stone bridges and buildings add architectural interest while the quiet, unspoilt road evokes feelings of isolation and an accompanying closeness with the landscape.
I pause at the Keur River Bridge, to frame mentally a romantic sight that's worth every narrow bend one has to negotiate along the gravel road...
Herold Wines is situated not far from this bridge. Therefore, if you plan to visit the tasting room, a day trip of the old pass is highly recommended.
The feminine touch at Herold Wines
Modest and off the beaten track, Herold Winery is as unpretentious as its owners. Vivien Harpur did not plan on becoming the winemaker, viticulturist, farm and marketing manager of a working winery when she "inherited" the farm from her brother Mark Chandler. "It was Mark's dream to grow Pinot [Noir] in 1997, but when he set up family in Johannesburg, I became responsible for it [the farm]."
From casual caretaker to full-time owner, Harpur gives the impression of being a wide-eyed, but dedicated, winemaker. Those more recently growing wine, closer to the coast, might boast that winemaking is easy here, but Harpur has learned better. She comes across as a woman with intense respect for her job. Her eagerness and feminine touch are evident in her wines - once again in the latest Pinot Noir offering, and in a Sauvignon Blanc that is not half bad.
Other plantings at the foot of Cradock Peak (the highest in the Outeniqua range) include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Chardonnay, but operations remain particularly small. Three fermentation tanks and a few barrels complete the boutique cellar that also doubles up as the rustic tasting room.
Teeing off at The Goose
Situated next to Herold Winery is The Goose, co-owned by golfer Retief Goosen. Separated by the Outeniqua Mountains from the coastal vegetation, the stretch of road leading from Herold to Ganzekraal is typically Karoo. There are ostriches doing one-leg yoga poses, with some daringly pecking off pebbles from the road (be warned when driving here) and the landscape is dotted with Karoobossies - this is just a small detour off the R62, after all.
Co-proprietor and winemaker Morné Jonker describes this as "a wild, healthy part of the world" and ascribes the success of the wines to three elements: cold temperatures, cooling wind and high altitude.
The Goose wine farm has enough green to stand out like an oasis in the parched landscape - literally - the main attraction apart from the wines being the "Altitude T Box" overlooking the vines. How about teeing off before having a kuier at the stone-enclosed braai area while enjoying the farm's wines? The best thing is that there is a guesthouse on the premises, so you don't even have to drive home and evade the ostriches...
Country charm at Packwood
I cross back over the mountain to reach my first overnight destination - Packwood Guest House, situated outside Knysna on the brink of the Garden of Eden.
Here Vicky and Peter Gent hold fort at their English country house establishment where they treat visitors with typical rural familiarity. Genuine folk who easily trigger a chuckle, the Gents eagerly share their dreams and ideals for brand Packwood.
Never mind the forest-lined guest house, or the cheese and other dairy products made from milk provided by their herd of cattle - this year the maiden vintage of Packwood Sauvignon Blanc made it into bottle. "We would like to sell ourselves as a brand," says Vicky Gent, showing me the as-yet-to-be-developed premises where they plan to erect a tasting room and minicellar. She admits that it's early days but, like their maiden wine, the Gents promise to deliver.
In the future, Gent, who currently assumes position as viticulturist and wine manager, would ideally be more involved in the winemaking process too. For now, Teddy Hall makes their wines, with grapes rushed down the N2 in cooling containers to his cellar in Stellenbosch. Not optimal but preferable, it seems, to making use of an upcoming working cellar at The Crags (an area just outside Plett). The Gents are "distancing" themselves from the other emerging Garden Route wineries - saying that when the novelty wears off, they still want to be on the scene.
Very pleased simply to focus on their individuality, they have plenty to be proud of in terms of uniqueness. Developments are impressive, according to winemaker Hall, who adds: "Vicky looks after her vines like an English dame looks after her rose garden - those are truly very good grapes."
Polo, Bramon bubbly and "Baron" Thorpe
I am told that Peter Thorpe of Bramon Wine Estate started campaigning for vines to be planted in the Plettenberg Bay area some time ago. It's something he has actively explored since 2000; one which, in his opinion, could only lead to success. In an unguarded moment, he compares himself to a modern-day Jan van Riebeeck. But he's being modest - with his long curls and pioneering efforts, he is Van Riebeeck incarnate.
Promising step-by-step guidance and cellar facilities in the starting-up years, Thorpe envisages a co-working camaraderie between emerging vintners. It just so happens that he co-owns a company called Bramon Viticulture Supplies that provides all the material needed to assist novices as they embark on their wine growing path...
The result is that numerous young vines, mostly Sauvignon Blanc, are now eagerly being planted by those "looking for something more glamorous than cattle farming", says Thorpe. More glamorous than horses, even, given that one new "wine farm" next to the Bitou River has converted its polo field into a vineyard after a run-in with local municipality.
With Thorpe encouraging the creation of a bubbly route along the coast, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also upcoming varietals.
Bramon up at The Crags is taking the lead on this front by producing South Africa's first (and only) Sauvignon Blanc Cap Classique. A venture, Thorpe admits, to being lifestyle driven: "What better combination than polo and bubbly?" The obvious problem being that the production of Cap Classique requires extreme technical skill - which none of the new growers has. I pose the question and get the usual names quoted in winemaking or consultation capacity: Pieter Ferreira (Graham Beck), Gyles Webb (Thelema) and Teddy Hall (Teddy Hall Wines).
Ferreira assisted Bramon with earlier vintages, making the wines in Graham Beck's Robertson cellar, with Hall taking over in 2008 and 2009. "It's a runaway commercial success," Hall says of the Bramon Cap Classique, adding that 2009 sees an end to his involvement. Anton Smal from Villiera will be making a permanent shift to Bramon next year, not only to assist Thorpe with winemaking, but other wineries too... For the rest, help is just a 021-dialling code away - though, as Thorpe notes, the winelands are moving away from 021 areas, with vines being planted in Mossel Bay, St Francis Bay and even surfing capital Jeffrey's Bay...
Emily Moon
Overlooking a wetland of winding canals, with scribblings of a pining explorer to his beloved posted everywhere, Emily Moon is well suited to the romantics of this world. It is owned by Mark and Di Valentine and decorated with African and Indian artefacts that they have collected on their travels - so that visitors here might feel that they, too, have travelled beyond local borders.
Like that pining explorer, I too urge you to visit the wetlands at Emily Moon to dream a bit. From the crisp whitewashed room interiors and balconies with cane furniture, to the main entrance where carved woodwork and stone gods greet visitors, Emily Moon truly offers a make-believe step outside South Africa.
On the sundeck, Indian garden umbrellas provide an exotic ambience, definitely hitting the note as a sexy sundowner spot. To make the most of the evening, diners at Emily's are encouraged to arrive early and start off with drinks here - the winelist offers wines well suited to the setting - before proceeding to the eclectic restaurant. Chef Larry Steenkamp informs me that his menu undergoes regular tweaks in an attempt to offer meals that reflect seasonal flavours. Judging from the patronage, Steenkamp has a respected reputation with locals as well - the restaurant is filled to capacity.
I gleefully tuck into the recommended cartoccio (a wrapped prawn and mussel Mediterranean dish tossed with linguini), and am not disappointed. A glass or two of Springfield Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 and conversation on the deck conclude a tasteful experience. When I retire to my room, the honeybush and other fragrant growths along the pathways infuse the night with a smell like that of incense...
Tsala Treetop Lodges
On day two of my excursion, I book into Tsala Treetop Lodges, 10km outside Plettenberg Bay. Part of the Relais & Chateaux group, this establishment does well to deliver on all expectations of a five-star hotel. The name is inspired by the ruins of "an ancient sacred village...on the edge of a great valley", and it does feel like travelling back in time when you trapeze along the elevated walkways of the lodge. Enclosed by nature and sheltered from reality, Tsala offers a truly inspiring experience.The suites rest on wooden stilts and open onto a canopy of indigenous forest.
Whilst the afro-baroque interiors are lavish, it is the views that contribute to the lodge's exclusivity. Wild Sage, White Els, Cape Ash and Keurboom stretch widely into the distance and host a myriad birds and other wildlife. Showering underneath treetops at outdoor facilities feels wildly exhibitionistic and does wonders to further aid escapism.
There's an outdoor pool, allowing visitors to experience the forest in comfort in summer, while they can snuggle up next to the fireplace, aged brandy in hand, during the colder months.
Dining at Tsala
You have two dining options, the more formal option being Tsala's restaurant, which offers a set dinner menu and an extensive winelist, with wines drawn from the underground cellar. Less formal is Zinzi Restaurant, where chef Leigh Autef provides dishes that complement the Moroccan interiors of the establishment.
It is a promising menu, but unfortunately my dinner at Zinzi's is uninspiring to the point of being bland, and definitely not worth the price. The scenery is beautiful, however, and diners might be prepared to forgive them for not getting it right.
Where else to eat
Knysna and Plettenberg Bay overlap on the food front. Both destinations offer diners various eating options and since they really aren't that far apart, holiday-makers can easily drive between the two to satisfy all their needs. Here are a few places mentioned by all in conversation.
Knysna
Most locals referred me to Île de Pain on Thesen Island for its fresh bakes and great vibe. They do breakfasts and lunches, but be warned that this orange colour-coated venue closes at 15:00 daily. Tel 044 302 5707.
When visiting Knysna, you have to eat somewhere with a view of the famous twin sentinels. East Head Café, has recently undergone renovation and now boasts a boat-like interior with blue colour swatches complementing surrounds. Breakfasts and lunch, with Sunday brunch being especially vibey. Tel 044 384 0933.
Cornuti opposite East Head Café doesn't seem to impress locals much, although one local Italian described each visit as "a great addition to your life". Mostly pizza and pasta with some other options too. Tel 044 384 0408. (The Plettenberg Bay version, with its blue mosaic exterior, seems to attract a steady, seemingly more satisfied, crowd. Tel 044 533 1277.)
You can't miss the Firefly Eating House, painted red, just before you enter Knysna - apparently they make the best Asian food on the Garden Route. Tel 044 382 7259. If you are looking for a true forest experience visit Tottie's Eatery for burgers (Tel 044 389 0200) and take a walk to writer Dalene Matthee's Memorial at the Big Tree. Conclude with tea at Mother Holly's Tea Garden where the cheesecake is a must-try (Tel 082 734 4552).
For fine dining visit Zachary's at Pezula (Tel 044 302 3333) or The Orchid Room at Simola (Tel 044 302 9600).
Plettenberg Bay
Fushi in town offers sushi as a highlight and has attractive modern interiors. Don't visit when in a hurry as service can be very slow. Tel 044 533 6489.
The Lookout Deck used to be the main watering hole after a day on the beach, but then came the massive flood of 2007 which washed away Lookout beach and altered the scene. It's still a good spot to chill, though, as you now sit right next to the water. The pint of prawns comes highly recommended. Tel 044 533 1379.
Le Fournil is a hidden-away deli in town and offers excellent food with a winelist to match. Tel 044 533 5899
Everybody heads out to Enrico's on Keurboom beach as the sun starts to set. Not only because of its setting right on the beach, but also because you are most likely to spot a pod of dolphins surfing the waves. Tel 044 535 9818.
At Bramon Wine Estate at The Crags you can enjoy a range of tapas as prepared by Caroline Thorpe. There is little to beat the ambience of sitting among vines while feasting on the generous portions. The best lunch in town! Tel 044 534 8007.
