Winemaking in KwaZulu-Natal

Not far from South Africa's playground, Durban, lies a valley of fertile slopes, sugar cane, mist and rolling green pastures.

It is a scene effectively captured by the opening sentence in Alan Paton's Cry the Beloved Country: "There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hills are grass-covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it." And although this is not Ixopo, the hills here, short of Pietermaritzburg, are every bit as evocative and beautiful.

The magnificently beautiful Karkloof Falls.

 

Born in that same town, Paton must have accumulated an intimate knowledge of these very surrounding valleys, inspiring his poetic prose. One can't help but see the world in verse when travelling here. In your mind you might hear Paton reciting "... and from there, if there is no mist..."Except here, if there is no mist, it is the majestic Inhlazane peak that reveals herself, showing the whole valley her "maiden's tit".

This is the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, a place of beautiful names, nguni herds and the secret rituals and legends of writer Credo Mutwa. It is where Shaka led armies to battle; where Nelson Mandela was captured.

But it is neither history nor beauty that is the primary reason for my visit to this part of the world. It's wine. In 2001, vineyards were planted in KZN in what was described as a "trial run" to investigate the plausibility of growing and making wine in the region.

Approximately 4 000 vines were distributed among prospective growers in an experiment led by Dr Clive Kaiser, a horticulturalist for the KwaZulu-Natal Department of Agriculture at Cedara.

Eleven participating farms were cited as growers and ambitions were of rural development projects, further expansion of vineyards and subsequent wine production. Success proved dismal, and under the guidance of Kaiser, new trial vines were established at Bracken, a farm in Greytown.

In 2002, Rob Osbourne took over responsibilities from Kaiser, continuing to promote the wine-growing industry in KZN with trial plantings of grapes in various pockets scattered across the Midlands.

The possibility of establishing KZN as a wine-growing region attracted other interested parties to the Midlands who individually started to explore the viability of making and producing wine in a former non-demarcated Wine of Origin region.

In 2010 there are a handful of growers in KZN, but two producers are recognised as major players: Abingdon Wine Estate and The Stables Wine Estate.

It's a humid day as I set off to traverse the Meander. It is foggy and drizzling lightly, and I can't see Inhlazane. This is typical Midlands weather, and while being conducive for certain agricultural produce like avocados and sugar cane, these climatic conditions hamper wine production in the area.

Mist and humidity breed fungus, or downy mildew, which impacts considerably on berry ripening and sugar levels. Grapes from vineyards infected with the fungal disease would typically produce insipid wines that lack body.

Add to this hail and non-climatic challenges like gluttonous monkeys and pesky birds and you can't help but wonder why the residents of the area bother to produce wine at all - especially since all conversations indicate that the venture is yet to become economically viable.

Start-up and protective spraying costs, coupled with boutique-scale production and a saturated market, don't exactly contribute to settling the bills. (Ian Smorthwaite, owner and winemaker at Abingdon, reveals that in Abingdon's first year, production cost per bottle was R800.)

And yet, the enthusiasts here are adamant that they want to continue on their winemaking journey. It's an admirable ambition, and maybe not that far-fetched as a food and wine match at Granny Mouse Country House and Spa reveals.

There have been changes to the old Granny. New owners Mark and Gill Wood took over the property in February this year, and chef Leanne Roberts left the kitchen in the very capable hands of Lerique Allers. It's a big shift, as this country establishment has won recognition in food circles as a gourmet destination - an expectation Allers delivers on humbly and effectively.

He prepares a well-thought-out fivecourse meal matched with wines from Abingdon, knowing the winemaker will be in attendance to scrutinise every bite.

"I apologise for my hands," says a tired Ian, upon arrival at Granny Mouse, gesturing to his stained hands. "I scrubbed, but I can't seem to get them clean." Ian, it becomes clear, is a meticulous, eager winemaker.

Despite it already being mid-April, Jane and Ian are still busy harvesting their Shiraz grapes - longer ripening periods being one of the key differences between Cape and KZN growing conditions.

We commence the evening with a course of baked carpaccio of home-cured salmon matched with Abingdon Sauvignon Blanc 2009. The delicate flavours of the dish mimic those of the wine which, in itself, introduces a surprising start to the dinner.

A definite cool-climate wine, the Sauvignon Blanc oozes minerality with the palate showing some viscous character with evident, but balanced, acidity. Not bad. Not bad at all.

It hasn't been a conventional journey for the Smorthwaites. Wife Jane was a touring ballerina when she met Ian, then an oil prospector, in a bar in Singapore.

Their voyage first led to Johannesburg before they returned to Jane's ‘roots' in the shadow of Inhlazane where they embarked on "the biggest money-wasting venture we've ever been involved in!" laughs Jane.

The first vines at Abingdon were planted in 2004, and the maiden harvest of Sauvignon Blanc took place in 2007. "There were times we thought we lost it," Jane sighs. A "hailstorm from hell" hit the Midlands that year and, although others suffered major damages, not one hail stone struck the Abingdon vines.

Miracle wines they may be, but Ian ascribes his luck to other things. "I ask two questions of any would-be winemaker. ‘Do you go on holiday?' If the answer is yes, I say, ‘Don't plant.' Then I ask, ‘Are you religious?' If the answer is no, I say, ‘Find a religion.'" And after that hailstorm, laughs Ian, he can't help but be sensitive to the whims of the gods.

Word of Abingdon's wines has reached the Cape, with Klein Constantia's Adam Mason, who has done some non-official consulting on the farm, commending the produce from this winery. He refers to Ian as a "true vigneron" and finds the fact that they manage to produce elegant, low-alcohol wines particularly intriguing.

Indeed the wines in the Abingdon range are not big blockbusters - but they are worthy of an audience. The Sauvignon Blanc, the Viognier, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon are all gracious, delicate wines.

The team's dedication is evident on all fronts. Ian and Jane run a laudable establishment, with immaculate vines, a neat cellar and a genuinely beautiful tasting room echoing the finesse of their range of wines.

But all is not well on the Meander...Abingdon Wine Estate, together with other winegrowers Happy Springs, High-gate Farm, Indigo Fields and Meineke, are members of the Midlands Winegrowers Association, headed by Sarah Allen. (With the exception of Abingdon, the viability of other growers is yet to be established.

Piggly Wiggly Wines from Rudi Kassier's Highgate Farm, for example, should rather be viewed as a garagiste operation than a fully fledged winery, while the vines at Cedara, managed by horticulturist Osbourne, are merely for trial purposes.)

The Stables, owned by Tiny and Judy van Niekerk, which is affiliated with the KZN Winegrowers' Association (of which Judy is the chairperson) is in the rival camp.

These two associations are at loggerheads following a legal dispute between parties from both these organisations. During 2008 the Van Niekerks sued the Smorthwaites for defamation.

According to local newspaper reports, the Van Niekerk's claimed R550 000 for damages, alleging that the Smorthwaites "defamed them by making statements... claiming that the grapes used are not KZN grapes". The Van Niekerks lost the case with costs.

Tiny and Judy van Niekerk were unable to meet with me at the time of my visit, preferring telephonic and email interviews to a one-on-one conversation. Viticulturist Daniel Maerkl also opted not to speak with me when I visited the farm.

It has, however, been confirmed that The Stables indeed hasn't always made use of locally sourced grapes (even though labels in their range might suggest otherwise).

Stellenbosch winemakers, whose names are known to WINE, confirm that wines - Rosé, Chenin, Tawny Port, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc - were sold in bulk to The Stables in 2006 and 2007. Some of the varietals were made into the red blend ‘The Time Is Now' released by Judy and Tiny to commemorate the Rugby World Cup in 2007.

Although Tiny takes credit for making this wine (which was also awarded a Bronze Veritas medal), the Veritas office quotes a different wine farm as producer. (Tiny also confirms that they did buy in wine from the Western Cape during the farm's start-up years.

He adds that the necessary Wine of Origin information was printed on the back labels of these wines. Labels in The Stables range carrying information pertaining to the wine's production area, variety and vintage would also indicate the corresponding Wine of Origin information on the back label. Therefore, you won't find any information indicating the wine's origin on the farm's Tawny NV, for example.)

A drive out to The Stables in Nottingham Road reveals a rather dismal set-up. Marketing from The Stables refers to "vineyards stretching out across the old racehorse paddocks and pastures...", but these vines, some eight hectares in total, appear haggard and sparse - the result of that massive hailstorm, I am informed.

The ‘cellar' conditions are equally puzzling as most of the operational equipment in use, like vats, plastic bins and stainlesssteel tanks, are kept under, and next to, a marquee tent; a working environment, which, according to Judy, "works quite well".

Not so conducive for cellar hygiene however - I step on a decomposing bird lying between the bins. Funding received from Gijima KZN, a local economic development programme set up by the KwaZulu-Natal government and funded by the EU, to the value of R3.8 million, has apparently not gone into building a proper cellar.

"It has gone into planting additional vines at Nottingham Road, the training of staff and buying equipment for the cellar," says Judy.

Currently the Van Niekerks also manage 19 hectares of vines in Greytown, which deliver the crop of their wine production. Tiny states that total production stands at 100 000 bottles and he hopes to increase the total bottling as soon as yield improves.

The Stables also plan to release a Méthode Champenoise-style wine. However not all of their wines have yet received SAWIS (South African Wine Industry Information & Systems) certification as, according to Judy, SAWIS feel these wines still lack "cultivar characteristics".

Which begs the question: why not focus on raising the standards of current production before embarking on further ranges?

It is another wet day as I leave the Midlands, with Inhlazane hidden behind cloud. As the rolling hills disappear in my rear-view mirror, I can't help but think that the KZN wine route has its own mountains ahead - but I also know that somewhere near Curry Post Road an ex-ballerina is dancing to the whims of her customers in a tasting room while a winemaker prays for the weather gods to spare his vineyard from hail. And that is beautiful beyond any singing of it.

WHERE TO STAY AND PLAY
Karkloof Spa Wellness & Wildlife Retreat Just 24km from Pietermaritzburg is Karkloof Spa, the Midlands Meander's most luxurious offering in terms of ambience and relaxation.

Here, wildlife roam freely between luxury suites, unperturbed by the presence of humans or cars. Rhinos sleep in the driveways that lead to staff cottages and hornbill cry in stereo from acacias.

Everywhere you turn there is the sound of water, with the main lodge looking down over the Karkloof Valley towards the magnificent 105m Karkloof Falls. It is a healing environment and the obvious location to have a spa.

Not just any spa, Karkloof Spa runs one of the best in SA. Last year it was a finalist in the annual Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Awards. Competing in the Safari Spa Category, Karkloof was praised for its personalised, luxurious offering.

The spa offers a selection of therapies and, in line with its authentic approach, Thai therapists apply a selection of exotic treatments, of which the signature Thai Yoga Massaga and Karkloof Aroma Thai Massage comes highly recommended. I opted to revitalise with a treatment called ‘Asian Art' which incorporates massage techniques and cleansing rituals from Thailand, Bali, India and China.

And while the care and expertise of the therapist was evident, the experience is made all the more memorable by views of the African bushveld from where a male Njala plays spectator to my every move in the room.

At Karkloof rejuvenation does not end in the treatment room. Dining options include raw food choices for further promotion of health and wellbeing.

Although room rates at Karkloof might be a bit steep for some, visitors can still experience Karkloof as a day visitor to the spa - which includes a game drive to the spa, full access to hydrotherapeutic areas and spa cuisine of your choice. (Tel 033 569 1321, www.karkloofspa.com)

Granny Mouse Country House and Spa
You'll find Granny Mouse Country House and Spa in the Balgowan Valley, on the R103 in the Midlands. The setting is immaculate, and due to its tucked-away location the establishment permeates calm.

This is one of the Midland's prime eating spots with menu choices being refreshingly more upmarket than what you'll find on offer at most of the other local haunts.

The property also boasts an impressive cellar where private dinners are sometimes hosted. Chef Lerique Allers is very capable and a dab hand at preparing the complementary tasting menus for which the establishment has become particularly famous for. (Tel 033 234 4071, www.grannymouse.co.za)

Abingdon Wine Estate
Sleep among vines at Abingdon Wine Estate in a charming selfcatering unit. Stroll through the beautiful garden down to the establishment's cosy tasting room for freshly roasted coffee and pastries. Or, as per suggestion of the owners, "stroll back up to the cottage after a delicious lunch and a bottle of Abingdon wine". (Tel 033 2344335, www.abingdonestate.co.za)

More on the wines
Due to small-scale production, you'll find the respective KZN wines exclusively sold ex-cellar.

The Stables has recently launched its Airport Cellar at Durban's new King Shaka International Airport, where it will also be selling its produce. At Piggly Wiggly Wines, Sunset, Phantom, Golden Breeze and Moonwalk are available from on-premises Meander Fine Wines liquor shop. Sauvignon Blanc is definitely the flagship varietal in KZN.

My favourite wine of the trip was Abingdon's Sauvignon Blanc 2009 - which, unfortunately, is already sold out from the farm. For more on wines from the Midlands visit www.winemag.co.za