Varandas
Published: 01 May 05
Category: Portuguese
Perhaps it is the fact that Varandas has taken over Mole Cottage, in the verdant grounds of the club, that makes me think the new century has finally dawned on Inanda. Superla
tive cuisine, a good - and affordable - wine list, and a general
sense of bonhomie are breathing life and spice into these old bones.
Although the Varandas décor still shows hangovers from its previous incarnations - chintz, paintings and prints from precious to passable - the beauty of the place lies in the fact that rooms are available for private functions or high-level mealtime meetings. There is a fabulous fireplace for cosy winter dinners, with wide doors and windows opening onto a friendly outdoor area for al fresco summers.
Mozambique-born Pedro Silva and his drop-dead charming wife, Charlmein (who runs front of house), used to serve their Mozambican-infused Portuguese cuisine to the folks at the Wanderers Club. They not only have 20 years' experience to bring to the table, but also boast their trump card in chef Antonio Boavida, whose CV includes bona fide training in Portugal and a stint as personal chef to former Mozambican president Samora Machel.
Expressing an intense dislike of "designer cuisine", Pedro Silva says the special edge to the food at Varandas is the result of a no short cuts approach. Everything is freshly made, including all the stocks they use, with the magical Portuguese trilogy of white wine, fresh fish stock and paprika always to hand.
One of my favourite starters is the Chilean salmon, chilled and served in a lime, olive oil and coriander dressing (R37). The succulent calamari tubes, lightly grilled in a finger licking lemon butter sauce (R24,95), is as irresistible. The prize starter, though, is the Caldo Verde, the classic Portuguese potato-based green soup that consists of cabbage, olive oil, Chourico Assado and a touch of garlic (R24,95).
Mains of course feature prawns in abundance, from Prawns Mozambique A National (baked in bay leaves, garlic, lemon butter, Portuguese spices and beer) to prawn curry. Other seafood includes blackened kingklip, crayfish thermidor, crab curry, Cataplana (seafood casserole) and Espetada Do Mar Mista. Chicken is served trinchado, peri peri or lemon and herb, while meats include rump fillet, Portuguese steak (with white wine, garlic cream sauce and topped with a fried egg) and of course Espetada.
As for dessert - the meltingly sexy lemon meringue pie is a triumph.
Silva says his love of wine means that he doesn't collect; he drinks. So every single wine on the list has been tasted and enjoyed - and what I enjoy is that there are no inordinate mark-ups. The house wine changes often, depending on what bargains he's been able to find, and this also applies to the rest of the list, which boasts popular quaffables as well as what he calls "Pedro's Bin" - from Rust and Vrede '95 to Simonsig Pinotage '98 at R60.
Silva says that taste and quality are paramount. It shows in what they're doing at this family-run place with its very personal touch.
Average three course meal: R95 - R100.
Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Booking advisable.
Perhaps it is the fact that Varandas has taken over Mole Cottage, in the verdant grounds of the club, that makes me think the new century has finally dawned on Inanda. Superla
Although the Varandas décor still shows hangovers from its previous incarnations - chintz, paintings and prints from precious to passable - the beauty of the place lies in the fact that rooms are available for private functions or high-level mealtime meetings. There is a fabulous fireplace for cosy winter dinners, with wide doors and windows opening onto a friendly outdoor area for al fresco summers.
Mozambique-born Pedro Silva and his drop-dead charming wife, Charlmein (who runs front of house), used to serve their Mozambican-infused Portuguese cuisine to the folks at the Wanderers Club. They not only have 20 years' experience to bring to the table, but also boast their trump card in chef Antonio Boavida, whose CV includes bona fide training in Portugal and a stint as personal chef to former Mozambican president Samora Machel.
Expressing an intense dislike of "designer cuisine", Pedro Silva says the special edge to the food at Varandas is the result of a no short cuts approach. Everything is freshly made, including all the stocks they use, with the magical Portuguese trilogy of white wine, fresh fish stock and paprika always to hand.
One of my favourite starters is the Chilean salmon, chilled and served in a lime, olive oil and coriander dressing (R37). The succulent calamari tubes, lightly grilled in a finger licking lemon butter sauce (R24,95), is as irresistible. The prize starter, though, is the Caldo Verde, the classic Portuguese potato-based green soup that consists of cabbage, olive oil, Chourico Assado and a touch of garlic (R24,95).
Mains of course feature prawns in abundance, from Prawns Mozambique A National (baked in bay leaves, garlic, lemon butter, Portuguese spices and beer) to prawn curry. Other seafood includes blackened kingklip, crayfish thermidor, crab curry, Cataplana (seafood casserole) and Espetada Do Mar Mista. Chicken is served trinchado, peri peri or lemon and herb, while meats include rump fillet, Portuguese steak (with white wine, garlic cream sauce and topped with a fried egg) and of course Espetada.
As for dessert - the meltingly sexy lemon meringue pie is a triumph.
Silva says his love of wine means that he doesn't collect; he drinks. So every single wine on the list has been tasted and enjoyed - and what I enjoy is that there are no inordinate mark-ups. The house wine changes often, depending on what bargains he's been able to find, and this also applies to the rest of the list, which boasts popular quaffables as well as what he calls "Pedro's Bin" - from Rust and Vrede '95 to Simonsig Pinotage '98 at R60.
Silva says that taste and quality are paramount. It shows in what they're doing at this family-run place with its very personal touch.
Average three course meal: R95 - R100.
Open Tuesday to Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner and Sunday for lunch. Booking advisable.
By Gwynne Conlyn
Address: The Inanda Club, 1 Forest Road, Inanda, Sandton.
Tel: 011 883 0588.
Food: 4.5
Wine list4
Ambience: 4
Service: 4.5
Value: 5
