Twists and turns along Bainskloof Pass
THE ROUTE:
A 45-minute drive out of Cape Town, along the R44, will take you to Wellington. Turn left onto the R301, then right at the traffi c lights into Church Street and follow the R303 heading up over the pass, which leads to Wolseley. Once at the pinnacle of the pass, turn around and head back down to Wellington and onto Bovlei Road.
BAINSKLOOF PASS:
Named after famous road engineer and geoloigist Andrew Geddes Bain, Bainskloof Pass runs from Wellington, scaling the Limietberg Mountain, to Ceres, northeast of Paarl.
The story of its construction dates back to 1840 when John Montagu and Andrew Geddes Bain discussed the need to improve communications with the interior of the country. Guided by Johannes Retief of Welvanpas wine farm (a farm still in the Retief family today – that’s the Retiefs of voortrekker Piet Retief fame…), Bain headed out on foot through the parts that could not be traversed by wagon, assessing areas with possibilities of development. The work was, however, of great engineering complexity. Bain described the landscape as “repulsive and savagely grand”. “For the fi rst three miles we had nothing but crossing and recrossing the river and climbing up the mural banks at the risks of our necks, so gloomy was this place, there is a perfect absence of animal life.” Nine years later, in February 1849, Bain began construction of the pass, using convicts as the main source of labour – up to 450 prisoners at a time.
The pass was opened in September 1853 and, after a few minor improvements including a tarred surface in 1934, became a South African national monument in 1980. Considered to be the magnum opus of Bain’s career, the winding pass’ total length is 30km with its highest point peaking at 595m.
FIRST STOP: BOVLEI WINERY
Bovlei (tel 021 873 1567), the secondoldest co-operative winery in South Africa, just outside Wellington, at the foot of the pass, is a fi ll-your-boot tasting experience. Frequent specials keep regular wine buyers coming back again and again – at the time of our visit, the farm was selling a small selection of overuns for R10 a bottle – this thanks to wine-producing members who supply approximately 9 000 tonnes of grapes to Bovlei annually. With everything from Pinotage and Merlot to Gewürztraminer and Special Late Harvest (as well as box wines!), there’s something for everyone at very reasonable prices. Among these wines is also the co-op’s Shiraz, a consistently good performer in Wine magazine’s Shiraz Challenge. Olives and dried fruit are also for sale.
SECOND STOP: NAPIER WINERY
Further along the R303, follow the dirt road to the right leading to the small but modern tasting room of Napier Winery (tel 021 873 7829), perched above the road, with striking views. Like the town of Napier, the winery is named after past Governor of the Cape, Sir George Napier. The present owners bought the land in 1989 and replanted extensively, also adding the winery, maturation cellar, tasting room and boardroom over the years. The entire range of wines, from the entry-level Lion Creek red and white blends, through to the newly released St Catherine Chardonnay and the Sir George Potstill Brandy are available for tasting.
THIRD STOP: OUDE WELLINGTON
Back on the pass and a little further ahead take the turn-off to Oude Wellington Wine and Brandy Estate (tel 021 873 2262). Tastings are conducted in the Cape Dutch manor and include the farm’s Chardonnay, Blanc de Noir, Currant Abbey (an anagram of Ruby Cabernet), Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and potstill brandy. After sampling the estate’s wares, settle in at one of the restaurant tables beneath the trees. An ever-changing blackboard menu tempts with options such as grilled sirloin with chocolate chilli and brie, and a biltong, Port and roquefort soup.
FOURTH STOP: TWEEDE TOL
Head further up the pass and stop at Tweede Tol campsite, part of a vast 117 000ha of mountains, wildlife and fynbos, which makes up the Limietberg Nature Reserve. The site was built in 1851 when Bain moved his camp in order to start work on the remaining, more diffi cult part, of the pass. Day visitors are welcome to enjoy picnics and swim in the Witte River swimming holes, but be sure to book in advance to access the hiking trails (tel 021 659 3500). If you have more time on your hands, take a drive through the reserve where you’ll spot dassies, klipspringers, baboons and even the occasional caracal and leopard.
FOURTH STOP: REDEMPTION LEATHERS
Unless you plan on driving all the way to Wolseley, on leaving Tweede Tol head back down the pass in the direction of Wellington and, just before reaching the town, turn right onto Bovlei Road. On your left-hand side be sure to stop at Redemption Leathers (021 873 3197). The store is known among locals for its well-priced hand-crafted leather goods at reasonable prices, including shoes, belts and briefcases. In season and on weekends the store gets very busy so prepare to elbow your way to your pair of sandals.
FINAL STOP: BOSMAN FAMILY VINEYARDS
From Redemption Leathers set back on Bovlei Road and follow the signs to Bosman Family Vineyards (tel 021 873 3170). The farm is open to guests by appointment only, but do make the effort to call ahead and book, particularly to try the Chenin Blanc and Adama, a blend of Shiraz (85%), Mourvèdre (10%), Primitivo (3%) and Viognier (2%).
The farm values social upliftment, so much so that 430 hectares of farming land has been transferred to the Adama Apollo Holdings, which is 100% owned by eligible workers on the farm. Conservation of the indigenous fynbos runs as a secondary goal as it strives to protect the natural vegetation of the land.
