Shaken, not stirred in Tulbagh
Shaken, not stirred
Eccentric Tulbagh is situated at the foot of the Witzenberg mountain range, just over an hour's drive from Cape Town. Having been shaken by a large-scale earthquake in 1969, the town has an interesting story to tell. Pour a glass and listen, suggests Jeanri-Tine van Zyl.
It's just after seven in the evening and Tulbagh is drenched in soft sunset hues. Outside, birds are making their collective roosting calls. Pheasant, guinea fowl and forlorn fish eagle cries harmonise as gently as the pianissimo sounds in a Saints-Saëns composition.
Here, now, with the winemakers sleeping before their midnight cellar activities, there is calm. Those who aren't asleep sit out on their porches and lift their glasses of wine to another day well lived. Few things beat enjoying the produce of the valley in this immaculate setting.
In the west, the Saronsberg mountain is changing colour. It almost looks as though it is burning, with the ridges of its majestic cliff face outlined in orange, the sky covered in clouds. It is as if nature is conducting an ironic replay of the past when an earthquake really did turn the mountain into a burning mass.
Like any traumatic event, the big earthquake of 1969 in many ways served as a catalyst that still defines the valley - from wine names like Seismic and Epicentre at Saronsberg Cellar to the vivid recollections of those who lived to tell the tale.
At approximately 22:00 on the 29th of September 1969, an earthquake hit the greater Ceres area, measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale. And although the damage was most extensive in Ceres, Tulbagh and Wolseley, some sources reveal that the tremors were felt as far as Durban.
Those who were closer to the plate activity vividly recall the effects of the seismic waves. "I thought an atomic bomb was dropped in Cape Town and what we were experiencing were the aftershocks," tells Nicky Krone, owner of Twee Jonge Gezellen wine farm outside town.
He had just returned from his studies in Geisenheim, Germany, and his recollections sketch a night characterised by overall confusion and chaos.
As with many houses in Tulbagh, the Twee Jonge Gezellen homestead had to be rebuilt - as did the Edwardian, Victorian and Cape Dutch houses in Church Street that today comprise the largest number of national monuments in one street.
Twee Jonge Gezellen/The House of Krone. Tel 023 230 0680
"Do you know that Cap Classique is infused with negative ions?" asks Nicky Krone during breakfast on the farm, with sons Luke and Matthew in attendance. We taste the full range of Krone Cap Classique wines, and in between making sensorial observations, the brothers and their dad get mock-philosophical.
"The northern wind is charged with negative ions, as is a waterfall, with these elements inspiring feelings of elation," adds winemaker Matthew. "The southeaster, on the other hand, is loaded with positive ions, and that's why everyone gets moody when it blows."
What follows is mischievous glints in eyes all around, with father Krone chiming in that Cap Classique wines should bear a warning label: "Choose your drinking partner well, as consuming this wine might cause unwanted pregnancy."
Many a true word is spoken in jest, for amid the jovial atmosphere it becomes clear that "passion for the product and the passion it creates" is really what drives the hands and minds behind Twee Jonge Gezellen/The House of Krone.
On a more serious note, Matthew explains that these negative ions are only found in Cap Classique wine after it has spent a certain amount of time on the lees.
Here all of the wines spend at least 16 months on the lees, ensuring that the required ion-charge has been acquired before bottling, which in turn results in wines of greater complexity as it aids mouthfeel (mousse) and allows for more developed flavours (brioche character and attractive nuttiness).
The House of Krone has become an established household name, and this year Twee Jonge Gezellen celebrates a familial legacy of 300 years - the only other wine farm in South Africa that can challenge this dynasty in years is Meerlust.
The Krone family bond remains strong, with winemaker and marketer not shy to sing the praises of their father who, in turn, credits wife Mary for her meticulous business acumen and dedication to the promotion of Cap Classique wines in South Africa.
The House of Krone recently released the Nicolas Charles Krone Marque1 in honour of granddad Nic, who was instrumental in making up the blend of premium vintages 2001, 2002 and 2003 before he passed away.
"Granddad's wine" was disgorged last year and is a standout example of a premium Cap Classique that can hold its own in the company of its French counterparts.
Krone sips and remembers: "When I just started making wine, I was sitting outside on the stoep with my father, tasting some of my first wines. ‘Something is missing,' I kept on saying, to which he replied by shaking his head and advising, ‘Don't force it, you forget that the man upstairs also likes making wine once in a while.'"
Rijk's Private Cellar. Tel 023 230 1622
It's just before midnight when a group of people wearing headlamps emerge from a shed. Snaking down to a block of Shiraz with their headlamps lit, the harvesters look like a swarm of human fireflies descending on the vines.
As at Twee Jonge Gezellen, harvesting at Rijk's takes place during the cool, early morning hours. The "fireflies" are harvesting at the new Rijk's Estate, which is where owner Neville Dorrington's focus is on Rhône blends only (as opposed to Rijk's Private Wine Cellar where a collection of different varieties are processed).
This venture is more "boutique" in its make-up with small-scale, hands-on production key to winemaker Pierre Wahl's gentle winemaking approach. Wahl is instrumental at both Rijk's Private Wine Cellar and Rijk's Estate, producing wines that are known for their ageing potential and panache. They are only released to the market when both he and Dorrington deem them ready for consumption "at optimum drinking potential".
The current range of wines (from the Bravado 2003 red blend to the Chenin Blanc 2007) show remarkable freshness and ample youthful character and are generally considered serious wines best accompanied by a decent plate of food.
Rijks Country House. Tel 023 230 1006
Situated on Rijk's wine farm is Rijk's Country House. As the name implies, Tulbagh's most luxurious overnight option resembles a cosy retreat rather than a lustrous hotel.
The thatched homestead is surrounded by white ring walls, gables, vineyards and pergolas, with guest cottages all boasting views of Saronsberg mountain in the distance.
The Iceberg rose gardens are in full bloom and it is therefore appropriate that the mini-bars in the luxury units stock the Rijk's Iceberg White - the perfect blend for sundowners on the private terraces.
The proprietors drew on the natural beauty of the region for inspiration and created an interior space that encourages calm - reinforced by squawking ducks and rustling vines. Colours are kept natural and low-key, with soft blue, egg white and beige dominating.
Rooms are clutter-free and spacious with furnishings focused on comfort - bedding cushy without being overwhelming; seating encourages leg-folded-under your-bum chats. But it's the bathroom that validates the five-star rating with its his-and-her design: double showers and basins that ensure hassle-free duo cleaning routines and a bathtub spacious enough to seat you and your partner...
Whether it's taking a jog between vineyards, a relaxing swim in the pool, a game of boules at the braai and lapa area, or a massage on your private terrace, the goal is not to feel rushed - and the same principle applies at on-premises restaurant Que Sera, where service is equally laid-back.
This relaxed attitude, commonplace at small town establishments, is not without charm, but unfortunately a line has to be drawn when holiday service simply borders on inattentiveness - my breakfast tray, for example, included cereal (but no milk) and a carafe of fruit juice (but no glass).
As this was merely placed down and I did not receive further attention, I could not even request these missing items. Fortunately the restaurant has enough appeal to make up for its slip in service. Gentle lime-greens dominate the interior with doors opening onto the Iceberg Terrace.
Big window means the friendly space is drenched in light and inviting. Patrons can taste wines from Rijk's Private Wine Cellar at the adjacent Polo wine bar before sitting down for meals, enabling diners to make informed food and wine matches.
During my dinner, I beg the waiter for the recipe of the richly flavoured gazpacho, and my heart melts with every bite of my main: a flaky fresh herb-crusted salmon trout with a lemon butter sauce that's really good - but great when matched with Rijk's Semillon 2005.
Where to eat:
Pielows in Church Street provides diners with generous country fare. The outside area is terraced and, from the lush bougainvillea and tree canopy, hanging faerie lights create a magnificently romantic setting. You might even want to entice your partner to a dance under the stars. Tel 023 230 0432.
If you are looking for a nook filled with inspiration, visit Things I Love, also in Church Street. The interior is an eclectic collection of art and bespoke items that spills out onto a balcony overlooking a garden in which peacocks dwell.
Peruse the menu for original breakfast and lunch options that include homemade pies and healthy cocktails. Tel 023 230 1742.
Paddagang Restaurant remains an oldtime favourite with traditional cuisine such as waterblommetjie bredie and bobotie. Tel 023 230 0242.
If you have a 4x4, you might want to travel up to Kimilili farm for their handcrafted cheeses (Tel 023 231 1503).
If not, taste the cheeses at Manley Wine Lodge and Cellar next to Rijk's Country House. Tel 023 230 0582.
For those with a sweet tooth, there is Moniki Chocolatier just outside town. Tel 023 230 0673.
