Township tastes

Whatever the textbooks tell us about town-planning terminology, South Africans generally use the words ‘township’ and/or ‘location’ to refer to those urban, residential areas allocated to black people during the apartheid era. While all such racist legislation has long since been repealed, the geographic realities of past regimes continue to colour the character of contemporary South African suburbs. Kasi (township slang abbreviation of location) culture is deliciously distinct from that found in other parts of our land. Restaurants, hotels, taverns and food stalls offer ideal opportunities to savour the unique flavour of township life. But how are inexperienced outsiders to tell the tourist traps from the authentic epicurean experiences? Clearly, the topic at hand is vast, but what follows is a gourmet guide to some of the best of kasi cuisine.

A marimba plays most Saturday afternoons at Mzansi.
Photographs by Toby Murphy and Lisa Johnston

 

GAUTENG

Meriting Ha Beauty
102 Mpitso Street, Katlehong, Nhlapho Section; tel 011 909 0273

Katlehong is approximately 35 kilometres from Johannesburg CBD. This East Rand township is probably best known for the political violence that engulfed the area in the early 1990s, but chef-patron Beauty Moholo’s 40-seater thatched eatery defies all such stereotypes. There are framed Coltrane posters on the walls, a dark wood bar and tables topped with vases of miniature pink roses.

The lunch menu (dinner is by prior arrangement only) offers a combination of Sunday lunch-style township comfort cuisine and steakhouse classics. My mogodu tripe was superbly tender while my partner’s beef ribs were get-sauceall- over-your-face fabulous. The wine list is almost entirely Nederburg and the company sponsors monthly wine tastings and weekend jazz sessions.

The venue’s distinctly feminine feel makes it an extremely popular choice for Mother’s Day, Valentine’s Day and Women’s Day when local stokvels make block bookings. And Nederburg presents a free glass of wine to every lady diner!

Mandela Family Restaurant
8116 Vilakazi St, Orlando West; tel 079 9110 439

All over the world sandwiches are regionally specific; New York has its corn beef-laden rye Reuben and the ‘kota’ is utterly essential to the Sowetan sense of self. Made up of a hollowed-out quarter (hence the name) loaf of white bread packed with polony, chips, atchar, cheese and often a fried egg for good measure, kotas are available all over Soweto but they reach their diet-crushing, heartburn inducing zenith at the Mandela Family Restaurant on the corner of Vilakazi and Ngakane street opposite the former President's previous home.

But be warned, given the famous family name, this restaurant can be a bit of a tourist trap...

Masakeng
649 Kinini Street, Mofolo Central, Soweto; tel 011 982 8034

When Soweto’s established, middle-aged elite are in search of a power lunch or dinner complete with fine wine, cigars, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs and superb security, they come to Godfrey Mautloa’s Masakeng in Mofolo, Soweto. Mautloa is a wine, beer and spirits connoisseur who has a long involvement with the Soweto Wine Festival and hosts the annual Soweto Beer Festival. Unsurprisingly, the wine list is thoughtful with local and international offerings to suit every budget, palate and occasion. Neither the finger-food platters nor the stews and steaks on the main menu are as impressive as the booze, but they are unpretentious and perfectly pleasant. Those visiting Masakeng must make sure to pop next door to Mnikelo Mangciphu’s Morara boutique bottle store (tel 011 982 2290). The shop takes its name from the Tswana word for grapes and the, by-invitationonly, on-site tasting room offers a heavenly mélange of Brazilian music, leather couches and fine wines.

Neh!
57 5th Avenue, Marlboro, Alexandra; tel 087 940 6652

Ten minutes from Sandton CBD, Neh! in Alexandra is the definition of kasi cool. First proclaimed in 1905, Alexandra is often referred to as ‘dark city’ because of the widespread absence of electricity but at Neh! the future is so bright that young, upwardly mobile patrons have to wear shades. And they do – there is no formal dress code but the bouncers at the door would frown on diners or dancers looking anything less than designer-clad, smart-casual. General Manager Mbopha Mashigo says, “Our clientele include actresses, politicians, businessmen. Last week we had three hip-hop artists from America.” The oh-so-Soho converted warehouse has a basement nightclub and shisa-nyama braai spot, a 150-seater restaurant on the first floor and a series of achingly elegant private dining rooms and meeting venues above.

Late afternoon sees the local business elite sitting out the Sandton rush hour on the restaurant balcony which provides panoramic views of the township. Chef Duma Sibeko serves tsutsumani chicken feet as bar snacks and the pork trotter platter arrives in a miniature potjie pot. Best of all are the retro-chic steamed puddings. In stark contrast to the soothing food, the wine list is an überostentatious romp through the likes of Moët Rosé Imperial, La Motte Millenium and Meerlust Rubicon.

Soweto Hotel
Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, Soweto; tel 011 527 7300

Lindiwe Sangweni-Siddo’s four-star Soweto Hotel on Freedom Square is built on the site of the Congress of the People where the ANC and its political affiliates gathered to draw up the Freedom Charter in 1955. The hotel foyer is lined with mosaics of South Africa’s most romantic struggle couple Albertina and Walter Sisulu and the bar is named after ANC stalwart Rusty Bernstein.

There are many good wine lists in Soweto but the Soweto Hotel has the only kitchen brigade attempting to move beyond the comfort food genre to translate the township flavour repertoire into a modern restaurant context. This is uncharted gastronomic territory and (as with all pioneering missions) not every effort is successful, but chef Jafta Hatshejame’s team are definitely on their way to becoming a Gauteng dining hot spot.

Start your evening with the hotel’s signature cocktail the Kliptini (homemade gemmer ginger beer and vodka). Move into the Jazz Maniacs dining room for the likes of ostrich garnished with lemon and courgette chakalaka. And be sure to end your meal with a maize meal angel food cupcake. The 80-seater restaurant has a small stage and regularly hosts local jazz musicians. Sadly, the wine list, while adequate, doesn’t replicate the kitchen’s culinary creativity.

Do stay the night because breakfast is a blissfully restorative morning-after-thenight- before affair and includes the likes of isibindi grilled liver, magwinya fritters filled with caramelised onions and umdoko millet porridge. Sweet dreams are made possible by way of 24-hour guarded, off-street parking and a bevy of discreet yet focused security guards.

Roots
1345 Makhetha Shopping Centre, Central Western Jabavu, Cnr. Mphuthi and Dimakatso Street, Soweto; tel 011 930 3752

One of Soweto’s ‘in’ spots. A lovely, stylish restaurant directly opposite Morris Isacson High School where there Soweto Uprising 1976 started. Also houses a beautiful designer furniture showroom.

Isolomzi Place
59 Hawthorn Street, Palmridge Katlehong; tel 082 507 8710

Serving traditional African cuisine, this is a particularly good venue for conferences or a big party.

Bolo's Place
Beacon Street, Kliptown; tel 084 330 0681

This restaurant is home to brilliant ‘kotas’ and its owner is able to offer terrific insights into the history of the Kliptown area.

KWAZULU-NATAL

Max’s Lifestyle
V1328, Mbe Road, Umlazi; tel 031 906 1393

Twenty-one kilometres south of Durban CBD and 41 kilometres from King Shaka Airport, Max’s Lifestyle in Umlazi is where KZN’s crème de-la-crème meet to see and be seen. The cars parked outside this upmarket club offer an eloquent statement in bling. The latest German sedans and SUVs are nose-to-tail with Porsche Cayennes and Lamborghinis. And the diners stepping out of the vehicles don’t disappoint – you go to Max’s to people watch – from the political chic of Julius Malema, Fikile Mbalula and Zizi Kodwa to the business kudos of Patrice Motsepe and the glitz of socialite Khanyi Mbau. It is feed-to-succeed central. Perhaps because of the powerful patrons, security is tight. Expect to be searched on your way into the club.

Once inside the double-storey face-brick building decor is über-opulent – think ceilings engraved with Queen Nefertiti graphics and glittering chandeliers. Owner Max Mqadi remarks that “we first operated as a butchery back in 1994 and people used to come here for shisa-nyama (braai/barbecued meat) after long sleepless nights of clubbing, but after the first democratic elections, I saw a gap... so I converted the butchery into a lounge, where people could meet and network”.

The menu reflects the venue’s origins with juicy steaks being the speciality of the house. Those keen to sample traditional Zulu fare should seek out the meltingly tender umgxabhiso (ox tripe), amadombolo dumplings and ujeqe steamed breads. French bubbles are the biggest sellers on Mqadi’s wine list with Moët and Dom Pérignon selling like hot cakes.

Be warned. Max’s is super popular – Sunday lunch starts at 13:00 and anyone who arrives late will struggle to find parking and/or a table. But don’t despair, the car park/queue vibe is as ebullient as the action inside and comes complete with drinks, dancing and a DJ!

Comfort Zone
48 Madondo Road, Clermont; tel 082 447 6683

Fusion and jazz music fans should head to Comfort Zone in Clermont, West of Durban. Never before has a venue been quite so aptly named. Khanyisani and Sikhulile Mazibuko have created a deeply comforting, yet classy, space replete with leather couches in which to savour the delicious combination of music, wine and fabulous food.

Dressing the part is non-negotiable. Sikhulile explains that “if you come in here between 09:00 and 18:00, it’s okay if you are wearing your sneakers and sandals, but after 18:00 we won’t let you in dressed like that. You need to look presentable. After all, it is all about elegance”.

The wine list reflects the upmarket connoisseur context. Champagne is well represented. Local offerings include Du Toitskloof Cellar Bukettraube, Diemersfontein Pinotage and Meerlust Rubicon 2007. Month end sees regular guided wine tastings. Come hungry because the tripe braised with garlic, ginger and cumin is spicy perfection. The deep, dense marinade on the sticky chickenwing starter will have you licking your lips for weeks to come. The side dishes of creamed spinach, mashed butternut and beetroot salad are just like mama used to make.

Uhuru Restaurant and Tavern
994 Zazi Road, Clernaville; tel 083 394 2040

Uhuru is Clernaville’s youth destination with most patrons being jeans and All Star tackies types. The eatery is 50 metres from the Top Rank taxi rank and most of the patrons arrive via public transport. The great strength of this venue is its food. Co-owner Nellie Nxele reckons that umgxabhiso ox tripe and amadombolo dumplings are the biggest seller, but the Friday hot wings special is also the stuff of local legend. Saturday brings a regular briyani night. Those looking for a gourmet good deal should note that, as manager Ntombi Mdoda says, “Every Monday we have ibhodwe (which means ‘pot’ in IsiZulu) where we prepare food for our clients and distribute it for free. It’s just showing a gesture and thanking them for their support. We make isigwaqana (sugar beans mixed with maize meal) and serve it with bones cooked to perfection, and chicken wings.” In addition to the ubiquitous Moët and Veuve, there are also many entry-level options such as 5th Avenue Cold Duck and Four Cousins.

Meat Cafe Restaurant and Bar
678 North Road, Clermontl; tel 0838543985

Although Meat Café doesn’t specialize in traditional African cuisine, it is a popular restaurant among locals for fast-food such as burgers and chips and vetkoek and mince.
 

CAPE TOWN

Mzansi Restaurant
45 Harlem Street, Langa, Cape Town; tel 021 694 1656

Langa, Cape Town’s oldest township, is fast approaching its centenary, and the community therein is considerably smaller and more stable than that of newer townships such as Khayelitsha and Gugulethu. The result is a relaxed and relatively gentle social space ideal for those unfamiliar with township dining.

Husband and wife team Nomonde and Ace Siyaka offer an up-market yet warm and understated eating experience from their converted family home. While foreign tourists take Nomonde’s guided (and guarded) walking tours of Harlem Street, the local business elite gather to savour the magnifi cent views of the township and Table Mountain and Nomonde’s fabulous food. The buffet-style offerings change according to season and the chef’s whim, but look out for the likes of chicken curry, creamed spinach, umbhako bread, umngqusho and umfino (mealie pap with leeks and spinach). Adventurous diners should phone ahead to order uPens tripe and uSmiley (sheep’s head). Sweet-toothed types rave about the trifle. The wine list is limited to one white and one red, but those wanting a more extensive selection can buy a bottle from the more extensive range on offer at Fanie’s Place, the next-door shebeen.

Lelapa
49 Harlem Avenue, Langa; tel 021 694 2681

Nextdoor to Mzansi restaurant is Lelapa restaurant, an upmarket venue that offers live entertainment and traditional cuisine.
 

Malibongwe
Cnr Mew Way and Spine Road, Khayelitsha; tel 021 361 6259

For those in search of a big-city buzz, Khayelitsha is the place to be. It comes alive on weekends with music blaring from the many shebeens and youngsters dressing up in preparation for the night of dancing ahead. While there is definitely more energy in Khayelitsha than in laid-back Langa, there is also more poverty. Driving into the township you are greeted by many kilometres of informal settlements.

Malibongwe restaurant is situated at Khayelitsha’s Look Out Hill, which the locals call Intab’etafile (Table Mountain) because once you climb all the 164 steps to the top of the sand dune, you have a spectacular view of the township, the Cape Flats, False Bay and a range of mountains, including the other Table Mountain in the distance.

Chefs Monde Sikhosana, Siya Futhe and Chris April open the kitchen at 09:00 and the morning treat of admiring the view while munching on the early-bird breakfast (two eggs, boerewors, mushrooms, toast and a mug of tea) is one of the best kept culinary secrets in Cape Town. Lunch and dinner treats include Cape classics such as lamb shanks with steamed amadombolo dumplings, tomato bredie and chakalaka and uPens tripe served with samp-stuffed vetkoek. The wine list is limited with JC le Roux and Robertson Chapel Merlot being the best sellers.

Sunday lunch comes garnished with live music and poetry performances from local young artists. Everything from jazz and opera to traditional Xhosa praise poetry, the vibe is that of a talent contest. (The youths perform for free in the hopes of being ‘discovered’ by a customer.)

Kwa-Mzoli
Shop 3 NY115 and NY108, Gugulethu; tel 021.638.1355

It is not out of the ordinary to see over 200 people at Mzoli Ngcawuzele’s shisa-nyama braai spot over the weekend and the end of the month can bring over 1 000 patrons! It’s the place where ordinary folk hang out with celebs, politicians, foreign tourists and the wabenzi business elite. Even celebrity chef Jamie Oliver is a fan, recently describing Mzoli’s as “sexy” and praising the “incredible flavour” of its grilled meat. Whoever you are and whenever you go, the tables hum with high spirits and the doef-doef soundtrack of the luxury cars parked outside.

This is no place for a vegetarian. Patrons select a meat, cut and pair it with starches including pap, samp and beans, dodorhoyi (steam bread) and amadombolo (dumplings). The diner then proceeds to the braai area, hands over the meat and is given a number. Depending on how many people are in the queue, a meal can take up to an hour. But it’s worth the wait – the quality of the steak is better than that on offer at suburban steakhouses – tender flesh, gently spiced, crispy fat edges and sauces that are glossy and dark.

March 2011 sees the inaugural Mzoli Wine Festival which has been timed to coincide with the Cape Town International Jazz Festival. Despite the festival, which takes place from 25 to 27 March, Ta-Mzoli (as the big man is affectionately called) does not sell alcohol on his premises. But just because you can’t buy booze on site doesn’t mean you can’t drink it. The neighbouring shebeen sells Nederburg Baronne, Nedeburg Rosé and Robertson Winery’s Chapel Red. It also stocks Amarula, Johnny Walker Red and Black, Jameson Whisky and plenty of ciders and beers.


Maphindi’s Butchery and restaurant
Corner of Emms Drive and Sibini Ave, Nyanga East; tel 021 386 0582
A shisa-nyama spot that’s popular with the locals, so rest assured you won't feel caught in a tourist trap. Here you can enjoy rice or pap with beef or chicken stew.