Stellenbosch the small town with the big heart
Free for all
Stellenbosch is the most celebrated district in South African winelands. Jeanri-Tine van Zyl visits this favourite spot for those driven by a need to explore all things beautiful, decadent and delicious.
Stellenbosch is a place of contradictions. It is a rowdy university town, crawling with barefoot students en route to lecture hall or bar; a town of Mystic Boers, enlightened gypsies, hausfrau 4x4 owners and mentors; a town of conservative reformed churchgoers, liberal freethinkers, rugby players and poets.
It is the place where apartheid was spawned and later vehemently opposed by students armed with spray paint; a town of segregation, transformation and integration. And it is exactly this contradictory diversity that gives Stellenbosch its appeal.
Of course, wine is the womb that birthed Stellenbosch, and it's still the beverage of choice - fuelling debates that lead to the reconciliation of groups, opinion and history, whether among students lubricating their thoughts with good old trusted Tassies in Bohemia, a wine writer and co scrutinising the contents of a glass in Pniel, or book club members discussing Eat, Pray, Love over a glass of John X Merriman in Paradyskloof.
The blue-eyed boy of the winelands over-delivers on enjoyment, with numerous wineries (148 at last count), spas, restaurants, coffee shops and bars in the town and its surrounds to inspire hedonism. Stellenbosch even caters for those with a more outdoorsy (some might say healthy) inclination by means of recreational activities of which picnics, hiking, jogging and mountain biking in the mountainous terrain are the most popular.
Writer and poet DJ Opperman was an Afrikaans lecturer at the University from 1960 to 1979 and celebrated the beauty of Stellenbosch in his poems. To be sure, there is ample that an artistically inclined person would want to praise: the Eerste River that cuts through the town, the streets shaded by oaks, the manor houses adorned with creepers, the surrounding mountains...
In his poem Grondstowwe by die siklus van seisoene, Opperman eulogises seasonal changes, referencing food and celebratory dishes. His writings are also included in So eet ons in Stellenbosch (The way we eat in Stellenbosch, Human & Rousseau, 1979) and although this book is now only available in Africana sections, good food has not been banished to the history pages.
It is still a defining characteristic of a town which is close to being saturated with eateries, more recently counting celebrities like Ernie Els and Minkie Visser among restaurant owners.
Because of the town's popularity among locals and foreigners, there's hardly a right time to visit to avoid tourist buses and clusters of milling travellers, but university holidays do afford local visitors some repose as students head home.
Where to stay:
If you do not want to be in the town centre that never sleeps, investigate the numerous other overnight options on offer in the Stellenbosch area.
Situated on the Devon Valley road, next to J.C. Le Roux and opposite Clos Malverne, the Devon Valley Hotel has just been named best South African hotel in the Best of Wine Tourism Awards on the basis that it provides visitors with a most comfortable means of having a true wineland experience.
Following an extensive revamp under ownership of the Louis Group, the hotel is now geared to receive visitors in an environment that exudes an oasis-like tranquillity. Shaded walkways are welcomingly cool on those typically hot and humid Stellenbosch summer days. The design of the hotel is of a quizzical sort. Almost Tudor, with a good dose of colonial influence, it is perhaps best described as eclectic.
Little impedes on the comfort, however, with each of the 50 suites decorated in line with the corner it is situated in.
From classic to executive and standard, rooms in the vineyard block are the ones to book if you like a more retro feel and want to be spoilt with vineyard-patched views of the valley.
If your room looks out onto a courtyard or pool, relax on the terrace where views are equally impressive. Don't feel like driving into town for dinner? Take a seat at on-site Flavours restaurant for meals that are just plain yummy.
The original building dates back to 1947, and grapes have been grown here since the 1960s. Today working vineyards still surround the hotel, and from these the SylvanVale series of wines are made.
Viticulturist Lorna Hughes, from Stonehill Wines, lives next door to the property, and visitors will often see her with Bristle, her crossbreed and the star of her own wine label trailing not far behind. The hotel is not pet-friendly but VIP Bristle, with a listing on the winelist, is happily allowed on the premises. Tel 021 865 2012.
CLOSER TO TOWN
Situated in the suburb of Paradyskloof is Majeka House. A boutique guest house with a 5-Star grading, it opened its doors in November last year and has since been building a database of return visitors.
It is all about leisure at Majeka House, and they do it exceptionally well. Relaxation is aided not only by the on-site Sanctuary Spa but also by the walkways flanked by rose gardens generous with their potpourri scent, water features and kick-your-shoes-off corners complete with brightly coloured scatter cushions. The restaurant's doors have also recently opened to the public (having previously been exclusive for residents only) inviting all to share in the luxury. Tel 021 880 1549.
Where to eat
Stellenboasch has a myriad eateries and coffee shops - and that is without counting the restaurants outside town. Listings of restaurants are widely available but these are a selection of favourites. Try to visit at least one of them:
For the most authentic Italian experience outside Italy, visit Pane e Vino at Bosman's Crossing. Run by Elena Dalla Cia, the daughter-in-law of boisterous Giorgio, ex of Meerlust, this food and wine bar is the place to try Dalla Cia's Grappa and own-label wines. It goes without saying that the food is incredible. Tel 021 888 4120.
For light meals infused with berries, take a turn at the Hillcrest Berry Orchards sign off Helshoogte Pass. Tuck into platters and drink in the views of the Banhoek Valley, then leave with your very own raspberry plant. Tel 021 885 1629.
De Oewer Restaurant is a firm favourite amongst locals. Dining on the banks of the Eerste River under the oaks just never gets tired. Tel 021 886 5431.
Adjacent to De Oewer is De Volkskombuis specialising in meals that remind you of ouma's kitchen. Tel 021 887 2121.
If you are into coffee conversation and generous meals then Beads on the corner of Ryneveld and Church streets is your scene. Grab a seat outside and sit and watch as time goes by. Tel 021 886 8734.
If you want farmstyle deli produce, visit Blue Orange in Dorp Street for delicious, well-priced lunches and breakfasts. Tel 021 887 2052.
The Big Easy wine bar at La Gratitude in Dorp Street is a big name eatery, referencing Ernie Els as owner and Johann Rupert, FirstRand CEO Paul Harris, Jean Engelbrecht (Cirrus, Ernie Els, Guardian Peak, Rust en Vrede) and Guiseppe Cuicci as partners. Interiors are sleek and sophisticated, and the winelist impressive. Tel 021 887 3462.
For beers on tap and a true Irish vibe, wear your party hat to Brazen Head next to other hot after-22:00 spots Bohemia and Mystic Boer. Tel 021 882 9672.
Must-visit wineries:
Rustenberg wine farm for show-stopper reds John X Merriman and Peter Barlow. Tel 021 809 1219.
Simonsig for South Africa's best Methode Cap Classique, Kaapse Vonkel Brut. Also try on-premises Cuveé restaurant. Tel 021 888 4900.
Hartenberg for picnics and a range of quality wines. The Shiraz is especially acclaimed. Tel 021 865 2541.
Renowned for Pinotage, Beyerskloof outside Stellenbosch runs a popular restaurant too. Tel 021 865 2135.
Tokara on Helshoogte Pass for exceptional wines and views. They've also recently opened a deli offering weigh-your-plate buffet fare for adults and a designer treehouse and play equipment for kids. Tel 021 808 5900.
SPA TREATMENTS AND WINE TASTING AT CLOS MALVERNE
Clos Malverne is a boutique wine farm owned by Seymour Pritchard with Charl Coetzee (ex of Kaapzicht) having recently joined the team as winemaker. Visitors to the farm can experience an intimate wine tasting of the farm's Cape Blends followed by a selection of treatments at the adjacent Clos Malverne spa. Tel 021 865 2022.
Outdoor activities:
Stellenbosch is surrounded by vineyards and mountains, making it especially suitable for outdoor activities. There are numerous on offer:
Villiera's safari drives offer a combination of wine and wildlife. Enjoy a tasting of Villiera Cap Classique before grabbing your binoculars for a two-hour game drive. R150 per adult and R75 for children. Tel 021 865 2002.
Take a full moon and sunset hike to the top of Klapmutskop. The hike takes you via a vineyard trail through a Renosterveld conservancy and yellowwood forest. Remember to order your picnic basket in advance for R90 per person. Visit www.dirtopia.co.za for a schedule.
Pick your own strawberries at Mooiberge Strawberry Farm or Polkadraai Farm Stall.
Numerous wineries offer hiking trails. Investigate options at Amani, Beau Joubert, Bilton, Bein, De Toren, Hartenberg Estate, Mount Rozier and Sylvanvale. For more information on Stellenbosch, visit www.wineroute.co.za.
Local food hero at Café Dijon
Once the flavour of the month and now a regular gathering spot for the foodie mafia, Café Dijon in Plein Street stands out as the must-visit spot in Stellenbosch - if for nothing else than Jason Lucas's Serrano ham, delicacies that hang from the ceiling in this French bistro.
The preparation method took Lucas 10 years to perfect and, "It is as authentically Spanish as it comes, he is a true food hero," brags owner Johan du Plessis. Tel 021 886 7022.
