The way of the women

THE ROUTE:

Meandering along ravines and rivers, tucked away in the Langeberg mountains, is one of the more under-appreciated routes in South Africa. Dotted with red aloes in autumn and cascading waterfalls in winter, in spring wild flowers dominate the spectacular scenery along the Tradouw Pass.

 

For an exquisite journey through the Klein Karoo, start in Swellendam and take the N2 towards Heidelberg. Turn off onto the R324 and head in the direction of Barrydale, turning left off the R324 onto the Tradouw Pass. Wind your way along the narrow road, which ends as it joins the famous Route 62. Turn left and then head to Montagu.

TRADOUW PASS:

It's believed the Khoisan were the first to discover this route that cuts through the Langeberg mountains. But it was in 1869 that work truly began on making the pass more hospitable to ox-wagons and carriages.

Engineer Thomas Bain, whose father Andrew Geddes Bain was responsible for the Bain's Kloof Pass, was commissioned with the mammoth task of planning and estimating. Convicts were brought in to do the manual labour and by 1873 the 14-kilometre Tradouw Pass was complete.

Years of use and flood-water damage took their toll and, in 1974, the pass was rebuilt, widened in places, hairpin bends removed and completely tarred. Fourthousand aloes and 2 500 indigenous trees and shrubs were planted and finally, in 1980, the Tradouw Pass was re-opened.

While the spelling of the name varies between ‘Tradouw' and ‘Tradauw' it is generally accepted that ‘tradau' means ‘the way of the women', which is believed to be derived from the Khoi words ‘tra', signifying ‘women' and dau, denoting ‘way through'.

FIRST STOP: SUURBRAAK

The colourful village of Suurbrak dates back to 1812. Although there is not much to do in the village itself, the drive along the two-kilometre main road, lined with quaint cottages, is a great photo opportunity with the imposing mountains as a backdrop.

SECOND STOP: ANYWHERE ALONG THE PASS

Take a break at one of the many viewing points and picnic stops along the pass and appreciate stunning views as well as the beautifully constructed dry-stone walls - a hallmark of Bain's passes.

There are said to be several caves with Bushman paintings in this area, but there are no signposts indicating their location. Perhaps this is a blessing in disguise, assisting to preserve the valuable rock art.

Third stop:
Joubert-Tradauw Private Cellar
As you reach the end of the pass, you can either turn right and head into Barrydale where the main road is lined with eccentric restaurants and craft stores, or you can turn left and travel a few more kilometres into Montagu, passing Joubert-Tradauw Private Cellar on your left. We opted for the latter option, and stopped for a tasting at Joubert-Tradauw (turn to Where it's at on page 34 for more).

Final stop:
Jessica's Restaurant
For a delectable lunch or dinner after your long drive, Jessica's in Montagu (pictured above) is a good option. The restaurant is located in a restored Victorian house and old books, antique furniture and beautiful works of art by local artists such as Ivy-Irene Blom create a cosy ambience.

The menu features good old Karoo favourites such as ostrich fillet and Karoo lamb and the wine list boasts a number of local highlights from the likes of Bon Courage, Weltevrede and Joubert-Tradauw.

The restaurant, run by owners Werner and Adele Joubert together with chef Heinrich-Werner, is small and intimate, but the grand old house has a marvellous sense of occasion and elegance. They also recently launched a sous vide menu, which is a must-try. (Tel 023 614 1805)