The splendour of Sir Lowry's Pass
The summit of Sir Lowry
The well-frequented pass heading out of Somerset West has a number of alluring wine farms and stalls to break the journey.
THE ROUTE
The passes of the Cape are remarkable for many reasons, not the least of which is when they literally connect regions that distinctly contrast with one other. And Sir Lowry’s is one of the best examples of this, winding its way up to Elgin which has that magical allure of an other-world feeling (even before drinking a few glasses of wine!). There is also much to be discovered within the heart of Elgin, along dirt roads and avenues less travelled, which require a further visit for exploring in their own right as off-the-beaten-track adventures within this fascinating region.
This is a purposeful drive into the region along the pass which becomes the main road into Elgin. Along the sweeping and breathtaking bends of Sir Lowry’s Pass, you will find one of those unrivalled views of the Cape. For here is a harmony of best-loved landscape elements in the seemingly endless sea horizons, backdropped by mountains, white beach strips, urban blocks and farmlands.
The summit of the pass is some 400 metres and embraces the whole of False Bay to the farming areas of Somerset West and the Eerste River Valley. You almost do not wish to leave behind this vantage point which allows for spectacular viewing on either side, before you are transported over to the ‘other side’, into the land of pine trees, mountain valleys and vineyards.
SIR LOWRY’S PASS
One of the main passes of the Cape, and certainly one of the busiest, with the passage of time it has seen the migration of wild animals, San hunters and, of course, the arrival of Europeans who formalised the passage over the Hottentots-Holland mountain range between Somerset West and Grabouw. A new pass was opened in 1830 and named after Sir Galbraith Lowry Cole, the governor of the Cape Colony at the time. Nowadays it can be subject to heavy traffic, so an early start is a good idea, as is the option of a scenic return via Sir Lowry’s Pass Village Road to avoid congestion.
There is a viewpoint at the summit, also known for use as a paragliding launch point. On the Grabouw side, the road passes Steenbras Dam. It is a further stark contrast of extreme mountain terrain with its indigo dam in the fore, dramatic enough that it makes you want to stop in your tracks and linger longer.
FIRST STOP:
Farm Stall Picks
The Orchard Farm Stall is prominent from the road with its rambling roses, a precursor to the sights of quaint farmland life that follow as we get further into apple-tree country, an historical essence for Elgin. There is the farm stall with arts and crafts, Wildekrans wine-tasting venue and a coffee shop complete with a bakery – all confectionary is baked on site and sampling the heavenly cheesecake among other delights is recommended (tel 021 859 5587).
Not so far down the road is an alternative stop at Peregrine Farm Stall (tel 021 848 9011), purveyor of quality homemade fresh farm produce and producer of apple cider. There is also a bakery and a wine-tasting area with varying producers afforded an opportunity to provide a sampling.
SECOND STOP:
Paul Cluver
Known as Elgin’s first family of wines since 1896, it was the first established wine cellar in the area. Originally an apple farm, many years of science, research and unaffected dedication have resulted in wines of a high calibre and reputation. Seeking to constantly refine and improve the wines has led to an elegant range of aromatic whites, including the rise of Riesling and the elegant Pinot Noir. It is definitely worth making a turn and taking the time to enjoy the farm, the wines and a tour with one of the colourful characters of the Cluver family (tel 021 844 0605).
The world-renowned wines are now complemented by a forest openair amphitheatre experience. Themed ‘seven concerts and seven wines’, the seating capacity of 600 seeks to avoid a mass crowd atmosphere.
THIRD STOP:
Thandi
Meaning ‘nurturing/growing together with love’ in Xhosa, Thandi was established in 1995 with the aim of empowering previously disadvantaged farming communities and is one of the real success stories.
The Fairtrade premiums and revenue generated goes toward adult education and has also seen the set up of a crèche for farm workers’ children. It is supported and mentored by successful fruit and wine producers, including the company of wine people, as well as neighbour Paul Cluver, and is now studied as a project by international operatives.
There is obviously a lot of passion behind this enterprise with the community being involved in the whole winemaking process, and this sense of ‘the people’ is somewhat captured on arriving at Thandi’s farm kitchen (tel 021 844 0343) where you can enjoy the stoep in summer or the cosy fireplace in winter. The wines range from sparkling to single and dual-variety blends; the Sauvignon/ Semillon blend stood out for its fruitiness as well as structure.
FOURTH STOP:
Waterkloof
A suggested return route (or alternatively outward bound route) is the Sir Lowry’s Pass Village Road near the base of the pass, which avoids the bottleneck of Strand and Gordon’s Bay. Along this bypass to Somerset West is the ‘conservatory’ of Waterkloof that almost feels airborne. It may appear obscure at first with the trek up the hill, but the glassed-in winery and restaurant provides a further rendition of encapsulating the view of all that the Cape can offer. The restaurant is one of the best in the area (tel 021 858 1491) and one feels suspended over the slopes of the Schaapenberg and Gordon’s Bay (see page 24 for pictures of Wine’s most recent function here).
The main philosophies at Waterkloof include whole bunch pressing, the use of gravity, embracing the idea of ‘slow wine’, and rather describing producers as facilitators in the making of wine. The Circle of Life blends reflect the totality of Waterkloof; the Circumstance Chardonnay is elegant, displaying mineral structure alongside a fullness of fruit flavour.
