A vertical tasting of Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) sparkling wines is fairly unusual. But highly gratifying for Johan Malan’s acclaimed Kaapse Vonkel, as a recent tasting showed progression through two decades of old and new vintages of his legendary wines. Reflecting back gave a clear definition of this style, with characteristics amplified through age, and greater insight into what it is capable of offering.

 

Johan commented that it is a fascinating style of wine to work with. Frans Malan, founder of Simonsig was the first producer of Méthode Champenoise in SA, pioneering Cap Classique in 1971 and putting it on the map along with the rise of the Stellenbosch Wine Route. Kaapse Vonkel was the first of its kind to use all three of the classic grape varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Johan’s father had travelled to Champagne, and on his return was determined to apply the style locally; a brave new venture at the time.

To date Simonsig produces some 250 000–300 000 bottles, a significant rise from 60 000–80 000 in 2001. Even though the new millennium celebrations were a kind of trigger point, the exceptional growth and rise in popularity has not affected the price levels which remain reasonable, for example, Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2008 (R82) and Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rosé 2007 (R88) – cellar price.

Cooler conditions, high rains, or even early summers are some of the vintage characteristics that can affect flavour. Locally, we have a similar climate to the Champagne region, but with more sunshine, so the fruit notes are therefore more expressive.

From 2005-2006 onwards grapes were sourced outside Stellenbosch due to a shortage of Pinot Noir; the areas of Elgin, Robertson and Darling also adding complexity. 2007 is thought of as an amazing vintage for white wines with its cool summer. 2005 was the smallest vintage but this meant ripe flavours and excellent quality. Another notable vintage was from 1992. Multi layers of freshly baked bread and ripe citrus fruits are subtly and smoothly integrated, and it is well balanced by the dosage to give an elegant finish.

The 2007 vintage is unfortunately sold out, a clear sign of its success, and older vintages such as the 1992 are available for vertical tastings at Simonsig. However, one can buy the 2005 vintage (winner of the 2009 WINE Magazine Cap Classique Challenge) at Simonsig’s Vinotique at the tasting room, R150 per bottle. This is a sparkling wine to keep your eye on.