The road less travelled

The road less travelled

Take the alternative Du Toitskloof Pass outside Paarl to combine good food with a beautiful drive. By Jeanri-Tine van Zyl.

THE ROUTE:
From Paarl over the old Du Toitskloof Pass to Du Kloof Lodge. To those visiting the Western Cape from inland, the last bend in the Du Toitskloof Pass signals the end of a long journey along the N1.

 

It is an impressive ending, with the magnificent Du Toitskloof mountains along the route and waterfalls cascading to the Berg River running below.

Travellers can opt to take the toll road via the Huguenot Tunnel or the old mountain pass, which is the more interesting option given the history of the road and its sheer proximity to the towering cliffs.

Of course the route isn't just an option for visitors to the Cape, as the stretch between Paarl and Worcester provides ample to explore.

HISTORY:
Du Toitskloof was named after French Huguenot, Francois du Toit, a farm owner in Daljosaphat (now called Dal Josafat) in the late 1600s and early 1700s. Before being completed in 1945, access to Paarl and beyond was gained via the Bainskloof Pass, near Wellington.

According to historical sources, some 500 Italian Prisoners of War provided the manual labour to complete the pass during WWII.

Some of these labourers erected a wooden cross on one of the highest peaks, the Huguenot Buttress, which can still be seen today (although the wooden T-shaped cross has been replaced with one made of stainless steel).

The old tunnel underneath the then notoriously dangerous Kleigat passage is also still in use and provides an interesting contrast to the 4.4km modern Huguenot Tunnel that was completed in 1988 due to the increase in traffic over the old route.

FIRST STOP: MARC'S IN PAARL
It's best to fill your stomach before the drive over the mountains, as you won't find any place en route to stock up your picnic basket - so pack one before you leave on your journey.

Otherwise opt to have lunch in one of the myriad restaurants in Paarl's Main Road. Marc's, a beautifully relaxing quarter in South Africa's longest main street (11km in total), is a spot favoured for its Mediterranean ambience and fine food. This restaurant, on 129-131 Main Road, offers a smorgasbord of delicacies.

The outside quarter calls for pre-siesta mezze platters matched with ouzo, pastis or a glass of arack (or some wine from the extensive wine list for the less adventurous diner).

The bald head of Paarl Mountain can be seen peering over the establishment's roof and sunbirds flit between flowers - making Marc's truly a hospitable, charming little place.

SECOND STOP: NEDERBURG
Before turning onto the pass, carry on Sonstraal Road towards Nederburg. Enjoy tasting some of SA's best in a setting that is reminiscent of a golden era - the Manor House standing like a grand dame amid acorn trees.

This winery excels on all fronts, and caters for various palates and pockets with a series of wines that includes nearly everything. That said, it is dessert and red wines that this winery is particularly good at - the farm's Edelkeur 2008 rating among the best in this month's category tasting.

The drive: Du Toitskloof Pass
The full drive is approximately 30km, and you will find the turn-off to your right just before the toll gate on the N1. It is the regional R101 between Paarl and Worcester and climbs to where the route culminates at 820 metres above sea level.

Proteas, majestic cliffs and clear waterfalls add to the beauty of the terrain, with views and lookout points providing numerous spots for picnics.

There are also hiking routes in the surrounds with the Elands River, Rock Hopper Trail and the Krom River day walk providing hikers with options. Visit www.trailinfo.co.za for more info.

Du kloof Lodge
If you don't feel like driving through to Rawsonville, Du Kloof Lodge is your end-destination. The log-cabin trout farm offers accommodation, bar and pool facilities.

Not a terribly exciting venue, this place is best visited for its on-premises wine shop, called ‘something to wine about'.

Here you can taste and buy wines made by the surrounding Breedekloof producers, or browse the adjacent art gallery for local art.

Open every day from 09:00 to 16:00. Call 023 349 1151 for more information.