The organic revolution

Talking about a revolution

There is an increasing movement among consumers for fresh, locally grown, organic produce. But is the alternative necessarily that bad?

Chef Lolli Heyns of Eight at Spier embraces farm-to-table principles.

 

It isn’t something we ever really bothered with. We never seemed to care about where our produce was grown and under what conditions. We didn’t ask about the manner in which cattle was being raised or the environment in which the chicken on our plate was bred.

Words like pesticide, herbicide, genetically modified, organic, free-range and biodynamic just didn’t mean much. Then bees started to disappear, and the fish stock got smaller, a US presidential candidate got onto the world stage to talk about global warming and mothers noticed that their daughters were growing breasts at age seven. Books like Cormac McCarthy’s The Road were made into movies, and documentaries about man’s destruction of earth became the new Hollywood fad. At this point in time there is a growing awareness among consumers that what we eat has far-reaching effects – not least of which is the impact on the environment.

Now everyone wants to drive a Toyota Prius to the closest farmer’s market, because green is the new black – but is it really? In the latest poll to be conducted on Wine magazine online, we asked readers to vote for their preference when it comes to organic food. Of those who voted, 42% said that they opted for organic produce as far as possible but weren’t rigid in their choice; some 56% said that they can’t be bothered whether their food is organic or non-organic; while a mere 2% said that buying organic food was a non-negotiable.

The truth is that, since becoming popular in the 1990s, the term ‘organic’ has been applied quite liberally to all kinds of concepts and practices, for many organic is the answer to saving the earth and beating health problems. But can organic foods really prevent cancer, are Endocrine Disrupting Chemicals (EDC) in conventionally farmed food really to blame for premature puberty in children and can organic farming slow down global warming?

The simple answer to these questions is that it is merely speculation. What I’ve discovered, after watching numerous DVDs on the subject and consulting various textbooks is that for every study supporting organic benefits, there seems to be a study contradicting its claims. Delving into the subject matter can become quite contentious – especially when one tries to summarise a web of interlinking ideas and arguments that are complex and expansive enough on their own.

Organic has become associated with concepts such as slow food, biodynamic, locally grown, natural and green, which makes the capturing of this term by means of definition and measurement a difficult task.

At its simplest, organic food is defined as produce grown without the use of pesticides and chemical fertilisers. Organic food also refers to the manner animals are treated, i.e. how they are raised and what they are fed. It is generally accepted that meat from organically raised livestock is free of growth hormones and antibiotics. It deals with the traceability of food and, in an ever-changing global community, seeks to support locally farmed produce.

For an increasing number of consumers it is not enough to eat meat, fish or poultry without knowledge of the farming practices – and rightly so. Supporters of organic food are driven by environmental, moral, health and/or sensory impetus – consumers opting to buy organic believe it has a positive impact on the environment, they support the just treatment of animals, value the nutritional benefi ts of organic products while also perceiving that organic produce tastes better. And, while there are scientists outside the organic community who dispute the validity of all or some of these claims, some of the facts are clear to see.

The link between organic food and the environment is obvious; these farming practices should comply with environmentally sound practices as stipulated in organic certification legislation. According to legislation body Afrisco, a farmer cannot be certified organic if farming practices don’t enhance biological diversity within the whole system or minimise the use of non-renewable resources for example.

And while much has been written to counterclaim the assertion that organic farming can slow climate change, the facts no-one can contest are that man-made chemicals kill, high-density farming practices are unnatural and, in an environment where natural resources are scarce, sustainable farming should be non-negotiable.

Studies have shown that organically grown vegetables and fruit are healthier as pesticides haven’t rid them of their nutritional value. A recent study, led by US professor of soil science John Reganold, found that organic strawberries beat conventional strawberries in quality. The former had increased antioxidants, vitamin C and total phenolics, the plants themselves were also healthier.

You don’t need to be a scientist to realise that fruit and vegetables grown in microbe-rich soil will be higher in nutritional value and that, from a toxicological viewpoint, produce that hasn’t been sprayed with pesticides is less harmful. Although some studies refute claims that organic produce is healthier, it would be difficult to prove that organically farmed produce is worse for your health than the conventional option. The same cannot be said of the opposite.

Many consumers’ purchasing decisions are influenced by moral considerations, and on the point of livestock there’s no debating the issue, organic livestock are reared under better, more natural conditions without the administration of growth hormones.

The situation at feedlots, which supply 75% of the country’s beef, looks somewhat different. As I was told by one state veterinarian doctor who wished to remain anonymous, “We cannot produce beef in South Africa without the use of hormones or without feeding our bovines grain. Without it production costs increase by one third – people cannot afford to pay 30% more for their meat. Yet there are more hormones in one can of beer than 12 T-bone steaks.” He admitted that some animal health issues occur in bovines reared on a grainfed diet, but ensured that the issues are correctly managed to “ensure there are no problems”.

Dr Shahn Bisschop, a consulting veterinarian working for Avimune (a group of veterinary consultants), who works as veterinary adviser to various poultry farms in South Africa, agrees that intensive agricultural practices “aren’t pretty”, but states categorically that no form of growth hormones are administered to chickens in South Africa. “No such products are available in the South African market for chickens. Even if we had the products, administering them by injection to 17 to 18 million chickens a week would just not be practical. The sheer maths alone should indicate that.” Dr Bisschop confirms that antibiotics are administered to chickens when required, under strict veterinary supervision according to stringent guidelines which ensure that no residues are present at the time of slaughter.

Unlike organic farmer Angus McIntosh who farms biodynamically on the grounds of Spier in Stellenbosch, both veterinarians assured that they would feed meat from conventionally farmed livestock to their children.

McIntosh on the other hand warns, “Don’t ever eat conventionally farmed chicken – it might be cheaper but you pay hidden costs to your health and the environment.” Chickens on the farm here, incidentally, listen to Mozart and are pasture-raised in low-density coops. Cattle are grass-fed and free of hormones and not confined to a feeding pen which, had it been at a conventional farm, would have had to be cleaned “at least annually” (according to the SA Feedlot Association’s official website). “Those cows [at feedlot farms] literally stand in their own shit,” as McIntosh puts is.

The choice seems to be obvious but even with the greatest intention, following a 100% organic lifestyle, if not impossible, is extremely difficult to maintain. In South Africa the organic sector comprises some 45 000 hectares of land, just 0.05% of the country’s total agricultural area and the biggest cut of local yields is still exported to Europe – which makes bulk trading in organic produce difficult and expensive. So where does it leave the part of society who wants to support the organic movement, whether for environmental or other reasons?

There are certain establishments, like restaurant Eight at Spier, which supports ecologically sound practices. Having experienced the benefi ts of organic food, executive chef Lolli Heyns refers to herself as a “converted chef” even if she is still wary of referring to Eight as an organic restaurant: “We should move away from the word organic. We should rather embrace terms such as natural, farm-to-table, seasonal and fresh produce.” Due to certain factors outlined above, it is indeed difficult, if not impossible, to find a 100% organic restaurant – making a listing of these superfluous.

What is worth noting is the upsurge in farmer’s markets where consumers who subscribe to the local food movement can find organic produce sold by small-scale farmers. Where there were but a few of these markets some years ago, consumers are now spoilt for choice on Saturdays. And for those who can’t make it to the markets on Saturdays, big supermarket groups like Woolworths cater by making available a selection of certified products. Experts suggest taking one step at a time. Some suggest eating less red meat to reduce carbon emissions (the idea behind Meat-free Mondays).

The debate won’t die soon. If anything, it will get more pertinent as we progress to a more food-conscience era. What has dawned is a time when ignorance is no longer okay. It is not about challenging the growing, industrialised, capitalist world food system. The organic food revolution is gaining momentum as more individuals are asking a simple question: where does it come from? What I would like to know is, where will this lead?

ORGANIC WINE MEETS ORGANIC FOOD

Fresh Earth in Emmarentia, Joburg, is a haven for all healthy lifestyle fanatics. Matthew Ballenden, health food guru, owner and manager, is passionate about wholesome, pure food, but also believes that balance is the key to a sustainable healthy lifestyle. With this in mind, he has put a concise but interesting wine list together to complement the food and ethos of the store. The wine list is divided into different categories – sustainable, organically grown, organic and biodynamic wines – with brief information about each group.

The aim of the list is to educate the consumer about the strides that are being made in the wine industry towards sustainable wine production as well as the excellent quality of South Africa’s organic and biodynamic wines. Although Matthew has received some criticism about selling wine in his restaurant, he believes that wine adds taste, value, culture and appreciation to a meal and helps people to unwind and slow down. He believes that wine can be part of a healthy balanced lifestyle provided – like all things – it is consumed in moderation. Fresh Earth is the perfect place to pop in for a relaxing meal over the December holidays which will leave even self-declared carnivores feeling satisfied and intrigued about vegetarian foods. – Karen Green

Tel: 011 646 4404, info@freshearth.co.za