The Odd Plate
But don't assume the quality is as variable as the menus. While creativity is encouraged, the student chefs are guided by master chef, Stefano Strafella, whose commitment to classic French and Italian cuisine and "getting the basics" right is evident throughout.
Stefano was appointed principal of the college a year ago, bringing with him the luminous reputation he gained as executive chef at the The Grace in Rosebank and The Saxon in Sandhurst. His credo, "keep it simple and make it awesome", is apparent in the menus devised by his students, who also take responsibility for supervising the kitchen and service staff (junior and intermediate students).
Expect simple classics like Osso Bucco and roasted beef fillet as well as mouthwatering vegetarian specialities like baked butternut lasagne, spicy Moroccan casserole, with spinach, lentils, couscous and cumin, or pear and leek soup.
On the night visited, a basket of warm, fresh bread, including deliciously nutty seedbread and crispy focaccia strips dressed with sundried tomatoes, accompanied the presentation of the evening's five-course "table d'hôte" menu. The starters were a suitably delicate introduction - gossamer-thin sliced zucchini drizzled with a light dressing and sprinkled with parmesan atop crunchy bruschetta and smoked salmon in a velvety mascarpone cucumber dressing under a stack of crisped vegetables.
As an entrée for the heartier main dishes, the creamy butternut soup struck the right balance between sweetness and richness. Roast chicken supreme was just that - moist and ready to fall off the bone, with a delicious mushroom purée stuffing. The pan-fried Cape salmon was more adventurous, firm and tasty, on a bed of couscous spiked with sage and a subtle yet zesty lemon sauce. A rich casserole of ostrich neck and medley of grilled curried vegetables with sautéed potatoes completed the selection of mains.
A featherlight cheesecake with raspberry compote provided a tasty conclusion, but the chocolate tortellini, with white chocolate, cream cheese and orange filling, was disappointingly tasteless. Delectable homemade friandises accompanied coffee.
Though The Odd Plate is run by students, it is a serious restaurant geared for the discerning diner. Warm cream walls, with the signature odd plates, muted cherry-coloured drapes and intimate lighting create an ambience of discreet elegance. The service was a little slow and not very communicative about the menu. The college uses the questionnaire that's presented at the end of the meal for its assessment process. So fill it in and invest in your gastronomic future!
The school is to be congratulated on an interesting, well-rounded winelist offering excellent value. As emphasis is on enhancing the dining experience, food-matching suggestions accompany each cultivar, and one-line descriptions follow each label. There are excellent aperitif proposals, but none for dessert - and we'd welcome a more focused approach to listing vintages. As an indication of price, Delheim Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 is R118, Hartenberg Zinfandel 2001 R85, Van Loveren Blanc de Noir Shiraz R48 and Villiera Chenin Blanc R55.
Set five-course meal: R125
By Alice Coetze
Photographs by Freez Frame
Address: 262 Rhino Street, Hennopspark Ext 2, Centurion, Pretoria. Tel 012 654 5203/660 3260. Fax 012 660 3246. Lunch Thurs & Fri (large bookings only). Dinner Wed-Sat. BYO R50. No smoking in the restaurant, smoking area outside. Secure parking in the college grounds.
Food: 4
Wine list3.5
Ambience: 3.5
Service: 3
Value: 4
Email: pleith@global.co.za
Website: www.prueleith.co.za
