The Meat Co
All the usual red, white and starched grill house decor elements have been squarely ignored. The Meat Co boasts a good-looking dark wood space, lit with the golden glow of designer hanging lights and featuring a central wine tower camouflaging the spiral staircase. The restaurant is so cleverly designed that even upstairs you can take full advantage of the chi-chi views over the Square and enjoy the summer breeze, as the lines between interior and exterior spaces are blurred, allowing for an inspired flow of space.
The menu is fairly extensive, particularly in the carnivorous stakes, and includes Portuguese starters like trinchado, peri peri chicken livers - in a distinctly retro green pepper shell! - and sticky pork riblets. The creamy beef fillet trinchado came highly recommended and is the perfect balance of cream and spice, if a heavy choice to lead the generous portions which follow.
There are vegetarian and surprisingly delicious fish and seafood options but the real reason why you are here is the meat grill. The steaks - grain-fed, wet-aged and matured fillet, rump, rib eye, sirloin, T-bone and prime rib - are the stars of the show and appear richly basted and plated in ever-so-lady-like or seriously superman-sized cuts. Because of the barbecue basting, the steaks may need little embellishing, but the accompanying sauces - from a robust African-inspired chakalaka to a heavenly rich vodka and blue cheese - are a must.
Dinner is served with aplomb - not a trendy New York attitude or a serving gimmick to be had. The waiters are terribly discreet, re-appearing from behind the wine tower and dimly lit corners just when you need them to top up your glass and deliver your sizzling hot plate from the hands of the busboys. And just when you think you won't manage another morsel, the dessert menu dishes up a sublime selection of grandma's favourites. Choose from chocolate mousse, chocolate brownies, malva puddings and a divinely decadent sundae of black cherries, steeped in Kirsch, capped with vanilla ice cream, pecan nuts and Bar One sauce.
An impressive winelist in terms of presentation. But in terms of vintages, new labels, and descriptions of cultivars and wines, sadly lacking. The first page carries the boast "The Meat Company are proud purveyors of Laborie and Zevenwacht wines", followed by a profile of the two cellars, vineyards and wines. Equally apt would be to add purveyors of Distell wines: the list is dominated by Distell brands Allesverloren, Durbanville Hills, Fleur du Cap, JC Le Roux, Tukulu and Zonnebloem. Given trade (even cellar door) prices, mark-ups are steep: R90 for Graham Beck Railroad Red is excessive, as is R225 for Haute Cabrière Pinot Noir. Unspecified wines by the glass are R16 for dry white and semi-sweet, R21 for red.
Average three-course meal excluding wine: R130.
By Sam Alexander
Address: Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, Johannesburg. Tel 011 684 1787. Fax 011 684 1776. Open daily for lunch and dinner and weekend breakfasts. BYO: not advised. Underground parking.
Food: 3
Wine list3
Ambience: 4
Service: 4
Value: 4
