The 'Jewel of the Overberg'
GREYTON
Little seems to have changed since Greyton was first founded in 1854 by local landowner Herbert Vigne. He decided to subdivide his original farm, Weltevreden, into smaller agricultural plots, which were taken up by a unique mixture of people of different races, nationalities and creeds. Many of the descendants of the original settlers still live and work in the village but, lessthantwohours’ drive away from Cape Town, Greyton has now also become home-away-from-home to a host of citydwellers seeking some purity and countryliving, ifonly for a weekend.
FRIDAY AFTERNOON
Beat the traffic and head out to Greyton in the afternoon, which will allow you tohook up with garagiste winemakers Andy Mitchell CWM and his chef/ winemaker daughter Olivia. Phone ahead (tel 083558 5085) and meet them for a tasting in their lounge with its spectacular views of the mountains – two of their most popular Shiraz wines (Crooked Path and Breakfast Rock) are named after landmarks visible from the terrace. Andy is a sailmaker by trade, but the wine making side is becoming increasingly demanding, hence Olivia taking time out from teaching at Greyton’s cookery school, The Ladle, to help him.
Their tiny cellar contains a new Pinot Noir and a tank of Pinot/Chardonnayblend base wine intended to become Cap Classique in a couple of years’ time and, in addition, they are also making wine for a local lawyer and the owner of the Greyton Friendly Store this year – exciting news because it means they can buy new barrels for a change! Favourite wines tasted on the day were the crisply elegant Nerina Shiraz Rosé 2010 (R50) and the excellent Chenin Blanc 2008 (R70), with its apple strudel flavours and spicy finish.
FRIDAY EVENING
Greyton has a host of different accommodation and eating options, but particularly recommended for wine-lovers is recently renovated The Post House. Business owner Louis Kruger and manager Pieter Nel are intent on turning the hotel and restaurant into the ‘wine hub’ of Greyton, with a new sommelier, planned winemaker dinners and a wine list of mainly Overberg wines, some offered at cellar-door prices.
Start your evening as every winemaker does – with a glass of beer! The tiny onsite pub offers three on tap and if you think it all looks very familiar – you’re right, it does. The well-known “Give that man a Bell’s!” advert was filmed here, and.the walls are adorned with photos of.the cast, among other memorabilia, all.lying higgledy-piggledy about the huge.open fireplace and comfy sofas, giving it a cosy, lived-in feel.
The restaurant offers hearty bistro-style food, set against another roaring fire and served by cheerful and friendly staff. Starters include butternut soup, creamy chicken livers and several interesting salad options, while mains are mostly meaty with Karoo lamb chops, homemade bobotie and burgers and a range of pastas. The food is well cooked and tasty, and portions are substantial, but leave some room for the chocolate fondant, made using local chocolatier Richard von Geusau’s divinely dark creations.
SATURDAY MORNING
Start your weekend as the locals do, by heading straight off to the Saturday Morning Market on Main Road, near the tennis courts. It opens at 10:00 and most people get there early to have first pick of home-made pies and quiches, jams, cheeses, veggies, cakes and crafts. Stallholders come from the village or very.nearby, so you can be confident of buying truly local wares. Loret’s Pesto and Desiree Kingwill’s colourfully waxed Jersey cow’s-milk cheeses are highlights, and no-one should leave without indulging in one of Davida’s divine pancakes slathered in home-made lemon curd. Visitors spend a happy few hours browsing, eating and shopping – for locals, it takes a little longer as they loiter to chat with their neighbours, family and friends.
SATURDAY LUNCH
Once you’ve shopped to your heart’s content, make your way to one of Greyton’s many eateries for a spot of lunch – yes, a weekend at Greyton is not recommended for a dieter! Pop your head into the Catherine Paynter Gallery (tel 028.254 9064) on Oak Street before heading to Greyton stalwart Oak & Vigne (tel 028 254 9037) with its robust deli-food and relaxed, laid-back atmosphere. Try the local Von Geusau chocolates there as well. Families might prefer to opt for the Vanilla Café (tel 028 254 9453), just opposite Oak & Vigne, where kids are well catered for with jungle gyms and tasty pizzas, and dads can enjoy sport on.the big TV screen under cover outside, all washed down with draught Napier beer. The food is hearty café-cuisine –.expect toasted sandwiches, good burgers.and all-day breakfasts – and the quirky interior holds lots of interesting treasures and nick-nacks if you fancy a.browse after.your meal.
SATURDAY AFTERNOON
There is plenty to do in Greyton depending on the weather and how hardy you are. The village and surrounding area is becoming hugely popular with mountainbikers, and local shop Rockhopper Adventures will give details of all the best trails and routes (tel 083 235 9612).
Less energetic souls may want to try out some of Greyton’s many walks, which are all clearly signposted and suitable for all levels of age and fitness. For more information, ask for a map from the Tourism Bureau (tel 028.254 9564). And if the weather is fine (but only if it is – the road is shocking!), then you should defi nitely take a drive out towards Riviersonderend and visit Lismore Estate Vineyard (phone ahead: tel 082 343 7913).
Californian owner/winemaker Samantha O’Keefe has created a hilltop paradise for herself, sons Keenan and Quinn and her range of boutique wines. Lismore was originally Greyton’s only wine estate, and her wines have become so popular that she has increased production and is making them off-site for the first time this year, finding a new home in Elgin’s Highlands Road. Her Viognier is the flagship (2009, R145) offering elegance and citrus fruit, but her Sauvignon Blanc (2009, R96) is an exciting entrant into the up-and-coming category of wooded Sauvignons with plenty of yellow apples balanced by well-integrated oak and a creamy almond finish. If you can’t make it out to the vineyards – which would be a shame because the views are incredible – then all her wines are available at cellar price at The Post House.
SATURDAY EVENING
Newly renovated Peccadillos Bistro (tel 028.254 9066) is the place to go, according to the locals; chef/owner Rupert.Fage has a regularly changing menu of interesting and unusual dishes. Next door on Main Road, hearty country fare can be found at the Abbey Rose restaurant (tel 028 254 9470) with falloff- the-bone lamb shanks and the best ribs in town. Greyton residents are hoping that Massimo Galassi, the new owner of Oak & Vigne, will introduce dishes from his native Rome onto the evening menu soon. Wine lists at most restaurants are relatively small but reasonably priced.
SUNDAY MORNING
Take it easy on Sunday and join the locals for an alfresco breakfast or cappuccino at Via’s Deli on Main Road (tel 028 254 9190) – be warned, those cakes are addictive! Or you can take a short drive to neighbouring Genadendal and attend morning service at the Moravian Mission Church there (10:00 every Sunday). This is the oldest mission station in the country and the whole town is littered with National Monument buildings, which make a post-church stroll around the village a pleasure. Return to Greyton for Sunday lunch at one of the restaurants or head back to Cape Town, stopping off on the way for lunch at Gabriëlskloof in Botrivier (tel 028.284 9865) for superb food and excellent wines – try the Five Arches red blend or the stunning Magdalena white.
WHERE TO STAY
THE POST HOUSE
Tel 028 254 9995; www.theposthouse.co.za
Fourteen rooms, each named after a Beatrix Potter character and with its own patio leading out to the pretty central garden. Prices start at R550 per person sharing per night, including breakfast. The Post House is very central, and facilities include the restaurant, the Post House Country Pub, a small conference centre, a self-catering family unit and a beauty salon. What makes it special? It is very much the heart of the village, with staff knowing most customers well and locals treating a visit to The Post House as part of their daily routine.
VIA’S GUESTHOUSE
Tel 028 254 9722; www.vias.co.za
Also centrally located, Via’s Guesthouse has four bedrooms, away from the main road and nestled around a secluded garden. The rooms are all individually decorated and prices start at R425 per person sharing, including breakfast. What makes it special? Via’s was originally conceived as an organic deli and restaurant, and the owners try to offer food that is healthy, but never compromises on taste! The adjacent cooking school, The Ladle, offers full- and half-day courses on a range of subjects, with prices starting at around R600 per person. Contact heidi@theladle.co.za for more information.
