The Bell Pepper
The Correiras have opted to create a sleek, modern space with soft lighting and spacious table arrangements. The earthy-coloured walls are hung with large black and white prints and the ceiling strung with cocoon-like lanterns that would be very at home in Greenside's chi-chi surrounds.
Sonia and Clifford Correira are very pleased with the results. Judging from the bustling atmosphere, so are their patrons. Classically trained Clifford's select menu changes seasonally and is complemented by a choice of specials entirely dependent on the fresh ingredients he's managed to procure. When we dined, fresh porcini mushrooms were the order of the day and had been incorporated into both a starter - thickly sliced porcini mushrooms with cream and red wine on bruschetta - and a main course dish - matured rump fillet, capped with a creamy porcini mushroom sauce, served on a bed of pesto mash.
The porcini mushroom starter was excellent: generously portioned and delicately flavoured. But so were the choices off the core menu, like the succulent mussels prepared in a red Thai sauce that was just right - not so spicy as to dull the flavour of the mussels and not so runny as to be soup! Other tempting options included fresh figs wrapped in Parma ham and topped with roquefort, and chilled plum tomato soup with fresh basil and mozzarella balls.
The main courses were equally appetising and the servings liberal. Grilled Scottish salmon on a bed of angel-hair pasta, lapped with an artichoke and sun-dried tomato sauce and roasted duckling with a tangy citrus and ginger jus whet the appetite but we opted for fillet. The perfectly pink ostrich fillet with Madagascan green peppercorn sauce was superb as were the fillet medallions, topped with a hearty sticky sauce of Jack Daniels and onions. Both were served with a sizable selection of veggies and sautéed potatoes.
For dessert we were encouraged to try the berry mille feuille, and while it wasn't a classic mille feuille, with only three layers of phyllo pastry, it was exquisite. The phyllo had been coated with pistachio nut butter, layered with fresh berries, cream and surrounded by a tart fruit coulis. If you're not in the mood for anything sweet, go for the Italian cheese platter, served with the usual biscuits and preserves.
A short, lively winelist gives both vintages and descriptions. Prices are friendly, unless you want bubbly and have a dry palate. The MCC is off-dry and the alternative - Moët & Chandon - is R780. White wines are all under R100 (highest-priced is 2001 Groote Post Chardonnay at R99) and the spread of reds rises from 2001 Asara Gamay Noir (R72) to 2001 Blaauwklip-pen Zinfandel (R140). If you're in the mood to explore, Oranjerivier Rosé, a blend of Chenin and Ruby Cabernet, is R58. The vintage collection (no prices given) includes 1997 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir, described in the latest Platter guide as "unsurpassed".
Average three-course meal: R110.
By Sam Alexander
Address: 76 Queen Street, Kensington. Tel 011 615 7531. E-mail Sonia.c@permark.co.za. Lunch and dinner Tues-Sat; Sun lunch. BYO R15. Guarded street parking.
Food: 4
Wine list2.5
Ambience: 3.5
Service: 3.5
Value: 4
