The beer necessities
The Egyptians loved it so much, they drew pictures on pyramids of guys in loincloths making it. The Mayflower made premature landfall in New England because they ran out of it. Benjamin Franklin, between drafting the declaration of independence and flying kites in thunderstorms, declared it was “proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy”. And while saving the world from Nazi tyranny, Winston Churchill ordered his secretary of war to make sure that troops under fi re in the forward trenches got at least four pints of it a week. Beer, glorious beer: how different the world would be without it.
Sadly, in a ranking of life’s fermented pleasures, beer plays second fiddle to more refined preparations – perhaps even further back, in the far reaches of the carbonated woodwind section. And more’s the pity, for once one is exposed to the full potential of the holy quartet – malt, water, hops and yeast – it becomes clear that there’s more to this brew than an ice-cold quencher glugged down in clouds of swirling smoke while lamb loins suffer on a rusty grill. When yeast has its way with grain sugars, the esters and phenols released are every bit as complex as those in the grape – from medicinal, herbal undertones to full-on flavours of banana and vanilla. In other parts of the world, such mysteries were long ago discovered.
Germany, home of the Oktoberfest, is the heavyweight champ of beer – and its purity laws (the Reinheitsgebot) ensure the highest standards. In the UK, pub culture is woven deep in the social fabric. Back in 1973, with big commercial breweries flooding pubs with soulless product, the Campaign for Real Ale fought back, celebrating the virtues of cask ale brewed with living yeast in the same container in which it’s served – like wine on the lees. And then there’s Belgium, home to the life-changing Abbey ales. Only seven beers are allowed to call themselves ‘trappist’ and hallowed be their names: Achel, Chimay, Orval, Rochefort, Westmalle, Koningshoeven (in the Netherlands) and the mighty Westvleteren.
In a plain brown bottle and identified only by its yellow cap, the 12 is a work of art. Deep, sultry, chestnut brown with a creamy head and 10.2% of pure temptation, it’s a perfectly balanced, medium-bodied mix of plums, dates, raisins, caramel, pepper and lots of liquorice with a crisp, dry fi nish and a lingering aftertaste that develops with every breath. The Dutch have a saying, ‘er pist een engel over mijn tong’ and I can’t think of a better description for Westvleteren 12.
Here in South Africa, the trip to the abbey has only just begun. Long before Dias dropped his cross, the indigenous people had discovered that grain + yeast = fun. Try a Sotho sorghum or Xhosa Umqombothi for the full effect. And thanks to Dutch, German and British immigrants, beer production has been a continuum of skill and know-how. Our present landscape, however, started taking shape in 1895 with the founding of South African Breweries. A century and a bit later, the gargantuan SABMiller group controls almost 90% of the local market – making it, according to a recent report, “the largest existing monopoly market in the world”.
Who can blame them for maintaining the stranglehold – we are the ninthlargest beer market in the world and SAB flogs about 2 500 000 000 litres of grog every year. That makes their fizz-pop lagers, in various guises, by far the biggestselling, most popular beers in SA – but is that an indication of quality? Clearly not. Apply the same logic to grapes and you’d conclude that sweet Rosé made by four close relatives in Robertson is South Africa’s best wine. Good luck winning that argument.
It’s sad. Monopolisation of our beerwaves has prevented any movement away from insipid lager that has to be served frozen to avoid disappointment. Tell the average local beer lover that things like Champagne beers exist with notes of straw, fruit, pepper and tobacco, and expect a raised eyebrow. There’s just no frame of reference – which is why we really could do with a little variety in our diets. But how far away are we from a malt revolution?
If you ask the guys at Mitchell’s Brewery in Knysna, they’ll tell you it started 27 years ago with the arrival of Foresters Lager and Bosun’s Bitter. And today, those names are commonplace in Slaapstad. Fortunately, other microbrewers have slinked through the door Mitchell’s opened – and it bodes well for the future of a decent beer culture. Most of the action is taking place in the Cape and KwaZulu-Natal. In the former, beers from Napier, Birkenhead and, more recently, the Boston Brewery have starting popping up in liquor stores. And in KwaZulu-Natal, where pioneers like Nottingham Road Brewery paved the way, KZN Tourism has launched a formal beer route. As for the rest of the country, there are mad professors boiling wort all over the place – specifi cally in the great northern territories where you’ll find the nation’s most active home-brewers.
Gurus will tell you the appearance of ale is a good omen. Beer production is primarily divided into lagers and ales. Lager, by far the most popular worldwide, is the pale, crisp, wheaty brew we grew up on and the family ranges from light Pilsners to styles that are certainly not part of our tradition – amber lagers like the classic molasses monster, German Bock.
The essential difference between lagers and ales is in the yeast. Lager is made with bottom-fermenting yeast – which does exactly what it says. Ales are brewed with top-fermenting yeast – not a very accurate distinction, because it actually ferments through the wort. Unlike the slow, low-temperature fermentation of lager, top-fermentation takes place rapidly and at higher temperatures.
The result, though harder to master, is a more complex flavour compound and a far more robust, hearty brew compared to the smooth elegance of a good lager. From golden, fruity pale ales to the raisin-touched, spicey, nuttiness of amber ales, there’s no limit to their potential. Citrusy, cereal-like wheat beers are also ales, as are their moody relatives – the porters, stouts and dark ales that can appear almost pitch black.
A combination of top-fermentation and intensely roasted malt makes them something of an acquired taste, but give them a chance and you’ll be rewarded with unique Christmas-cake flavours. When you start fermenting grain sugars, there’s no end to what can be achieved. Which explains why, in many parts of the civilised world, where craft beer is increasingly taking hold, it is given the same status as wine – an alcoholic beverage worthy of debate, respect and appreciation. Perhaps it’s time we followed suit?
Beer and food pairing
Ever heard of a cicerone? It’s a certified beer sommelier. A good thing too since, for most of history, beer was the drink of choice to accompany meals. In the UK, people look at you funny if you don’t order a lager with curry or slurp back creamy oysters with smooth, dark stout. In Belgium, beer and mussels is a must and in Germany, breakfast in Munich just wouldn’t be the same without Weissbier, weisswurst, sweet mustard and a pretzel.
To get some insight, I sat down with Brad Armitage of &Union – a unique beer salon in Cape Town that’s changing the way locals think about beer and food. Unable to find local beers that were truly up to scratch, the &Union guys imported their own bespoke brews from Germany and Belgium. Currently, there are six on the menu: Brewers & Union unfiltered dark and a light lager; Steph Weiss – a lemony, unfiltered Weissbier; Berne – a buttery, caramel amber lager; and the two big guys, a honey malt Tripel Amber and a creamy, fruity Tripel Blonde, both brewed in Belgium and served in Champagne bottles. With the 500ml lagers coming in at R40 a pop and the Tripels over R80, they are hardly taking on the local Keg market.
“We’re after people who enjoy beer as you enjoy wine – who like the idea of flavour, body, aroma and complexity – and who enjoy the way food and beer can ‘set each other off’ just like wine,” explains Brad. “It’s strange – we’re a beer and wine country and we’re passionate about both, but we have completely different relationships with each of them. Why does beer have to be ‘cheap’? We wanted to try to show people that beer can compete on quality, not just price – and plenty of our regulars can’t drink ‘normal’ beer any more!”
He’s a passionate beer man, Brad, and was instrumental in getting the ‘We love real beer’ campaign and festival off the ground. “It was amazing – we had 2 500 people through the doors so there’s no doubt people are taking more of an interest in decent beer.” At &Union, there are regular beer tastings – and food and beer pairing evenings – and if the success of these events is anything to go by, Brad’s optimism isn’t misguided. So why no local brew on his beer list? “I think we’re in exciting times, but we need the local craft brewers to keep upping their game – and we can start by moving away from plastic bottles! I guess what we really need to fi nd is the Adi Badenhorst of the SA beer industry. It’ll happen.”
One trend Brad points out is how the fairer sex is increasingly attracted to craft beers. “They’re not as bitter and women really seem to get the more complex flavours.” He references a recent article in the Herald Tribune that indicates women beer drinkers in the US constitute 25% of the total market.
As for pairing, his advice is simple: “The rule of thumb is the same as wine: the more complex the beer, the more complex the dish can be. You never want one to overpower the other – and with beer there are some wonderful opportunities. Our Weiss goes better with sushi than any wine!”
&Union Beer Salon,110 Bree Street, St Stephen’s Church, Cape Town
021 422 2770, www.andunion.com
TASTING BASICS
At &Union, the guy who’s really into the beer and food side of things is their affable operations manager Simon Wibberly who reportedly begins every tasting with the following: “Hi everyone and welcome. For those who haven’t been here before, the loos are over there in the corner and remember you can’t smoke inside. Now, all you have to know is that a beer tasting is exactly like a wine tasting – just without the pretence!”
ON THE NOSE Once you’ve appreciated the wonderful rich colours, make sure there’s a good head on the beer when you nose it – so swill away. If you get floral, citrus, grass, lemon or spice, it indicates high hops content and if you get more burned caramel or toasted aromas, it indicates a high malt concentration.
ON THE PALATE As with wine, take a decent mouthful and give it a good chew to get an idea of the weight of the beer. You should get entry flavours – then look for a good long finish. As with wine, the signal of a great beer is one that keeps delivering layers of flavour components as you keep sipping. One word of advice: don’t ever spit out beer when you’re tasting it – the ghosts of monks through the ages will plague your dreams.
Beer was central to the ‘80s sitcom Cheers. Every week Cliff Clavin and Norm Peterson batted it out verbally on their barstools – and one of those interactions has become a legendary YouTube moment. Cliff slugs back a draft, turns to his mate and says: “Well ya see, Norm, it’s like this... A herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo. And when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving by the regular killing of the weakest members.
In much the same way, the human brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells. Excessive intake of alcohol, as we know, kills brain cells. But naturally, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first. In this way, regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. That’s why you always feel smarter after a few beers.”
THE DIVINE QUARTET (aka how beer is made)
With wine, yeast consumes the natural sugars in the grapes. Likewise, beer is made when yeast consumes the sugar derived from grain, but the starch found in grain has to be converted into sugar before yeast can feast.
MALTBeer is usually made from barley, wheat or rye, but any grain will do. Wet the grain to start germination, which produces enzymes – then roast it to halt the process and create malt of varying colour – and flavour. In the malting process alone, there are a zillion different combinations that will affect the final product.
WATERMill the malt, put it into a mash tun and add hot water to turn malt into mash. Heat the mixture to activate the enzymes so they’ll convert the starches in the broken grain into fermentable sugars. At this point, there are all sorts of things you can do – taking out the mash and repeating the process, varying the ratio of water to malt, etc.
HOPSFilter off the mash liquid and you’re left with sweet wort. Boil the wort together with hops or whatever flavourant you want. This is a critical stage since hops needs to be tortured in boiling water to give up its secrets and it’s hops that infuses the tangy, bitter character to beer, balancing the sweetness of the wort. The plant we’re talking about is Humulus lupulus – more specifically the female flower clusters thereof.
YEASTThere are thousands of species of yeast used in brewing beer – for anoraks, the main genus is Saccharomyces. Once you’ve chilled down the wort, add the yeast which feasts on the sugars, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide. The result is a primary ferment. At this stage, you could start over again in a secondary or even tertiary fermentation, but basically, you’ve got yourself a beer, mate!
OKAY, YOU’VE GOT ME INTERESTED, WHERE DO I START?
NORTHERN LIGHTS
A good starting point is De Garve – the first microbrewery in Vanderbijlpark (just trust your Garmin and enter S 26º 42.200’ E 27º 45.651’ or phone Patrick at 083 304 0197). They currently brew five beers including an Abbeystyle Happy Monk ale – and will arrange tastings and tours. In Pretoria, Moritz Kalimeyer leads the way with his Drayman’s Brewery (222 Dykor Road, Silverton, tel 012 804 8800) and a broad range of gloriously named craft beers like Goblin’s Bitter and Old Legless Strong Ale. And in Muldersdrift, along the R114 off Beyers Naudé, owner and brew master Steve Gilroy does some remarkable things at his Gilroy’s Restaurant and Brewery (tel 011 796 3020) including tastings of his pure brews. Clearly a man who proves the value of passion for your product! As hinted at above, there’s a strong home-brewers scene and websites such as worthogbrewers.co.za and thebeerkeg.co.za keep the community in touch.
THE V&A
Cool Capetonians will tell you to stay away from the Waterfront, but for beer lovers, it’s a rare opportunity to stagger around and get variety. Start at Paulaner Bräuhaus (tel 021 418 9999) near the Clock Tower for a true Germanic experience including the best Weissbier on tap in the country. Then amble over to the original Waterfront bar, Ferryman’s Tavern (tel 021 419 7748) which opened in 1989. It serves the full spectrum of Mitchell’s draughts together with its own spicy Ferryman’s Ale – a great way to spend an afternoon. To finish off, retrace your steps and find Den Anker (tel 021 419 0249) – a Belgian-style upmarket establishment where your credit card will cringe – but your taste buds will smile. Undoubtedly the best selection of Belgian beer around, from Duvel to its own imported Anker draught. If you want to improve your scope of reference, this is the place.
DOWN SOUTH
At The Brewery in the eccentric town of Nieu Bethesda (tel 049 8411602) Andre Cilliers has been experimenting since 2003 and his £ oral and bitter ales are both worth the trip. If you land in Knysna, visit the original Mitchell’s Brewery (Arend Street, Knysna Industria, tel 044 382 4685) for daily tours and tastings. On the way from Cape Agulhas to Cape Town, you’ll pass through Napier. Stop at the Napier Brewery, just off the main street. Call Mark (083 703 8004) or Andrew (073 034 5729) to tell them you’re on your way to try their Napier Ale. One of the longer-standing microbreweries in the Cape is Birkenhead Brewery just outside Stanford on the R326 (tel 028 341 0183). An al fresco beer-tasting is a pleasure – and if you’ve only got time for a pint, make it a Honey Blonde Ale. The Boston Brewery in Cape Town (48 Carlisle Street, Paarden Eiland, tel 021 511 4179) started in 2000 and brew master Chris Barnard has become a champion of the dark arts. Brewery tours can be arranged, but phone ahead. Their toffee-tone Whale Tail Ale is a real winner as is the Hazard Ten (at 10%, the strongest local product) – and look out for a soon-to-be-released draught called the Naked Mexican!
THE KZN ROUTE
Start out at the Firkin Hophouse Brewery atop the Pavilion shopping centre in Westville (tel 031 265 0154). Tours are available and the menu includes ales and lagers – notably the moreish, malty Pale Ale. For real gems, hit the road, starting in the Natal Midlands at the Nottingham Road Brewing Company (Rawdons Hotel, Nottingham Road, tel 033 266 6728). Since 1996, they’ve won fans with extremely fine, unforgettably named, German-style beers like Pickled Pig Porter and Tiddly Toad Lager. Our favourite? Whistling Weasel Pale Ale. Back down the N3, make a turn onto the M46 for the Shongweni Brewery (tel 031 769 2061). Their bottleconditioned beers are superb – a full spectrum from wheat and fruit beers to a world-class Pale Ale. The final stop is the North Coast where Eshowe’s Zululand Brewing Company finds a home at the George Hotel (Main Street Eshowe, tel 035 474 4919) and their all-natural pilsners, ales, porters and bitters flow out the taps.
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