The balancing act

Finding equilibrium, from grape to glass.

So here is this issue of balance and all its dimensions. In tasting wine, we are intrigued by finding equilibrium between acid, fruit and tannin, and the overall mouthfeel and weight of the wine.

 

This invariably leads into considering how the primary, secondary and tertiary qualities integrate, or how fruit characteristics, any oak or other influence, and their interaction, produce additional traits and appear with the passage of time, delivering something new.

Dissecting these components results in the overall choice of what is appealing: what we decide to drink now, for what occasion, and whether it will take pride of place in our "to-keep" category for collection.

The latitude parameter - where wine is only made between 30 and 50 degrees latitude - is a defined range which ensures the most favourable climate levels. So from grape growth at its inception, there is a notion of "the right place at the right climate".

Particular amounts of both heat and light produce the most favourable levels of sugars and acids to bring out the best flavours. The further we move toward the equator, the more heat there is to produce lots of sugar and little acidity (not ideal, since sugar produces the alcohol in wine and acidity enhances the flavours).

Likewise, grapes grown above 50 degrees latitude do not receive enough heat and result in weak wines with little sugar and too much acidity. Red grapes need more sun than white to develop the tannins in the skins and pips, imparting both complexity as well as certain antioxidants. How's that for balance in a glass!

From one side of the equator to the other, as we well know, the differences abound. Merlot, often called the "fruitcake" variety, appears to require particularly careful attention. Many examples can be rather lightweight, but those that are great have all the lusciousness that is implied by the "fruitcake" descriptor.

Used fairly often in blends, Merlot acts to soften and even balance the final product.

Despite not having as many of the firstclass accolades that Cabernet Sauvignon has known, there are some Merlots which can mature well over 30 years and enjoy a high-end, premium-price place in the market.

In SA there are those that are velvet-textured and elicit plush descriptors, as well as having those trademark herbaceous, forest-foliage aromas. The variety certainly warrants due consideration in its differing styles, so don't miss our category review on p.82.

During a tasting experience, it's often a balance of the senses that we are after - clarity in appearance, aromas that are forthcoming, and fruit, acidity and sometimes tannin on the palate that work together.

So we want quality wines, but we also want great service. We want to create the right ambiance and setting to enjoy our wines; and we want a fair amount of guidance to narrow down our search for these wines. In pondering all of this, I can't help wondering how ready we are for all the activity and spin-off that this much-hyped year will bring.

There's a highly provocative sense of anticipation, something akin to the suspense we experienced in the lead-up to Y2K. No doubt the World Cup will lead to really exciting times. And what will the wine world be expecting?

There's a great enthusiasm about putting SA on the map, but a certain amount of apprehension about the changes that will occur, and whether we're ready for them.

Looking at it positively, the World Cup most surely encourages movement in the direction of greater focus on quality and improved levels of service. In 2010, arguably as never before, it's all about getting the balance right.