Tequila
Scorpion Honey
Made from the agave plant, tequila has a reputation for being particularly harshflavoured and unrefined. However, there are increasingly sophisticated versions, and it's the fastest growing spirit beverage in the USA, if not the world. By Mike Froud.
Tequila used to be all about shooters and mean headaches the morning after. Fun-loving party-goers will remember girls wearing holsters in which they'd carry a bottle on each thigh; distracting beauties who'd persuade you to lean back and let them pour a shot down your throat...
Much has changed in recent years (or perhaps we've just grown up?). There are now premium and ultra-premium tequilas on the market that combine traditional techniques with modern technology to offer fine spirits far removed from the stuff remembered mainly for its bite. Today an increasing number of people savour their tequila slowly, in Riedel or other glasses specially made for sniffing 'n sipping the Spirit of the Agave - in fact, tequila connoisseurs assess the different expressions in a manner not hugely dissimilar to rating wine, whisky, Cognac...
Whereas the two-tot shot glass made especially for sipping tequila (the traditional cabillito glass) is still most commonly used for Blanco or Silver (white) and Reposado (slightly oaked) styles, a snifter such as the 200ml tequila glass in the Riedel range is preferred for the Añejo (aged) style which has more complex aromas... "Come again?" some might ask. White (clear) versus brown (wood aged) is about as far as most go in distinguishing the different types of tequila - and the adventurous might suggest that the bottle with a worm inside is another style of tequila made from a cactus-like plant, but they'd be wrong on both counts.
In fact, the blue agave plant from which tequila is made is not a cactus but related to the succulent lily family, and the spirit with a worm inside is a different kind of mezcal - made from five different kinds of agave, not compliant with the strict standards laid down by the Tequila Regulatory Council of Mexico, and with the worm (insect lava actually) included in the bottle of a few brands for marketing reasons more than anything else.
Tequila is the name of the region in western Mexico where most tequila hails from, as well as the name of a city in the Tequila region in the state of Jalisco that was once the only area where tequila production was permitted. The blue agave - also known as agave tequilana azul - is indigenous to Jalisco. It reaches maturity in eight to 12 years, by which time it can grow to two metres in length with the "piña" (the core of the plant that is used to make tequila) resembling a very large pineapple and weighing up to 70kg.
At the distillery, the piñas are cut up, roasted and shredded; the juices fermented before double distillation. And then it's time to decide on the styles of production, beginning with the two broad categories of tequila:
• Mixto - a blend involving at least 51% agave-based spirit, generally exported in bulk and bottled outside Mexico (total production put at 161 million litres in 2006).
• 100% Agave - made from 100% agave juice and bottled in Mexico (total production put at 81 million litres in 2006). Within these categories, the different types or styles of tequila are as follows, the strength ranging from 38% to 45% alcohol by volume:
• Blanco or Silver - white (clear and transparent), bottled immediately after the distillation process. Usually strong in character.
• Oro or Gold - to which colourants and/or flavourings have been added (most commonly caramel).
• Reposado or Rested - mellowed in oak barrels for between two and 12 months; typically more gentle in taste than the Silver and Gold styles.
• Añejo or Aged - kept in oak barrels for between one and three years, having an amber colour and a woody flavour, with more complexity on nose and palate.
• Extra Añejo or Vintage - aged for more than three years in barrel (the term Reserva is sometimes used to denote a special Añejo aged for up to eight years).
COCKTAILS PLUS
In Mexico, tequila tends to be drunk straight, at room
temperature. Elsewhere in the world, it's enjoyed as a
chaser, in a cocktail or simply with ice.
MARGARITA
2 tots tequila (Reposado for a milder version;
Blanco or Silver for a stronger version)
1 tot Triple Sec (Cointreau, Grand Marnier or
Mandarin Napoleon can be used)
½ tot fresh lime juice
Ice (cubes, chopped or crushed)
Salt-rimmed cocktail glass
Mix all ingredients in cocktail shaker and pour or strain
into salt-rimmed glass.
TEQUILA SUNRISE
2 tots ice-cold tequila
4 tots orange juice
1 tot grenadine (or less)
Highball glass
Pour orange juice into glass, add tequila slowly, then trickle
grenadine on top (grenadine will sink to the bottom), ending
with a layered effect, a perfect sunrise.
TEQUILA SOUR
1½ tots tequila (preferably Añejo or Aged)
2 tots lemon juice
1 t sugar
Crushed ice
1 red cherry
Mix all ingredients in cocktail shaker, strain into glass, and
garnish with cherry.
TEQUILA CRUDA
1 shot glass of tequila (preferably good-quality Gold or
Silver)
Lemon or lime wedge
1 pinch of salt
Lick skin on back of hand between thumb and index finger
and sprinkle on a pinch of salt. Hold a slice of lemon or
lime with same thumb and finger. Then quickly lick the salt, drink the tequila, bite the fruit.
SNAPSHOTS
Tequila was first produced in the 16th century, near to where the city of Tequila was officially established in 1656. Today there are some 100 tequila distilleries and 600 brands of tequila in Mexico, with over 1 000 tequilas registered internationally. Some go back hundreds of years and few remain family-owned brands. However, many tequila brands were only "born" over the past 20 years or so, and are virtually unheard of in Mexico.
Don José Lopez Portilo, "The President's Tequila" - Lopez Portillo was a descendent of Vincente Albino Rojas and Maria Magdalena Ignacio Cuervo, and in the 19th century his family brought in German agronomist Franz Weber to classify the agave plant now known as agave tequilana azul, the basis for all fine tequila.
Don Julio - produced in the Atotonilco region of Mexico since 1942, when it was founded by Don Julio Gonzalez Estrada. One of the first choices among premiumtequila connoisseurs in Mexico.
José Cuervo - produced in the Tequila region and the world leader, volume-wise. Particularly dominant in the USA, where tequila sales recently overtook those in Mexico. Also number one in South Africa. In 1758 José Antonio Cuervo was the first licensed manufacturer of tequila. It recently introduced the brand extension José Cuervo Black, designed to be drunk with cola.
Olmeca - established in the Arandas region of Mexico. Award winner at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles as well as the International Wine & Spirit Competition in London. Second-biggest tequila brand in the South African market.
Patrón - produced in the Arandas region of Mexico, the top-selling ultra-premium tequila world-wide, though with only a tiny percentage of sales in Mexico. Founded 20 years ago by haircare entrepreneur John Paul DeJoria (of John Paul Mitchell Systems) and business partner Martin Crowley. Based in Las Vegas, Nevada, USA, The Patrón Spirits Company's tequila became the second biggest in the world by 2007.
Sauza - produced in the Tequila region, third after Cuervo and Patrón in terms of world market leadership and number one in Mexico. Don Cenobio Sauza, founder of Sauza Tequila, was the first to export tequila to the USA.
PRICE SPECTRUM:
Tequilas available in South Africa - prices per 750ml including VAT:
Don Julio Reposado R370 to R426
Don Julio White R30 upwards
Don Lopez R70 upwards
Gingros Gold R120 to R137
Gringos Blanco R107 to R122
José Cuervo Clasico R133 to R156
José Cuervo Gold R135 to R161
José Cuervo Silver R133 upwards
Olmeca Black Extra Aged R155 to R191
Olmeca Gold Extra Aged R160 to R185
Olmeca Gold R140 to R173
Olmeca Reposado Gold R130 to R165
Olmeca Silver R130 to R155
Olmeca Tezon Añejo R426 to R511
Olmeca Tezon Bianco R358 upwards
Olmeca Tezon Reposado R349 to R449
Patrón Anejo Approx R641
Patrón Burdeos Approx R4 936
Patrón Platinum Approx R2 027
Patrón Reposado Approx R669
Patrón Ultimat Approx R639
Patrón XO Café Approx R299
Sauza Añejo Approx R978
Sauza Gold Approx R199
Sauza Hornitos Approx R317
Sauza Plata Approx R918
Sauza Reposado Approx R950
Sauza Silver Approx R187
Sierra Gold Approx R152
Sierra Silver Approx R145
