Ten most influential people in the SA wine industry
Who shapes the sort of wine that you are currently drinking? We list the top 10 individuals who are most influential in defining the South African wine industry in 2006.
The essential condition of entry onto the list of the 10 most influential people in South African wine was straight-forward: each entrant needed to have a direct influence over the style of wines that local consumers are drinking today.
This could be in any capacity, whether as winemaker, academic, marketer, retailer, critic or corporate executive.
Parameters for inclusion were set as wide as possible. How local wine fares in export markets necessarily has an impact on how production is structured back home, so individuals operating globally were also eligible for inclusion.
One minor constraint was that anybody making the list should be active in the industry right now. This precluded the likes of Günter Brözel, who started as cellar
assistant at Nederburg in 1956 and retired over 30 years later as cellarmaster and managing director, as well as Ronnie Melck, managing director of Stellenbosch Farmers' Winery from 1979 to 1990.
Every effort was made to avoid naming institutions or phenomena. Leafroll virus is arguably the biggest factor prohibiting South African wine attaining a greater all-round level of quality but is not on the list as the emphasis was on identifying people.
A point of concern is that, barring Nelson Mandela, no black names appear on the list. Gavin Pieterse, head of the South African Wine Industry Trust (SAWIT), the body charged with advancing the transformation of the industry, was asked to contribute but declined.
His concern was that the exercise sought to eulogise "those individuals behind successful brands" and did not make provision for "those unsung heroes" that were making "a significant and meaningful difference as it pertains to the global competitiveness challenge, growth imperatives and transformation demands" faced by the industry. His closing remark was that he considered it a pity that, WINE "has elected to follow an editorial policy which seeks to perpetuate the elitist and glamorous myth of wine as a lifestyle for the privileged few".
1. Nelson Mandela
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Jan van Riebeek of the Dutch East India Company recorded that wine was first made from Cape grapes on 2 February 1659, meaning that South Africa has a
winemaking heritage going back some 350 years.
Take a more pragmatic view, however, and the modern era of winemaking goes back no further than the early 1990s, coinciding with the political transformation of that time.
During the period of isolation imposed on South Africa as a result of apartheid, local wine producers became isolated from global wine trends, while the presence of the KWV meant that the industry was highly regulated and not efficiently structured.
Post-transformation, the world was positively inclined towards all things South African, which led to an export-led wine boom. Winemakers could travel freely in search of knowledge and the industry was forced to run according to free market principles.
It is not difficult to argue that in recent times no one has had a greater impact on what's in your glass than Nelson Mandela, South Africa's first democratically elected president.
2. Charles Back
Owner, Fairview and Spice Route
Back was born on Paarl farm Fairview, owned by his family since 1937. He obtained a degree in oenology and viticulture from Elsenburg Agricultural College before beginning work at Fairview in 1978, where he has been based ever since.
Back is today admired as a pioneer although he went unsung by some of his more conservative peers initially. He was one of the first to move away from the estate wine concept, seeking out quality sites in previously unheralded areas and constantly experimenting with new varietals.
Back is also a consummate marketer. When exports took off post transformation, he was ahead of the game, having already put in plenty of groundwork.
In particular, the Rhône-style Goats do Roam sub-brand has sold extraordinarily well both here and internationally while humorously sticking it to the French. His efforts in developing premium winery Spice Route in Malmesbury allow him to pursue the top end of the market, while his commitment to the industry as a whole is demonstrated by his agreeing to become a technical advisor to the KWV.
3. Michael Fridjhon
Wine Critic and Consultant
Fridjhon is a consultant and international wine judge, and is widely regarded as South Africa's leading wine writer.
He has been the driving force behind the modernisation and internationalisation of the South African wine industry. In particular, he organised the SAA Shield in 1995 that saw South Africa trounced by the Australians - one decisive moment that led to local producers following a riper, more Australian style supposedly in line with the expectations of the international market. He has also had a key role in instigating the renaissance of Chenin Blanc.
Fridjhon is also something of whistle-blower. He was the only commentator with sufficient standing in the industry to expose the 2004 Sauvignon Blanc additives scandal and he recently suggested that many producers were indulging in the illegal practice of adding water to their wine to lower alcohol levels.
Politically active, he is a past chairman of the South African Wine Industry Trust, which oversees black empowerment in the industry as well as overseeing export strategy and research in oenology and viticulture.
He has judged in countless wine competitions and is currently co-convener along with WINE magazine of the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, now in its fifth year. Some observers feel that this presents a possible conflict of interest given that he is also consultant to some of the top producers in the country.
He has also established the Michael Fridjhon WINE Experience as an annual benchmarking event and re-invented the country's biggest wine show in the form of WineX.
4. John Platter
Founder of the John Platter
South African Wine Guide
The Platter guide certainly influences what wine the public drink in South Africa, many basing their purchasing decisions on the star rating a particular label has achieved in the current edition.
But what individual person representing the Platter guide to put on the list? John Platter together with his wife Erica founded the guide back in 1980, but they have not been directly involved in the running of it since they sold it to publishing company Creda after the 1997 edition. Andrew McDowall subsequently bought the title and has published the guide since the 2000 edition. Philip van Zyl, meanwhile, took over from Erica Platter as editor from the 1999 edition.
After deliberation, Platter gets on the list as the name the broad public associates with the guide even though his direct influence over wine is now negligible.
As to the impact of the guide itself, it is important to note that all but the 5 Star ratings are generated on the basis of sighted tastings whereas WINE magazine tastings are conducted blind and are arguably less partial as a result.
5. Linley Schultz
Chief Winemaker, Distell
In a word, Schultz is the man ultimately responsible for the overwhelmingly biggest range of South African wine.
Distell is South Africa's largest wine producer and Schultz is the group's general manager of wine production. This requires him to manage the processing
of 150 million litres of wine every year.
Included in this is 9,9 million litres of Nederburg, which was the biggest brand in terms of sales in the high price sector of the domestic market in 2005 as well as Overmeer and Drostdy-Hof, the biggest and second-biggest brands in the medium-priced sector.
An Australian national, Schultz joined Distell in November 2001. His previous experience included time with such well-known Australian wine companies as BRL Hardy and Southcorp (owner of Penfolds and Lindemans among others). There can be no doubt that Distell employed him with the brief of directing a new, more modern style for their wines across all price-points.
6. Danie de Wet
Owner of De Wetshof and Chairman of KWV Group Limited
De Wet took over the running of family-owned Robertson farm De Wetshof in 1972, after studying at the Geisenheim Wine Institute in Germany where he gained a diploma in viticulture and cellar technology. He has subsequently proved to be one of South Africa's most innovative winemakers.
De Wet's achievements are numerous: he has been a key figure in uplifting the reputation of Robertson, with De Wets-hof becoming the first registered estate in the district in 1972. He was also the first to produce dry white wines in the region, with Chardonnay proving particularly successful: the De Wetshof Chardonnay 1985 was awarded the Grand Prix D'Honneur out of more than 900 wines worldwide at the 1987 Vinexpo in Bordeaux, while De Wet was Diners Club Winemaker of the Year in 1993 for his De Wetshof Finesse, an unwooded Chardonnay of the same vintage.
An ambitious character, De Wet caused a stir when in 1992 he broke away from Bergkelder, the marketing body run by the then Distiller's Corporation and representative of some of the most prestigious producers in the country. He subsequently developed an export-led sales paradigm for De Wetshof that has been an inspiration for many.
Where De Wet has had particular influence over the wine styles that prevail today was in his position as the chairman of the South African National Wine Show Association between 1995 and 2004. Begun in 1990, Veritas is probably the most important wine competition in the country if only by virtue of being the most long-lived. It has been criticised for its awards not amounting to much on account of the excessive number handed out, as well as judging panels being parochial.
De Wet has been chairman of the KWV since 2004 and is involved in the ongoing transformation of this institution, especially with regard to black empowerment.
7. Carrie Adams
Partner, Norman Goodfellows
With branches in Hyde Park and Illovo, Norman Goodfellows is arguably South Africa's most significant purveyor of fine wines and spirits.
Carrie Adams, a Master of Wine in training, is a partner in the business, and acts as wine buyer. More than any other individual, she influences the purchasing decisions of the consumer in the biggest and most important region of the domestic market.
Ever discreet, Adams won't say more about her client base than to describe it as "enviable" and refuses to be drawn on how much wine contributes to turnover as she doesn't like "bragging."
In addition to her interest in Norman Goodfellows, she is also involved in online and mail-order vendor Wine Direct, distribution company Hook & Lambert (representing such wineries as Hartenberg, Paul Cluver and Waterford), distribution and warehouse company Panniers as well as having a share in Agulhas Wines.
8. Stephanus Eksteen
National Wine Buyer, Shoprite group
The supermarkets inevitably dominate the spend of the country's casual wine drinkers, but who's doing the best overall job?
The Spar group has by far the biggest footprint, with 551 of its Spar stores licensed to sell wine while it also runs a further 86 TOPS at SPAR liquor stores with more to come on line.
As to who has the biggest market share, it bears mentioning that this data is extraordinarily hard to come by. The general consensus is that Pick 'n Pay is the biggest in terms of volume followed by Shoprite Checkers, and how the likes of Spar, Makro and Woolworths stack up is a matter of speculation.
Upon reflection, the Shoprite group gets acknowledged as South Africa's most forward thinking wine retailer at present.
It arguably caters for the widest range of consumers: its 220 Shoprite outlets provide for the emerging market featuring large-volume, value-for-money brands while its 115 Checkers supermarkets and Hyperamas serve a more affluent clientele with a strong accent on the wines of estates and small producers. It also has 50 general liquor licences in the rest of Africa Part of the strategy has been to position wine along with quality cheeses and the group has advertised heavily. Where other groups seek to strip wine down to its barest and sell on discount, the Checkers chain, at least on the face of it, is trying to add value to the shopping experience.
As the individual responsible for stocking Shoprite and Checkers, Eksteen makes the list.
9. Tim Rands
Managing Director, Vinimark
Wine marketing is in a sorry state: witness the fact that national consumption has been declining from a total of 9,01 litres per capita in 2001 to 7,65 in 2004. However, if there is one company that is undertaking its wholesaling and distribution activities with verve and imagination then it is Vinimark, the largest independent entity of its kind.
Vinimark was formed in 1985 by Tim Rands, who continues to run the business as managing director.
Some of the more significant producers in the company's portfolio include Boland (14,5 million litres a year), Robertson Winery (20 million litres a year) and Winecorp (including Spier and Longridge).
Vinimark also enjoys sole agency rights in South Africa for such prestigious international producers as Bollinger (Champagne), Paul Jaboulet (Rhône), and Villa Maria (New Zealand).
Rands was also instrumental in setting up leading Franschhoek winery Boekenhoutskloof, which he acquired with partners in 1993. Today, this enterprise incorporates The Chocolate Block, Porcupine Ridge and The Wolftrap brands in addition to the highly rated Cabernet Sauvignon, Semillon and Syrah under the flagship label. Total production amounts to one million litres with Vinimark again handling sales and distribution.
A further indication of Rands' influence in determining which wines get listed where is his involvement in premium wine wholesaler Wine Worx, started in 2001 and representing such labels as Flagstone, Glen Carlou and Veenwouden.
10. Mike Paul
Managing Director, Western Wines
Paul is in charge of Kumala, the largest South African brand and fourth overall in the UK, by far South Africa's most important export market. In the year to date, it sold 2,4 million cases.
Given Kumala's success, it is exasperating that no South African company can take credit for it, as the brand belongs to Western Wines, a British wine importer and distributor owned by Canada's dominant wine company, Vincor, since the end of 2004.
What is also of concern is that the success of Kumala has not depended on Western Wines marketing the wine as inherently South African.
The brand's sourcing and logistics in South Africa are done in partnership with the super-efficient but somewhat anonymous Origin Wines. This means that Western Wines is not required to become overly concerned about the wine's place of origin, but through Origin can concentrate on securing big volumes and driving hard bargains with local grape growers to ensure that it can go to market with a product that is competitively priced.
While Kumala's success in the last while is admirable, it does send a specific message to the industry concerning what is viable and could see even more local producers gearing their activities to cater for the mass market. In addition, if Kumala is the only reference point that the international market has of South African wine, this results in a skewed opinion of the quality that South Africa is capable of.
CLOSE BUT NO CIGAR
Colin Collard
Owner, The Wine-of-the-Month Club
The Wine-of-the-Month Club was established in 1986 and supplies wine direct to over 40 000 customers throughout South Africa and its neighbouring countries. Just how dictatorial are they when it comes to deciding what gets bought?
Su Birch
CEO of Wines Of South Africa
As head of WOSA, the not-for-profit company that represents all local wine exporters, Birch bears the brunt of fronting the industry in the global arena but can't be said to be directly influencing wine styles.
Bruce Jack
Owner and Winemaker, Flagstone
Progressive in his approach to winemaking, unconventional in his approach to marketing, he is the next generation's Charles Back.
Eben Sadie
Owner and winemaker, Sadie Family Wines
The philosopher king. But at R400 a bottle for his Rhône-style blend Columella, who actually gets to drink the stuff?
André van Rensburg
Winemaker, Vergelegen
The doyen of South African winemakers. But is he in the same class as Australia's Brian Croser, for instance?
Beyers Truter
Co-owner and winemaker, Beyerskloof
He almost single-handedly resuscitated Pinotage and was responsible for Kanonkop's golden era during the 1990s, but he's been off the pace the last few vintages.
Dave Hughes
Wine writer
Hughes is one of the foremost authorities on South African wine, but arguably has a bigger following abroad.
Marilyn Cooper
Principal of the Cape Wine Academy
As head of the Cape Wine Academy, she is in a unique position to help grow the local wine culture. Sadly, the CWA never seems to fulfil its true potential.
Jancis Robinson MW
UK critic
A surrogate Robert Parker, it is arguable that the top end of the local market makes wine to please her. Pity she shows so little interest in South Africa then.
Kevin Watt
Viticulturist
There are others, such as Eben Archer, but Watt is probably the most high profile of a fairly inconspicuous bunch. If great wine is made in the vineyard, why aren't our viticulturists more celebrated?
The Corporate
Executives
Grey and faceless, you know who you are. South Africa has yet to produce wine companies the equivalent of Gallo, Mondavi and Southcorp.
Gavin Pieterse
Chairperson, South African
Wine Industry Trust
Ultimately the man in charge of facilitating transformation in the industry. If it's not happening fast enough, perhaps he should reassess his own activities before accusing the industry of being reactionary.
Michael Stadler
Wine Buyer, Tesco
British supermarket Tesco is the largest single importer of Cape wine and Stadler is chiefly responsible for selection. You better believe he's determining stylistic direction...
Detlev Kohler
Senior Manager of Procurement, SAA
Kohler spends R20 million on local wine in an effort to showcase it to the world. Sadly, what gets served onboard never seems to live up to expectations.
