Swartberg Pass: The gateway to the Klein Karoo
THE ROUTE
Drinking wine and concentrating on the road don’t exactly mix – especially if it’s a 24km dirt pass! So think of this as a story about a route between cellars.
Ideally, approach the Little Karoo from the N1 and spend a night in picturesque Prince Albert. (For suggestions on where to eat and stay, go to www.winemag.co.za and search for ‘Prince Albert’). From this historic town, meander through the Swartberg Pass to join up with the R328. Then head in the direction of Oudtshoorn, passing the turn-off to the Cango Caves.
Be sure to take heed of the sign warning that the narrow, winding Swartberg Pass is not suitable for caravans and heavy vehicles. After winter snow or heavy rains the pass is usually closed.
SWARTBERG PASS
For a description, what better than Getaway magazine’s recently published Passes and Poorts in the Western Cape, edited by Marion Whitehead: “The sheer scale of the towering cliffs, weathered sandstone, deep ravines and unparalleled vistas, to both the north and south, make this 24-kilometre untarred pass through a natural World Heritage Site one of the most spectacular in South Africa. Dramatic cliff faces expose tortured rocks, where layers of solidified sediments laid down millions of years ago have been concertinaed and folded like pliable cardboard.”
A special brochure published by Helena Marincowitz to commemorate the centenary of the opening added, “as the road snakes higher and higher around the hairpin bends, you become aware of the fresh, clean mountain air with its pleasant herbal scents. The large variety of fynbos – a wealth of proteas, ericas, cone bushes and restios – is a joy to the eye.”
Thomas Bain’s creation, built using convict labour and officially opened in 1888, is now a national monument. It’s not a drive for the faint-hearted – sheer cliff faces and switchback bends rise to 1585m above sea level. There are several look-out points and picnic spots along the route, but be sure to stop at ‘Die Top’, the pinnacle of the pass, where views extend over the Little Karoo and Outeniqua Mountains to the south and, to the north, the Great Karoo as far as the Nuweveld Mountains beyond Beaufort West.
FIRST STOP: SOETKAROO IN PRINCE ALBERT
As one of the smallest cellars in South Africa (just under 1ha of Hanepoot, Muscadel, Petit Verdot and Touriga Naçional vines), a visit to SoetKaroo is mandatory, not just because it is the only cellar in Prince Albert, situated behind the family home on the main street; not because the fascination is in the small size of operation; not because the excellence of the soetes justifies going so far off the beaten track; but essentially because of the enthusiasm displayed by cellarmaster Susan and her husband, academic-turned-viticulturist, Herman Perold. So, while one of them is sure to be there at most times, phone ahead to book your visit.
A ‘tour’ (you can stand on one spot and see all the processes, tanks and single barrel!) and a tasting, along with Susan’s enthusiastic description of juggling harvest, hand-selection of grapes, hand bottling and labelling, including awards stickers and receipt of an SA Terroir Award (among others) all make for an entertaining experience.
On offer is a 2010 red Muscat d’Alexandrie (Hanepoot, R90) and a Touriga Naçional (R95), as well as some smaller productions with very limited availability but worth discussing with Susan. Tel 023541 1768; www.soetkaroo.co.za
SECOND STOP: KARUSA
After visiting SoetKaroo, consider spending the night at one of the many home-away-from-home guesthouses in Prince Albert. Following breakfast, enjoy the two-hour traverse of the Swartberg Pass and arrive at Karusa in Schoemanshoek late morning, having booked an appointment in the tasting room (pictured above) with the co-owner and cellarmaster Jacques Conradie. Watch carefully for the turn-off, about 18 kilometres after the Cango Caves – roughly 15km out of Oudtshoorn – and look out for the Dutch Reformed Church in the valley, a useful landmark next to the farm.
Jacques was a member of the team that produced the Graham Beck Brut chosen by Barack Obama to celebrate his election victory. He offers an interesting explanation (the right altitude, slope and soil) on how the Klein Karoo can produce not just soetes, but also some intriguing still wines, such as the 12 that he has in Karusa’s range: three Cap Classiques, three easy-drinking ‘lifestyle’ wines, four single-varietal wines and two reservecollection wines (Syrah/Viognier and Chardonnay/Viognier). And, apparently, he is working on a micro-brewery project.
Don’t miss a discussion with him – and then stay for wife Saretha’s tapas (delicious breads, cheeses, olives and ostrich carpaccio) on the veranda of their neat, modern tasting room. They also have fruit-packing operations onpremises, handling nectarines, apricots, plums and a new cross-bred ‘pluots’ – a cross between the latter two! (All cellar activities are handled at Excelsior Vlakteplaas at nearby De Rust.) Tel 044-272 8717; www.karusa.co.za
THIRD STOP (MAYBE!): KANGO WINES
Situated in Oudtshoorn, close to the town centre, Kango Wine’s Wijnhuis tasting room has a wide range of still, sparkling and fortified wines from the co-op members with a typically comfortable wine-shop-style atmosphere – but, sadly, at the time of writing, the business was in liquidation and its wines were being sold off at discounts. With a garden for children, delicious cheese platters, visits to the nearby cellar, wine and chocolate tastings and other visitor attractions, this must surely be an interesting target for prospective investors – and visitors. Tel 044 272 6065
ALSO CONSIDER
Once in Oudtshoorn, take the art, cheese, chocolate and liqueur route, an enterprising initiative by four tourist destinations. First, Grundheim (tel 044-272 6927) where Danie Grundling and his son, Dys, the sixth generation of owners, specialise in fortified wines, pot-still brandies, witblits and liqueurs – and offer a relaxing tasting experience out in the country – 17km from the centre of Oudtshoorn. A fun gift is the six-pack of 50ml liqueurs.
Next stop is Rococo (tel 084-232 5991), a chocolaterie at 86 Langenhoven Road in Oudtshoorn where Marita Lamprecht and her husband Dinky make chocolates to die for – and also present wine and chocolate pairings. Trained in Belgium and using only the best ingredients, Marita’s passion for her work makes a visit there a must. (Look out for the April issue of Wine in which we look a chocolate-making and wine pairing.)
And, close by, is another equally passionate entrepreneur, Sonja Ferreira at Tantinki (tel 083-340 5821; 45 Langenhoven Road) who, from a very simple building, produces a range of goat’s milk products including delicious cheeses, yoghurt, butter, fudge, ice cream and even toilet soap and skin creams. “The biggest range of goat’s milk products in the country,” she enthuses.
Finally, for real entertainment, there is moooi@jamstreet, as eccentric an art gallery, coffee shop and flower garden as you will find anywhere. Five kilometres out of Oudtshoorn, Danie du Plessis and Wim Rheeder have renovated a cow shed, using a wide variety of waste materials, Karoo plants and unusual graphic designs, adding an outdoor bar and entertainment area, along with an amphitheatre which is used for events and public shows, particularly at the KKNK festival. There is also a contemporarily-decorated, self-catering cottage sleeping five on-site. (Tel 082-510 0516; Rooiheuwel Road off Langenhoven Road).
An alternative scenic route to the one described on the previous pages is to cross the Swartberg Pass from Oudtshoorn to Prince Albert, then take the loop along the R407 and N12 through the equallystriking Meiringspoort, a route that offers a further three wineries; Bergwater, Mons Ruber and Domein Doornkraal – but that’s a story for another time…
Then there is nearby Calitzdorp where there are numerous wine-tasting opportunities (go to www.winemag.co.za and search for ‘Port tasting in Calitzdorp’ for more on the area and its wine offerings).
And lots, lots more in and around Oudtshoorn: history, ostrich farms, the Cango caves, a wide variety of accommodation, good restaurants, particularly the Colony at the Queen’s, Bello Sibo, Jemima’s and Kalinka.
USEFUL CONTACTS
Prince Albert Tourism tel 023 541 1366; www.patourism.co.za
Oudtshoorn Tourism tel 044 279 2532; www.oudtshoorn.com
Cango Caves tel 044-272 7410; www.cango-caves.co.za
Klein Karoo Wine Route tel 028-572 1284; www.kleinkaroowines.co.za
