West Coast travelling: Paternoster and Lambert's Bay
This time of year an epidemic of holiday spirit breaks out. People prone to this disease should immediately fill their boots with white wine and head up the West Coast – to indulge, not cure symptoms.
If I could only stay for another day or two… or a week, a month. Forever. South Africa’s West Coast has always been a haven for fishermen who looked to the ocean to sustain their livelihoods. They row out on the blue waters until their colourful boats become a spec on the horizon where they wait for the fish to bite. They are not the only ones who wait. On boulders, bleached by sun and guano, gulls wait in anticipation for the fishermen to return to shore with their catch, and when they do, the grey and white birds take to flight in unison to beg for little scraps and treats.
In the doorways of the whitewashed fishermen’s cottages women stand, and they also wait for something for the pot. At the fish market buyers congregate to see what the catch of the day might be. Snoek, ‘hotnotsvis’ and lobster are lifted from the boats, and even before reaching the sort tables the bargaining starts.
Here the pace of life complements the tides with breakfast, lunch and dinner determined by the mood of the sun and moon. There’s little else to be done except submit to the whims of the gods. Therefore, when visiting the West Coast, pack a book, a hat and plenty of crisp white wine, because chances are you’ll be waiting for the boats to return to shore… and when they do, you will be best advised braaing the catch of the day with a glass of wine in hand.
In terms of the latter priority, the West Coast is especially well-positioned as many of this year’s stand-out examples of white wines are being produced in the area. A short trip to Paternoster via the small town of Darling and a sun-drenched expedition up to Lambert’s Bay is enough to put you in touch with some of SA’s finest whites to drink this summer. Therefore, in pursuit of beach and wine, this is exactly what I did.
The methodology of this journey was straightforward enough, but I realised, once more, that nothing prepares one for the beauty of the coastline that stretches from Cape Town up to Namibia’s border. In Paternoster I was seduced by a sensual boutique guesthouse and I was infinitely attracted to the ‘primitive’ landscape and lifestyle at Lambert’s Bay.
A short drive from Cape Town you find Paternoster, a fishermen’s village of white hamlets. It is clear from the booming development of houses that this quaint town has long since been discovered by weary city slickers looking for a break from high-rise buildings, but even though the seasonal migration has brought with it some bad habits (children begging from tourists, petty crime) the influx of people means that hospitality is booming.
Traditionally a visit to Paternoster wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to Voorstrand, a restaurant right on the beach, but this restaurant isn’t the top recommendation in town anymore. Instead, it is places like Saffron at Abalone House, Gaatjie and Noisy Oyster which are the culinary hotspots locals recommend.
Abalone House, a dreamily beautiful boutique guesthouse in town, was opened by Johan Jansen van Vuuren and Stef Venter in February this year, and it is, for all holiday purposes, the place which just ticks all the boxes.
The spacious building incorporates wooden beams – oyster beds rescued from the beach – and interiors of plush carpets, orchids and a myriad Tretchikoff prints which spill out onto an intimate courtyard with a wooden deck, lap pool and birdcages. It is like stepping into a scene from India, and it is every bit as sensual. This space, in turn, leads to individual rooms which, with their beachcoloured finishes complete a picture-perfect world. If you aren’t already seduced then chef Darren Stewart’s signature Gateau St Honore – a cake filled with creamy layers – which is served at afternoon tea surely will.
At sunset the roof deck area turns into a romantic corner where lazing on sunbeds or sipping wine in the Jacuzzi is the order of the day. Here we lift our glasses of Darling Bushvine Sauvignon Blanc while the forlorn cries of gulls slow the pace of the day down to an adagio. For dinner, guests gather at the on-site Saffron restaurant, where Welsh-born chef Darren Stewart is head-of-kitchen and prepares dishes from produce mainly sourced from the sea. The wine list here is worth a mention too as it is carefully thought-out and comprehensive, and also very well-priced.
On the wine list you’ll spot Sir Lambert Sauvignon Blanc, a wine made from vineyards that grow some 100km north from Paternoster, in Lambert’s Bay, which is my next stop. For this second leg of the journey I was accompanied by Diemersdal winemaker Thys Louw who, together with partners Johan Teubes, a wine farmer from Vredendal and John Hayes (a purebred wine enthusiast) are the hands behind Sir Lambert Sauvignon Blanc – a wine that almost made it into the Sauvignon Blanc Top 10 this year (see page 91 for the full results).
The Sir Lambert vines enjoy views and cooling sea breezes from the ocean which is situated a mere 3km from the vineyards. Thanks to this maritime clime, says Johan, this area is the “coolest wine-producing area in South Africa”. You taste the climatic factors in the wine too, with cool-climate minerality evident in this Sauvignon Blanc. “If this was a woman, you’d be getting everything she promised you,” laughs John. “Yes,” agrees Thys. “She is soft, elegant, sensual and sexy.”
Thys knows a thing or two about making a decent Sauvignon Blanc (his maiden release of Sauvignon.com made it into the Sauvignon Blanc Top 10 this year), but if there is another thing that he is equally passionate about it is seafood. Proper, freshly caught West Coast fish. “Ouboet wanneer kom die bote in?” (Ouboet when do the boats come in?) he enquires at the harbour, but the fishermen aren’t about to return soon. Pressed for time we opt to enjoy lunch at the legendary seafood eat-as-muchas- you-can Muisbosskerm restaurant… which, it turns out, isn’t a rushed affair at all.
Now owned by brothers Ian and Tertius Turner, Muisbosskerm open-air restaurant offers, without a doubt, one of the best food experiences in South Africa. A selection of fish, caught that morning, are hauled out on sort tables, braaied, deep-fried, baked and presented to diners. There is also seafood paella, lobster, waterblommetjie bredie and freshly baked bread on the buffet. If ever there was a seafood heaven, then this restaurant on the beach is surely it. Of course, all dishes are matched with Sir Lambert Sauvignon Blanc 2010; Thys clearly made this wine with days like these in mind.
It is with a couple of fond memories, and quite an impressive tan, that I return to the hustle and bustle of Cape Town. But I will go back. Maybe just for a day, a week or forever...
WHERE TO STAY
Abalone House rates are R995 per person sharing and include breakfast and afternoon tea.
Tel: 022 752 2044
Those looking for a self-catering alternative would be wise to consider Sugar Shack, a cosy, yet spacious, hideout that has been decorated in soft pastel colours. The plush lounge opens up onto a big deck with braai. Rates from 15 December 2010 to 15 January 2011 are R2 750 for the house per night (sleeps six). Tel: 082 828 5168
In Lambert’s Bay you can stay amidst the Sir Lambert vines at Xamarin Guest Farm. Rates are R400 to R600 per unit per night. Tel: 083 270 4706
WHERE TO STOP?
GROOTE POST
Monday to Friday, 9:00 to 17:00, Saturday
and Sunday 10:00 to 16:00
Tel: 022 492 2825
ORMONDE
Monday to Friday, 9:00 to 16:00, Saturday
and Sunday 9:00 to 13:00
Tel: 022 492 3540
DARLING CELLARS
Monday to Thursday 8:00 to 17:00, Friday
8:00 to 16:00, Saturday 10:00 to 14:00
Tel: 022 492 2276
WITHINGTON
The farm is not open to the public, but
tastings are available at Marmalade Cat,
5 Main Street, Darling
Tel:022 492 3971
SIR LAMBERT
Tastings by appointment
Tel: 021 976 3361
