Each of the trio of fine, complex reds that this issue delves into has its own story, but one that has a truly memorable and historical allure is that of Port.

It continues to be well-loved and particularly favoured around log fires during those misty, wintry days as an after-dinner grand finalé, and nowadays occasionally served chilled as an aperitif. One of the most intriguing features is perhaps how it derived its name.

 

From the Douro Valley in Portugal, Port achieved acclaim from receivers of this export. Leaving the port of Portugal, Oporto, as part of the export process the barrels were stamped for departure on each end with the name of the departure point, ‘Oporto'.

The stamps were not measured to fit the circumference of the barrels carrying this imprint, and it so happened that each ‘O' was left off from either side - with the result that the barrels came to bear the stamp of ‘Port', retaining this name into present times.

It is a fortified wine loved the world over and most likely will have lasting stature. Such impressions leave their imprint, a mark of pioneering times.

With the passing of an iconic figure in our local wine world, Ross Gower, it is fitting to acknowledge his contributions and accomplishments; the remarkable footprint he has left in South African wine. To give credence to this, it's only appropriate that a close friend, Allan Mullins, could encapsulate some of his career.

Allan notes that Ross chose a winemaking path at the age of 13 and, after qualifying in Germany and some travels to New Zealand, he became the first winemaker at Klein Constantia.

His first vintage in 1986 was widely hailed and the Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon are still regarded as benchmarks in the evolution of South African wines. The Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc 1986 received 5 Stars in 1996. Over the next 19 years he added Chardonnay, Riesling, Shiraz and Marlbrook, a red Bordeaux blend, to his stable of Klein Constantia wines.

Allan adds, "Perhaps one of Ross' proudest achievements was his Vin de Constance which signalled the renaissance of the legendary 18th- and 19thcentury Constantia. This wine had been much sought after by luminaries such as Napoleon, Frederick the Great, Bismarck and the kings of France and England, and written about by the likes of Charles Dickens, Baudelaire and Jane Austen.

After intensive research, Ross kept as close as possible to the original formula and made his wine from extremely ripe, raisin-like Muscat de Frontignac grapes, one of the varieties which had been used in the original Constantia wine."

Ross turned his attention to a farm in the Elgin Valley in 2003 and set about turning this into a piece of wine heaven as the family made Ross Gower Wines. It was no surprise that in WINE magazine's 2009 Méthode Cap Classique Challenge, his 2007 was chosen as the winner of the Rosé category.

On a personal note, Allan remembers Ross' hands which, like him, were large, strong and red-wine stained, much admired by many winemakers who thought them to be ‘of a true winemaker'.

He commemorates, "How right they were. Rossco, my dear friend - I will always remember you. Cheers, until we crack our next bottle together."

In the tapestry of time, like many of the stories that leave a legacy behind, Ross Gower has left a stamp in our history and, in moments of introspection while pondering some of the mysteries of existence, we raise a glass of the good and the great to celebrate those of the same calibre.