A trip to Spier Wine Estate

Something for everyone

With its embracing of African art, culture and cuisine, not to mention its resident cheetahs, the Spier experience is tourist heaven, even for locals, says Leigh Robertson.

 

Of all the Cape winelands destinations geared to attracting both globetrotters and day-tripping locals, Spier near Stellenbosch is most likely to be the one on our lips. Perhaps it's because of its ability to diversify and reinvent itself, as it's done over the past decade. Who hasn't sipped a glass of Spier wine in this pretty setting with its gabled white buildings alongside the Eerste River? Or watched opera or a good show beneath a canopy of stars in the amphitheatre, picnicked on the willow-shaded banks of the lake, ogled at contemporary art installations spread across its well-maintained grounds, dined on pap en vleis or tagines in the imaginatively Africanised setting of Moyo restaurant or perhaps even petted a cheetah here? Even if you haven't, your neighbour probably has.

There are certainly few other places in the wine-growing regions that manage to offer a total tourism "experience" beyond just wine, food and scenery, and to do it well, to boot. Which is one of the reasons why this sprawling "collection of experiences" (you can't call it an estate or a resort - Platter's calls it a "multi-faceted tourist mecca") is so perennially popular. Conversely, it's also why some spoilt-for-choice Capeys who've done the picnics, drunk the wine and, well, bought the tee-shirt, tend to steer clear of it when planning that little winelands jaunt. Call it fear of tour buses or just plan agoraphobia, the thought of mingling with the masses in a packaged environment can be somewhat off -putting, no matter how attractive the package is known to be.

It comes as a surprise when you find yourself at Spier again after a lengthy absence and you remember all the fun times you've had here. For me, summer concerts following casual sunset suppers sprawled on the lawn with friends, and superbly curated art exhibitions that have occupied interior and exterior spaces across the grounds, inviting you to engage (glass of Spier wine in hand, always) with artworks and venue alike.

Yes, the happy thronging crowds on a Saturday morning, busily moving from the craft market to wine tasting and deli areas, can be faintly alarming when it's a bit of relaxation you fancy. But it takes just moments to note how everything is well presented and efficiently run: there are clearly marked signs all over and no shortage of parking and clean, working loos, and some attractive options for eating and drinking.

There are the neatly-turned out staff who greet and smile, and seemingly no shortage of things to do... No wonder it's so popular. Like Table Mountain and Robben Island, it's a great place to play at being a tourist. What's interesting is how quickly you're willing to part with the glib asides, even as another group of big-boned American girls with fancy cameras strides past, en route to shop for papier maché kudu trophies in the adjacent craft market, unified with the rest by the swirls of white dots on their faces; guess who's just lunched at Moyo?

But a pleasant meandering stroll through the grounds, along pathways fringed with indigenous plants and flowers in full bloom, beneath trees gently vibrating with the scurrying of squirrels while the river babbles along and just steps away, leads you away from the hubbub entirely.

Staying Over?

Checking into a suite at the 4 Star Spier Hotel we are struck by how peaceful it is here; clearly this is not a weekend of conferences, for which Spier is a top venue choice. But even then, the village-style layout of the hotel with its 155 rooms spread out in elegant double-storey structures reminiscent of the vernacular of Bo-Kaap homes lends itself to feeling as if you might be the only people there. We love that, for the duration of our stay, we can hop on a zippy little golf cart to be ferried between the hotel and surrounding amenities, despite feeling guiltily like fat tourists too lazy to enjoy the not-terribly-demanding walk.

The hotel has moved into the realm of the "hip" variety thanks to a recent makeover, with reception area to suites and rooms revitalised with a modern African aesthetic. Spaces are infused with bright colours and playful touches, such as the acid greendyed kudu skin cushions scattered on mismatched sofas in the vast lounge and bar area. And wherever you look are examples of Spier's amazing collection of contemporary African art. The walls of the adjoining restaurant, for instance, are adorned with striking works that on closer inspection are revealed to have been crafted from beads.

Here we lunch on fish and chips - the restaurant serves a simple day-menu that includes wraps, pastas and salads, and veers more towards fine dining by night - before hailing a golf cart to the Wine Welcome Centre. A leisurely wine tasting is an excellent way to while away a rainy afternoon, and it's heartening to see so many others share the sentiment.

Groups of students and trendily-dressed youths huddle together at their tables looking quite serious about the contents of their glasses, while we busy ourselves choosing wines from the Vintage Selection and Private Selection ranges. Using the spittoon feels somewhat unnecessary with the knowledge there won't be any driving, but then, who wants to spit when you have the multi-award winning Private Collection Chenin Blanc 2006 (4½ Stars in Platter's) in your glass?

Magical Moyo

Later, after cranking up the gas heater in our stylish black-and-white-themed suite and watching a football match on one of the big flat-screen TVs at our disposal (along with more glasses of the Chenin), we dine literally up in the trees at Moyo.

By night this ever-busy eatery (with sister establishments in Gauteng) takes on a quite magical quality with its water features, glimmering lanterns strung among the branches and fires emitting their warming glow from decoratively carved drums. African rhythms thrum from below, where the main tented seating area alongside the buffet features ongoing performances of music and dance. We note with amusement the mirth of the staff, from a united nations' worth of African countries, as they watch diners leap on to the stage to try their hand at some of the moves. And then we return with laden plates (venison, spiced dorado, Cape Malay-style mussels, morogo) to our eyrie-like table. Wrapped in the thick blankets that are provided for guests, we switch between bottles of Spier's bling-smattered Private Collection Shiraz 2005 and Private Collection Pinotage 2005 (3½ Stars and 3 Stars in WINE magazine respectively) both of which pair well with the spicy flavours on our plates.

Next to us an Australian couple wax lyrical about their time in the Cape as we share the rest of our Pinotage with them. We depart for bed feeling somewhat proud after their parting words; yes, lucky us indeed to have a place like this just half an hour from where we call home.

10 THINGS TO DO AT SPIER

1. Discover the wines. While visits to the actual cellar are not available, virtually the full spectrum of Spier's impressive output, under the direction of cellar master Frans Smit, can be tasted in the historic tasting room or Wine Welcome Centre. Tel 021 809 1143.

2. Stroke a cheetah. The Cheetah Outreach project on Spier is a mustvisit as it allows you a rare chance to engage with these amazing creatures ("ambassadors" for educational and fund-raising purposes for the Cheetah Conservation Fund).

3. Have an encounter with eagles. And other raptors that have been rescued by Eagle Encounters, a bird of prey conservation, education and eco-tourism project housed at Spier. Rehabilitated birds are returned to the wild.

4. Book a massage. Or body wrap, facial, pedicure and more indulgent treats, at the Camelot Spa located at the Spier Hotel. Tel 021 809 1931.

5. Dine at Moyo. In an enchanting garden setting. The show put on by Third World Bunfight is very good, while if you spend time considering the massive array of dishes on offer at the buffet, you can have a satisfying meal (R225 pp). Flavours veer towards Moroccan, with meat lovers and vegetarians catered for. Lunch & dinner daily. Tel 021 809 1133.

6. Do the picnic thing. Browse the Deli for whatever takes your fancy or pre-order a picnic hamper, then find a spot under the trees to enjoy along with a bottle of wine or two. Tel 021 809 1983.

7. Be arty. Spier's Performing Arts Festival has had several incarnations, the most recent being "Infecting the City", with performances around Cape Town (www.infectingthecity.com). On the visual arts side, the Spier Contemporary 2010 is the largest exhibition in SA, showcasing work by artists in a variety of media. Opens in March 2010 (www.spiercontemporary.co.za).

8. Taste the flavours of the Cape. The Jonkerhuis serves Cape-inspired fare such as bredies, curries and seafood. Sit inside or on the terrace under the oaks. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Tel 021 809 1159.

9. Get crafty. The outdoor craft market has a wonderful selection of tasteful, quality African artworks from beadwork to textiles. Open daily, weather permitting.

10. Do an architectural tour. Stroll the grounds to view the Slave Bell (C. 1825) and six original gables, of which two are Hobol gables from the 18th century. The Manor House, built in 1822, is currently undergoing intensive restoration.

No Greenwashing

All of Spier's primary businesses, hotel to restaurants and farming initiatives, subscribe to the vision of sustainable and green business practices. The Spier Hotel was one of the first in the country to be accredited by Fair Trade in Tourism South Africa, while Spier Wines was the first local wine business to be accredited by the Wine Industry Ethical Trading Association (both in 2004). A member of the Biodiversity & Wine Initiative, Spier aims to have 25% of its land in conservation by 2017. Carbon footprints are measured, water usage monitored and waste recycling practiced with zeal.