SA's best sundowner spots
Happy hour
Quick, the sun's going down! Round up your friends and unwind with a drink at some of SA's favourite summer sunset hotspots... By Leigh Robertson and Anne Fleming.
If ever there was a peculiar excuse to have a drink, it's surely got to be the sundowners one. The whole point is to be there, drink in hand, in time for the sun to go down.
Post-work and pre-dinner time may be when more responsible people head off to the gym, or jump onto their bicycles, or put in a few sensible domestic chores before sitting down to a nice cup of tea.
But regular sundowner types are generally a happier bunch (in spite of the love handles from all the wine, salty snacks and forfeited gym memberships), forever rounding up friends, waifs and strays to share in this most convivial of customs. It's for good reason that happy hour is called happy hour. Barring the two-forthe- price-of-one drinks thing, it normally kicks in around sunset.
Cheers to another shitty day in paradise! Really, what's not to like about raising a glass to the end of your day's labours, or simply toasting the fact that the sun's about to dip into the sea or sneak behind that picturesque mountain range?
It's not just about finding any old bar and ordering any old drink. Oh no. Aesthetics, ambience and a great view to gaze at while the windingdown process plays out are quintessential to the sundowner experience, as is having something pleasant and wet to wash it down with.
Western Cape people are pretty smug about the fact that "their" sun sets into the ocean and, indeed, it's a rather wonderful sight to behold - even though most people are still waiting to catch that famous "green flash" that's said to occur just as the last bit of sun slips into the silvery water.
But you do not necessarily require a sea to have great sundowners, as you'll find in our guide to this summer's best spots, from the Cape to Gauteng, brought to you in the spirit of holidays and happy hour and, well, just because...
WESTERN CAPE TABLE MOUNTAIN CAFÉ
Table Mountain, Cape Town,
Tel 021424 0015
While Capetonians are cynical about doing touristy things, some of the city's best experiences do require joining the ranks in their safari clothes - and there is no better place to watch the sun go down than the top of Table Mountain with its gobsmacking 360° views.
Throw in a dinky bottle of not-too-bad Cape wine, served in a perfectly good plastic wine glass, and a hunk of cheese and packet of crackers, and life's as good as it gets (you can also take along your own bottle and some real glasses...).
At the height of summer, the sun sets at about 20h30, but you really want to get in that queue as early as possible (and the last cable car goes down at 22h00). The good news is that the Table Mountain Café is remarkably well stocked with drinkable local wines and bubbly, with self-service snacks galore.
Take advantage of the Cableway's Sunset Special (from 18h00, Nov to Feb, half-price return tickets, R80) and marvel as the city turns into a twinkly toy town.
CAFÉ CAPRICE 37 Victoria Road, Camps Bay,
Cape Town,
Tel 021 438 8315
Complain all you like about the superficiality, expensive drinks and bad food, but there's no denying that the palm-fringed Camps Bay beachfront strip is sundowner central.
In the heady '90s, the only place to be seen was at nearby Blues (Tel 021 438 2040) with its signature turquoise-hued cocktail and beautiful people, but then came a host of others to accommodate the tanned and buff throngs, including Baraza (Tel 021 438 1758) and Caprice.
Pretty young things in skimpy little nothings spill out onto pavement tables and the cocktails flow to a never-ceasing Cafe del Mar-type soundtrack. Don't even think of ordering wine unless you're content with the lowest-common-denominator stuff guaranteed to leave you with heartburn.
But, then, you'll stop caring about such trifl es as shoddy winelists as you sip your rum-based Tropical Breeze while the sun's last rays shimmer on the white sand just metres away...
LA PERLA
Beach Road, Sea Point, Cape Town,
Tel 021 434 2471
In its heyday in the '70s and '80s, La Perla was the haunt of celebrity playboys and beauty queens, and it still oozes nostalgic French Riviera-esque cool. The same oldschool waiters in white jackets have served seafood and Italian fare for decades, with diners fighting for tables at the windows or on the now-expanded terrace overlooking the Sea Point promenade and ocean beyond.
It remains one of the choicest spots on the Atlantic Seaboard to soak up the sunset, slouched on comfy couches under giant white umbrellas, with a bottle of good chilled white from an expansive list, including by the glass, at not-unreasonable mark-ups.
Oversized shades or Panama hat and plenty of attitude are de rigueur. And don't forget the oysters.
WAFU
Corner Beach & Surry Road, Mouille Point, Cape Town,
021 433 2377
Upstairs from sushi and seafood restaurant Wakame, Wafu with its sprawling deck overlooking the kelpy waters of Mouille Point, lazily plied by a battalion of white yachts, is heaven - if you can secure one of the shaded, softly cushioned ottomans and couches, that is. They're hot in demand, especially around sundowner time.
Get stuck into the exotic Asian-inspired cocktails or, better yet, peruse the well-considered winelist for something rare and expensive (there's more French bubbly than MCC available) in keeping with the luxurious feeling of it all. The dreamy views are well matched by tasty seafood tapas as the sun makes another dramatic exit.
LEOPARD ROOM BAR
Twelve Apostles Hotel, Victoria Road, Cape Town,
Tel 021 437 9000
Driving anywhere is not a favourite pastime of Mother City residents, so it's often out-of-towners who do some of the coolest stuff - like zipping along the gorgeous Bakoven stretch for drinks at this well-appointed establishment, perched like a white-iced wedding cake between fynboscovered mountain and an endless stretch of Mediterranean- blue sea and sky.
The five-star hotel's drinking hole is all luxurious camp, with its plush sofas and bar staff kitted out in leopard print waistcoats. A live band keeps the tempo upbeat, while one of their claims to fame is their offering of 72 different martinis.
If wine's more your thing, you won't be disappointed either - you can even nip down to the Vinoteque to pick something special in time for one of the best sunset displays you're likely to see.
CHAPMANS PEAK HOTEL
Chapmans Peak Drive, Hout Bay, Cape Town,
Tel 021 790 1036
This stalwart at the foot of Chappies remains a popular watering hole for good reason: the lovely old hotel with its popular deck gazes out across Hout Bay and the beach, with the sun sinking into the mountains and casting a rosy glow over the sky.
People flock here for the grilled calamari while basking in the beachy ambience, but stick around on the deck for sundowners before moving on to the bar (open from 16h00 until late every evening, and from 12h00 on weekends).
There's an excellent choice of local and imported beers, but even better is the selection of wines - the Nobrega family owners are wine aficionados of note.
POLANA
Polana, Kalk Bay harbour, Cape Town,
Tel 021 788 7162
Downstairs from seafood-eatery Harbour House is the shabby-chic Polana Restaurant, which serves up spicy colonial-style dishes with a Portuguese flavour. But hands-down the main attraction here is the cocktail lounge right on the rocks.
Windows open up completely with the waves crashing soulfully below, while wellworn leather couches invite long languishing sessions with multiple bottles of wine (there's a comprehensive list including by the glass) until late into the night.
Being on the False Bay side of Cape Town, you won't see the sun setting into the ocean, but you won't even notice - hey, was that a whale?
THE GRAND CAFÉ & ROOMS
27 Main Road, Plettenberg Bay,
Tel 044 533 3301
Do as Plett's forever-tanned and unruffled émigrés do come the long summer, and set up camp on the terrace of this wonderful boutique hotel in time for the nightly display of theatrics in the sky, almost a match for the plush, faded-decadence look of the decor.
The bar and café spill out into this candlelit alfresco space surrounded by lush gardens, with quite breathtaking views over the coastal town's legendary beaches, lagoon and mountains.
To the sounds of cool jazz, swig back Pinacocos and Daiquiris, while the winelist offers some pleasing labels, including local and French bubblies which would no doubt go down a treat at this most romantic of sundowner hotspots. You may even want to stay the night.
KZN OYSTER BOX HOTEL
2 Lighthouse Road, Umhlanga Rocks,
Durban, Tel 031 514 5000
She's considered the Grand Dame of the KwaZulu-Natal hotel scene and, after a two-year hiatus, she's back after receiving one serious makeover. The Oyster Box is about as wow as it gets in Durbs, boasting a prime position perched over the sea above Umhlanga's lighthouse.
The embodiment of old-world, colonial cool but with a new contemporary twist, there are three bars to choose from - all with great vistas over the Indian Ocean. And while you won't be watching the sun dipping into the sea anywhere along the east coast, who cares!
You're still in for a spectacularly pretty display as the light softens and the stars come out. We'd recommend the Lighthouse Bar for its elegant, sumptuous aesthetic and great choice of cocktails, while the ultra-chic, all-white Oyster Bar is the ideal stop for splurging on what else but oysters and bubbly.
BEAN BAG BOHEMIA
18 Windemere Road, Morningside,
Durban, Tel 031 309 6019
The vibe, the crowd, the cocktails... Bean Bag Bohemia is a Durban institution and still the ultimate chilled-out spot for sundowners, as any seasoned Durbanite will tell you.
Do as the city's arty and design crowd do and gather at this quirkily eclectic joint for mezze and a potent chocolate martini at the downstairs café section. But take caution: chances are that a dusky drink will turn into a night on the town.
GRANNY MOUSE COUNTRY
HOUSE & SPA
Granny Mouse Country House & Spa,
off the R103, Balgowan,Tel 033 234 4071
Whether you've been meandering around cheese farms or exerting yourself on a trout weir, there's no better way to end a day in the Midlands than sipping a glass of icy Sauvignon Blanc as you take in the spectacular rolling green hills of the area.
This wonderful country house is just the place to catch the sun go down, and you'll probably never want to leave after a few nights' stay.
Their underground cellar houses an extensive selection of wine and the view from the terrace over the river's edge is terrific.
GAUTENG
MOYO ZOO LAKE
Moyo Zoo Lake, Zoo Lake Park, 1 Prince
of Wales Drive, Parkview, Johannesburg,
Tel 011 646 0058
On weekends, Jo'burgers from all parts of the city descend on Zoo Lake to pass a relaxing day in the surrounding park or row dinky boats around its fountain. They clearly know a good thing when they see one, because this green spot in the heart of the CBD is easily one of the prettiest spots to set up camp as the fiery Highveld sun sets.
Book a table on the deck at Moyo Zoo Lake, order a cocktail or two, and you're set for a sublime bit of relaxed revelling, Jozi-style.
SKYE BAR
Holiday Inn Sandton, 123 Rivonia Road,
Sandton, Johannesburg,
Tel 011 282 0000
You'll be hard pressed to find a better view of the man-made forest that is Johannesburg than at the glam-deluxe Skye Bar. Situated on the ninth floor of the recently built Holiday Inn Sandton, this chandelier-adorned hotspot can only be described as very Jo'burg.
With its floor-to-ceiling windows, it's got a defi nitive birds-eye view of the busy city below and is a favourite hangout of business types and the city's cool crowd.
Nab a plush window couch, order a single malt, and blend in with the dealmakers who arrive after a busy day at the office to unwind as the sun goes down.
FORUM HOMINI
Roots Restaurant at Forum Homini
Boutique Hotel, Letamo Game Reserve,
Bartlett Road, Kromdraai,
Tel 011 668 7000
It might technically lie on the very outskirts of Johannesburg, but the drive out to Roots Restaurant at Forum Homini Boutique Hotel is well worth it - especially if you're in the mood for a magnificent view and an award-winning menu, paired with some seriously fine wines.
Spend a Saturday taking in nearby Cradle of Humankind hotspots Maropeng and Sterkfontein, and then meander along to Roots for a drink on the deck. The view over the surrounding dam and veld is a showstopper and the wine cellar nothing less than impressive.
When the last of the sunset's razzle-dazzle has disappeared, wander inside for dinner created by chefpatron Philippe Wagenfuhrer (booking is essential).
RECESSION-PROOF SUNDOWNERS
If you don't have the resources to join your pals someplace swanky, the best things in life are still free. Here are some of our favourite places to enjoy your sundowners gratis:
Beta Beach, Bakoven, Cape Town. When the southeaster is howling and all the other beaches look like deserts in the midst of a mighty sandstorm, you'll always find a sheltered spot between the rocks here.
Lions Head, Cape Town. The next best thing to going up Table Mountain, except a little more effort is required... Fill a backpack with beers and a good torch, and hike up Lions Head at full moon. (Sundowners atop Signal Hill is a somewhat gentler option, with the only necessary extra a blanket to sit on.)
The Park Bench, top of Kloof Road, Fresnaye, Cape Town. Take a bottle of bubbly, two flutes and a couple of cushions, and hope that another couple hasn't bagged this famous sunset viewing hotspot first! There's only one bench but, hey, you can still camp out on the grassy verge and take in the spectacular sunset display.
Franschhoek Pass, Franschhoek. Drive along this winding pass and pick a spot to gaze down at the spectacular sight of the Franschhoek Valley - just the place to test some of those wines you picked up on estate visits earlier in the day.
Northcliff Hill, Johannesburg. Pack a bag with a bottle or two and head for the top (right next to the water tower) to enjoy panoramic views of the city. On clear days you'll be able to see as far afield as Hartbeespoort Dam.
Try it some time! "