Simonsig - top MCC producer 2009
Golden Delicious
A pioneer in Méthode Cap Classique, Simonsig still leads the pack when it comes to locally produced bubbly. This year its Kaapse Vonkel claims first - and second - position in the Amorim Cork Cap Classique Challenge. Jeanri-Tine van Zyl reports.
Johan Malan, cellarmaster at Simonsig, greets with a firm handshake and a steady gaze that suggests he is a man unfazed by interviews, speeches, praise or criticism. He has been in the industry for long enough, and has a familial dynasty that precedes his rule.He knows when to be perturbed. Malan has been here before, after all, back in 2002 when his Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 1999 won the inaugural Cap Classique Challenge. And try as I may to mask the true reason for my visit, he knows he has done it again - this time with a younger vintage, the Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2005. What he doesn't know is that Simonsig dominates the podium this year with the Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2005 magnum awarded a second place.
A somewhat uncanny repeat feat considering that the Kaapse Vonkel Brut 1998 was judged third overall at the 2002 Challenge.
Quite the record, although you get the idea that Malan does not get overly elated about results - or perhaps he is simply too modest to show it. "It is a bit like playing the Lotto," he nonchalantly notes. "Sometimes you get lucky - it is like that with most panel tastings." In this particular one, both wines claimed their place by means of unanimous acclaim from panel members - and looking at the tasting notes, it is clear that luck had nothing to do with it. Instead, it appears to have much more to do with a Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) recipe, or method, that has seen the wine grow from its pioneering crib into a Cape Classic, showing intense grace and poise in a category of wines that "require the most technical skill and dedication of all".
A Leader Since 1971
And how apt that South Africa's first MCC (bottle-fermented sparkling wine made in the Champagne style) should still be the exemplary leader it was when it first came under cork in 1971 - then still a project headed by Malan's father, Frans. As with all pioneering efforts, it was one that underwent intense tweaking in its early stages before settling into an equilibrium where vini- and viticultural practices have been perfected and remain nearly unchanged.
Establishing itself neatly as a brand that Malan summarises as being "trustworthy both in terms of price and quality".
Initially, base wine included juice from the farm's other famed variety, Chenin Blanc, which was a local take on the Blanc de Blancs method. But, remodelled according to a more traditional recipe, base wine was then formulated to include Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the smallest percentage of Pinot Meunier (Pinotage was originally included as a substitute for the latter, but SA's local variety didn't prove "as successful").
Introduced to the base wine in 1987, the Pinot Meunier contributes upfront, fragrant flavours to youthful wines, backed by the usually dominant component, Pinot Noir, which has typical red berry nuances and aids maturation. In terms of the standard recipe, the Kaapse Vonkel 2005 sees a slight deviation from the Pinot-driven formula, and instead sees Chardonnay (55%) to the fore resulting in freshly baked bread aromas and what Malan describes as "apples ... not pink ladies, but golden delicious".
The Winning Recipe
The blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier is not an incidental combination. As the making of Cap Classique requires meticulous technical skill, every component plays a particular role in the ageing cycle. Referring to the "developing curve" of the wine, Malan references the role of the individual varieties - the acidity, mainly from the Chardonnay, being the "spine that runs through the wine" with Malan adding that optimal use of natural acidity is key. Viticultural practices were also reconsidered following a visit to Champagne in 1990.
At the world's largest Champagne House, Moët & Chandon, Malan tasted base wines that challenged preconceived notions that these should express a green (as opposed to a more fruity) character. This was his "turning point": forthwith grapes would be harvested riper, allowing for true fruit expression, more truthfully reflecting climatic conditions in SA, and giving a distinct difference to MCC and Champagne. "We live in a sunny country, where each year is a good year, which is why we can put a vintage to our Brut."
To add dimension and complexity to the Kaapse Vonkel, grapes are harvested at different ripeness levels, in true Méthode Champenoise style. "In Champagne, grapes are sourced from various little towns resulting in various ripeness levels." The base wines also differ in character, adding to the complexity of the final product.
At Simonsig one of the most important considerations is that grapes (with portions sourced from Bottelary, Elgin, Darling, Firgrove and Simondium) must arrive in mint condition at the cellar, in whole bunches. "Whole bunch pressing is core to producing Cap Classique," explains Malan, and like a conductor he lifts his pinkies and adds: "You have to treat the grapes as gently as possible..."
After pressing, about 17% of the Chardonnay is fermented in old oak barrels to add even more variation before going into bottle for second fermentation.
So When Can I Get it?
The 2005 harvest report notes of growth in the demand for Kaapse Vonkel Brut, and production has increased accordingly. Malan can't help chuckling when quoting numbers: "It is about 240 000 bottles per vintage, which are fed to the market over a number of years, the first from 2005 having been released mid-2006."
The winning 2005 vintage was allowed longer lees contact - primary fermentation in tank for 12 months, followed by 16 months of lees contact before disgorgement in July 2007. The magnum bottle of the same vintage, on the other hand, was allowed 40 months on the lees, with disgorgement taking place in April this year.
It is an intensive process, and every tweak is carefully considered, the slightest alteration in the amount of dosage, for example, only happening after hours of debate in an effort to find what Malan refers to as the wine's "sweet spot ... [where the wine has] perfect harmony and balance".
To appreciate this balance fully, he recommends giving the wine some more time in the bottle. "In competitions our Cap Classiques have shown that they fare better if given extra time and patience... You can cellar the 2007 Brut and it will develop as beautifully as the 2005."
During lunch at on-premises restaurant Cuvée, he opens a bottle of the inaugural competition winner, the Kaapse Vonkel Brut 1999. Disgorged that morning, the wine shows remarkable liveliness, freshness, and immaculate class. "Nutty flavours," nods Malan, and I detect some lemon creams too.
As co-founder of the Cap Classique association in 1991, Malan is still intensely involved in the promotion of the style, and expresses an almost father-like concern for those with an unmindful approach in the production of MCC. "It requires investment, equipment and knowledge - you can't take shortcuts, and those who do will pay when it comes to quality. In South Africa, the standard of Cap Classique is high precisely because winemakers don't do it as a sideline..."
And yet, even though it is such a meticulously demanding product to make, requiring dedication, gentle handling and skilful approach, it is the only wine that can be enjoyed at every occasion and, if none presents itself, becomes an occasion in itself upon opening. "A wine on its own," says Malan, with just the slightest suggestion of a bow.
