September 2002 Buying Guide: Viognier, Semillon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec

French alternatives

The wines made from these grapes offer different or unusual alternatives to those from 'mainstream' varietals. Tasting panel chairman and Cape Wine Master Tony Mossop reports on a tasting of Viognier, Sémillon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec.

Four niche grape varieties: two whites, two reds. All French in origin and all grown in other winemaking regions of the world. And all regarded in South Africa as 'mini' categories: not quite enough examples to fill a major category tasting.

That in itself does not tell the full story. The fact that more than half of the 49 wines on the table were Sémillons gives some indication of the relative importance of this variety in our vineyards - about 150 years ago it accounted for over 90% of the national crop. Today this has declined to just one percent. The other three, Viognier and the two 'Bordeaux' grapes, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, are comparative newcomers, with some tiny pockets of excellence fast emerging.

Of the four wines achieving 4 Star ratings, two were Sémillons and two Cabernet Franc - both promising and distinctive contributors to our palette of wine grapes. The Avontuur and Neethlingshof wines showed typical spice and new thatch aromas, with attractive, soft and savoury chocolaty flavours. 'Franc' implies scent or perfumed nuances, which this variety offers in abundance when showing its best side. In fact, a more rewarding stand-alone variety than Merlot, so informed opinion goes these days. And great in a red blend too.

The Nitida and Fairview Oom Pagel Sémillons are fast developing track records: the latter's previous vintage, the 2000, walked off with a trophy from the recent Fairbairn Capital SA Trophy Wine Show, while the Platter wine guide refers to the 'distinctive and emphatic debut' of the former. But the wines show very different styles: the first is all lemongrass, green pea and capsicum flavours, while the Fairview is a beautifully wooded toast-and-marmalade number, offering all sorts of intriguing nuances.

Significantly, all the 31/2 Star spots were filled by Sémillons, from areas as geographically separate as Cape Point and Durbanville. The exotic and scarce Viognier had to wait for the 3 Star awards before featuring - and this appearance was put in by only one of the slim line-up from four producers. There is no doubt that the Rhône variety is attracting a lot of interest, particularly in California, where it has been established for a while, and of course Australia, where it is regarded by some as the second coming of Chardonnay - with a long way to go!

The Rhône rangers at Fairview scored again, with the best Malbec on show, a 3 Star baby from 2001: a dense, ripe fleshy wine, still quite simple but winking promise for the future.

Malbec is not a Rhône original, of course, being a Bordeaux staple until it was decimated by phylloxera in the 19th century. Since then it has confined itself to the French southwest, underpinning the dense wines of Cahors. Like Viognier, it still has to find its true champions to bring out its full potential in the Cape. In the meantime, the Argentinians continue to seduce British supermarkets with their version of the grape, with revivals of pre-phylloxera plantings now being revved up to Pinotage status as that country's unique offering to the world of wine.

Here's what the panel had to say:

VIOGNIER

Graham Beck's winemaker Charles Hopkins enlightened us about the idiosyncrasies of Viognier: "It's got a tremendously tough, thick skin, so you can't give it the sort of skin contact you'd manage with a Sauvignon Blanc, for example. You just get too much phenolic, bitter flavour coming through. It ripens early, and the thick skin wrinkles easily, so winemakers tend to panic and pick it too soon, as they think the grapes are 'raisining'. It's like a red grape. Seems to me the best wines will be made by letting the fruit hang a bit longer."

All agreed that the variety is not yet out of nappies, with young vineyards and various experimental styles on offer, both wooded and unwooded.

Angela Lloyd commented: "It's all about texture and weight in the mouth. The best Viogniers have a certain mouthfeel, as well as some intriguing fruit characters. And I'd like to see some blended with something like Marsanne (another southern Rhône grape) for example." Verdict: Work in progress. . . watch this space.
SÉMILLON

Alias 'Groendruif' because of its brilliant green leafy cloak which causes vineyards to semaphore their presence for miles. Previously the main crop from Cape vineyards and, like Chenin, roped into service for both wine and brandy. Franschhoek hung its hat on the variety in the '80s. Until it became clear that this old clone just couldn't deliver anything other than bland, characterless wines, unless laced with a bit of oak.

It took the introduction of Australian clones more recently for the variety to begin strutting its stuff. Areas as far apart as Constantia and Durbanville now offer wines with character, not unlike a grassy New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This style can also be found in western Australia, where it differs sharply from the more aromatic version of the grape which has made the Hunter Valley so famous: low alcohol, bland-when-young wines which turn into peachy, nutty wonders of nature if left in the bottle for five to 10 years.

"An impressive number of samples," noted Dave Hughes. "Lots of bland stuff between the good, though. Over-cropping's still a problem, it seems."

Hopkins again: "The grape has huge berries, so it's easy to let it run riot. But it matures in the bottle much better than Sauvignon, for example, so it's a good blending partner with Sauvignon - like they do in Bordeaux."

Lloyd was critical of examples which she perceived to be over-wooded. "The variety has wonderful lemon grass and honey characters - wood can ruin these. Oak should contribute, not side-track the wine into Chardonnay territory."

Verdict: Promising renaissance of an old Cape favourite and an opportunity to complement our other white wines on world wine lists.

CABERNET FRANC

Still only 500 hectares of this Bordeaux grape can be found in our vineyards but this amount has more than doubled in 10 years, as red winemakers discover its benefits as a condiment in the traditional Médoc- and St Emilion-style blends. With its spicy, sweet perfume and juicy texture, fine Franc contributes at least as much to a blend as Merlot - some feel even more.

And it seems to be able to offer more as a solo act than this variety. Thriving on tough, sparse, gravelly soils, particularly around Stellenbosch and the False Bay coast, where you'll find nearly half the plantings, the variety is another prone to over-exuberance.

Said berry-watcher Hopkins: "Very fond of uneven ripening: you get green and black grapes in the same bunch. You need to be very strict in the vineyard after veraison (change of colour), and cut off all the uneven bunches - up to a third, sometimes. And don't macerate too long on the skins - you'll make a stalky, tannic wine."

Allan Mullins felt we are further down the road of evolution towards quality Cab Francs than with Merlot in this country. "Sells well in small quantities at retail - people look for the distinctiveness of the grape versus Cabernet Sauvignon."

The future: Great niche red when made well. Rewarding stand-alone variety, as well as blender.

MALBEC

Backsberg were the first to pioneer this grape as a single bottling. The 2002 Platter wine guide lists just four producers, awarding none more than 3 Stars. The Fairview was our pick of the crop but even this wine is fairly simple and four-square, though offering more ripeness and flesh than the other three, which all showed elements of greenness and minerality. The Bellevue evinced a typical bluegum character: the grape has a particular propensity to absorb this aroma from nearby trees (of which there are plenty on Bellevue), felt Hopkins.

"I prefer Petit Verdot, as the other Bordeaux option, over Malbec," he noted.

Yet there is great interest abroad in good Malbec, as northern buyers find some disappointments in Argentina. Verdict: An economic option, both in blends and on its own - but the quality level needs to rack up a notch.
4 Star

NITIDA SÉMILLON 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R36.00
Clear green/yellow. Intense dried grass/nettle pungency immediately apparent on the nose. Asparagus and peas, too, which carry through to the palate. Juicy grapefruit, gooseberry and fig. Good, crisp acid. Supple but well structured. Drink now or within 2 years.

FAIRVIEW OOM PAGEL SÉMILLON 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R65.00
Brilliant green-gold. Slightly smoky aromas with lanolin and hints of marmalade and toast. Complex, well-wooded wine. Flavours include lemon, beeswax and honey on a creamy, weighty palate. Well-defined varietal character with polished finish. Drink in 2 to 3 years.

3½ Stars

BLOEMENDAL SÉMILLON 2002
CELLAR PRICE: R30.00
Clear straw. Prominent grassy/green pepper notes on the nose. Sweet entry onto lovely fruit - crisp peaches, pear drops and some lemonade. Hint of capsicum. Drink now or within a year.

STEENBERG SÉMILLON 2002
CELLAR PRICE: R42.00
Clear pale gold. Aromas of toast and butterscotch lead on to a creamy palate of lemon and honeyed richness. Oak is well integrated with peachy/vanilla flavours and some dried fruit. Firm and full with lively, zesty finish. Keep for 1 to 3 years.

CAPE POINT SÉMILLON 2001
APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R60.00
Clear, green straw. Loads of grassy nettles and dried pears on the nose. Clean, dry entry onto elegant palate with some sweet fruit - green fig and capsicum. Good, bright acid lends a crisp, zingy character. Well structured with a good finish. Keep for 18 months to 2 years.

STELLENZICHT SÉMILLON 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R61.00
Green/yellow gold. Whiffs of vanilla, honey, beeswax and lanolin - same on palate along with grassy, caramel flavours. Hint of sweetness. Concentrated viscous palate. Well- balanced. Good 1 to 3 years in bottle.

AVONTUUR CABERNET FRANC 2000
CELLAR PRICE: R40.00
Deep ruby, pale garnet rim. Smoky, spicy dark fruits - damson and plum. Sweet-fruited mouth gives good balance Tannins firm but ripe. Fennel chocolate finish. Keep between 1 and 4 years.

NEETHLINGSHOF LORD NEETHLING CABERNET FRANC 1999
CELLAR PRICE: R80.00
Plum, red brick rim. Charry tar nose. Some oak spice, chocolate and cassis too. Soft, sweet entry onto savoury mouthful. Licorice and dark fruit. Firm but ripe tannins. Hold for 3 to 5 years.

3 Stars

UITERWYK CABERNET FRANC 2000
CELLAR PRICE: R49.00
Blackish plum, garnet rim. Spicy meaty fragrances. Some lead pencil. Palate is dense with ripe plums, chocolate, fennel and peppery notes. Lovely tannins - delicate and well handled. Pull the cork in 2 to 5 years.

GRAHAM BECK CWG COFFEE STONE CABERNET FRANC (1,5l MAGNUM)
AVERAGE AUCTION PRICE: R300.00
Dark ruby, garnet edge. Shy plum nose, whiffs of black berries, chocolate and spice. Wood strong on palate but plump ripe fruit backs it up. Mulberry, vanilla and some pepper. Dry, ripe tannins. Good length. 1 to 4 years.

FAIRVIEW VIOGNIER 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R60.00
Clear pale burnished gold. Bright floral/fruit aromas. Powerful palate - peach and spice. Crisp and lively - some oak. Good weight and texture. Chalky, firm finish. Drink now or in 3 years.

FAIRVIEW MALBEC 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R40.00
Plum, purple edge. Whiffs of red fruit and herbs - some tomato. Sweetish ripe fruit in mouth - a big juicy mouthful of plums and berries. Not overly complex and dense. Adequate structure. Keep for 1 to 2 years.
3 Stars

Hildenbrand Sémillon 2001 R38.00
Rickety Bridge Sémillon 1999 R39.00
Fleur du Cap Unfiltered Sémillon 2001 ARP R44.00
Klein Constantia Sémillon 1997 R50.00
Rijk's Sémillon 2001 R54.00
Constantia Uitsig Reserve Sémillon 2000 R58.00
Boekenhoutskloof Sémillon 2000 ARP R70.00

2½ Stars

Uiterwyk Viognier 2001 R44.00
Lievland Cabernet Franc 2000 R70.00
Warwick Cabernet Franc 1999 R75.00
Bellevue Malbec 2000 R32.00
Buitenverwachting Malbec 1999 SO R60.00
Eikehof Sémillon 2001 R20.00
Eikehof Bush Vine Sémillon 2001 R30.00
Wildekrans Sémillon 2002 R34.95
Nitida Sémillon 2002 R36.00
Green on Green Sémillon 2001 R55.86
Cape Point Sémillon 2001 R60.00
Boekenhoutskloof Sémillon 2000 R70.00

2 Stars

Backsberg Viognier 2001 R40.00
Landskroon Cabernet Franc 2000 SO R25.00
Bellingham Spitz Cab Franc '98 ARP R48.94
Lutzville Sémillon 2002 R11.20
Stony Brook Sémillon 2000 R27.50
Savanha Sémillon 2001 ARP R34.00
Landau du Val Sémillon 2000 R36.00
Glenwood Sémillon 2001 (Barrel Fermented) R38.00
Fairview Barrel Fermented Sémillon 2000 R40.00
La Bri Limited Release Sémillon 2001 R46.00
Constantia Uitsig Reserve Sémillon 2000 R58.00

1 Star

Backsberg Malbec 1998 R30.00
Viljoensdrift Sémillon 2001 R17.00
Van Loveren Sémillon 2002 R18.00
Backsberg Sémillon 2000 R25.00
Wildekrans Reserve Sémillon 2001 R34.95
Deetlefs Sémillon 2000 R35.00

Also tasted:
Five Heirs Christina Cabernet Franc 2000 R50.00

PRICES: All ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
SO: Sold out ex-cellar
ARP: Approximate retail price

WINE TASTERS: Panel Chairman and Cape Wine Master Tony Mossop; Cape Wine Master Allan Mullins; honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Dave Hughes; associate editor of Grape Angela Lloyd; and Charles Hopkins, cellarmaster at Graham Beck Coastal.

PROCEDURES: Tasting done 'blind'. Wines poured at 18°C (reds), 14°C (whites). The 20-point scoring system was used: 5 Star = 18 or more out of 20; 4 Star = 16 or 17; 3 Star = 15; 2 Star = 14; 1 Star = 13; No Star = less than 13. Star ratings awarded on the basis of discussion and consensus.

RATINGS:

Superlative wine, a masterpiece. World-class.
Excellent, wine of distinction. Recommended for special occasions
and cellaring.
Good to very good. Fine character and style. Suitable for cellaring.
Above average. Appealing.
Average. Acceptable.

Ratings determined after deliberation by the panel, rather than simply calculating the average scores. Chartered AccountantsDeloitte & Touche audited the procedures to ensure fairness and accuracy.