Savoy Cabbage
Published: 01 Nov 07
Category:
All that changed with the arrival of Savoy Cabbage on the scene. The lair of renowned foodie Janet Telian it soon became the dining destination du jour and many a gourmand still gets misty eyed over the wonders of her Maldon flecked tomato tart, with its rustic flaky pastry edges and scarlet sun blushed tomatoes that instantly transported you to warm Mediterranean climes.
Since Telian left seven years ago, her then sous, now executive chef Peter Pankhurst has been at the helm, continuing the tradition of rustic nuanced cuisine with an undeniably stylish edge. Having not visited this eatery in the heart of the city for at least two seasons, and having read about their very favourable review in the New York Times last year it really was time and since I had heard that Pankhurst had recently returned from a five-week working tour of US kitchens, working with some of the best chefs in Washington DC, I was intrigued.
The venue is as it has always been, very beautiful. Set in a space that's attached to Heritage Square, a sense of history pervades, thanks to the exposed centuries old walls (and if they're not, they certainly look the part). At the same time, there is an undeniable sense of contemporary inner city chic. A glass encased stairwell leads diners to an upstairs bar and dining area while guests seated in the main restaurant area are led past an open kitchen with its soundtrack of sizzling and a chorus of 'yes chefs' as dishes are prepared for those already seated. Double volume heights, large cabbage shaped glass lights and spare yet elegant tableware certainly made me thankful for having dressed up a little and put on a pair of heels.
I went for dinner with friends who'd secured a baby sitter for the night and were understandably thrilled to have left a world of fish fingers and mash behind, albeit for a few hours. There couldn't be a better escape from the realities of daily life. As we ate on a winter's night, it's fitting that the evening's menu (Pankhurst does honestly change his every day unlike many others who like to say they do) was peppered with hearty dishes galore. But let's stick to the starters first.
My starter of Red Roman, coconut, pineapple and chilli was lipsmackingly good - curiously I couldn't find the chilli, but coriander I did - and teamed with the pineapple, it was a very tasty marriage. Its presentation in a martini glass however seemed unnecessary and not in keeping with the elegant understatement of the restaurant - but I'm nitpicking. The twice-baked soufflé was silky sensation and presented without pomp and on a terracotta plate.
For main course, the choices of offal were deliciously difficult. It is such a pleasure to see more restaurants celebrating all of the animal (Pankhurst's view is that if an animal gives its life for us, all should be made use of) and there are some gorgeous offerings in his repertoire. Tripe with chorizo, veal liver with pearl onions and bacon were certainly tempting options but my choice of veal sweetbreads served on a slick of lemon and parsley nage with plump mushrooms did not disappoint but I really could have done with more sauce - if one doesn't eat sweetbread every day, mouthful after mouthful can be overwhelming and more of the sauce would have been
a welcome foil.
One of the orders at the table was Chalmer rib-eye steak served on a potato rosti with boozy onions and a Guinness sauce. Pankhurst's play on a pub grub partnership of steak and beer is truly outstanding - a taste of steak that good I have most certainly not had in a very long time. Other choices at the table included the lamb three ways (rack, shoulder and rump) with a chunky vegetable chutney and the distinctive flavours of each are testament to the skills of this kitchen.
Fish features strongly on the menu and the grilled kingklip on celeriac purée was superb - succulent, subtle and understandably, all devoured. On that note, both Red Roman and kingklip which admittedly we wholeheartedly ate (and Swordfish which also appears on the menu) are 'orange fish' on the SASSI (Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative) guide which means they are 'maybe' choices. Had I had my pocket guide with me (downloadable off www.wwf.org.za/sassi), I would have thought twice, but I really feel that it's also up to the chefs to help support the protection of our threatened species.
For pudding we shared a superb soft-centred chocolate pudding, which teamed with a glass of Lourensford Semillon Noble Late Harvest was magic. On the wine front, there are plenty of complex and varied offerings to match the smorgasbord of a menu but with prices for mains starting at the R95 mark and leading up to R145, more informed wine service would not have been amiss at making this already splendid experience, simply sublime.
Average price for a three-course meal: R170
Address: Savoy Cabbage, 101 Hout Street, Cape Town. Open for lunch and dinner Mon - Fri, dinner Sat. BYO R20. Tel: 021 424 2626.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
All that changed with the arrival of Savoy Cabbage on the scene. The lair of renowned foodie Janet Telian it soon became the dining destination du jour and many a gourmand still gets misty eyed over the wonders of her Maldon flecked tomato tart, with its rustic flaky pastry edges and scarlet sun blushed tomatoes that instantly transported you to warm Mediterranean climes.
Since Telian left seven years ago, her then sous, now executive chef Peter Pankhurst has been at the helm, continuing the tradition of rustic nuanced cuisine with an undeniably stylish edge. Having not visited this eatery in the heart of the city for at least two seasons, and having read about their very favourable review in the New York Times last year it really was time and since I had heard that Pankhurst had recently returned from a five-week working tour of US kitchens, working with some of the best chefs in Washington DC, I was intrigued.
The venue is as it has always been, very beautiful. Set in a space that's attached to Heritage Square, a sense of history pervades, thanks to the exposed centuries old walls (and if they're not, they certainly look the part). At the same time, there is an undeniable sense of contemporary inner city chic. A glass encased stairwell leads diners to an upstairs bar and dining area while guests seated in the main restaurant area are led past an open kitchen with its soundtrack of sizzling and a chorus of 'yes chefs' as dishes are prepared for those already seated. Double volume heights, large cabbage shaped glass lights and spare yet elegant tableware certainly made me thankful for having dressed up a little and put on a pair of heels.
I went for dinner with friends who'd secured a baby sitter for the night and were understandably thrilled to have left a world of fish fingers and mash behind, albeit for a few hours. There couldn't be a better escape from the realities of daily life. As we ate on a winter's night, it's fitting that the evening's menu (Pankhurst does honestly change his every day unlike many others who like to say they do) was peppered with hearty dishes galore. But let's stick to the starters first.
My starter of Red Roman, coconut, pineapple and chilli was lipsmackingly good - curiously I couldn't find the chilli, but coriander I did - and teamed with the pineapple, it was a very tasty marriage. Its presentation in a martini glass however seemed unnecessary and not in keeping with the elegant understatement of the restaurant - but I'm nitpicking. The twice-baked soufflé was silky sensation and presented without pomp and on a terracotta plate.
For main course, the choices of offal were deliciously difficult. It is such a pleasure to see more restaurants celebrating all of the animal (Pankhurst's view is that if an animal gives its life for us, all should be made use of) and there are some gorgeous offerings in his repertoire. Tripe with chorizo, veal liver with pearl onions and bacon were certainly tempting options but my choice of veal sweetbreads served on a slick of lemon and parsley nage with plump mushrooms did not disappoint but I really could have done with more sauce - if one doesn't eat sweetbread every day, mouthful after mouthful can be overwhelming and more of the sauce would have been
a welcome foil.
One of the orders at the table was Chalmer rib-eye steak served on a potato rosti with boozy onions and a Guinness sauce. Pankhurst's play on a pub grub partnership of steak and beer is truly outstanding - a taste of steak that good I have most certainly not had in a very long time. Other choices at the table included the lamb three ways (rack, shoulder and rump) with a chunky vegetable chutney and the distinctive flavours of each are testament to the skills of this kitchen.
Fish features strongly on the menu and the grilled kingklip on celeriac purée was superb - succulent, subtle and understandably, all devoured. On that note, both Red Roman and kingklip which admittedly we wholeheartedly ate (and Swordfish which also appears on the menu) are 'orange fish' on the SASSI (Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative) guide which means they are 'maybe' choices. Had I had my pocket guide with me (downloadable off www.wwf.org.za/sassi), I would have thought twice, but I really feel that it's also up to the chefs to help support the protection of our threatened species.
For pudding we shared a superb soft-centred chocolate pudding, which teamed with a glass of Lourensford Semillon Noble Late Harvest was magic. On the wine front, there are plenty of complex and varied offerings to match the smorgasbord of a menu but with prices for mains starting at the R95 mark and leading up to R145, more informed wine service would not have been amiss at making this already splendid experience, simply sublime.
Average price for a three-course meal: R170
By Vicki Sleet
Address: Savoy Cabbage, 101 Hout Street, Cape Town. Open for lunch and dinner Mon - Fri, dinner Sat. BYO R20. Tel: 021 424 2626.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
