SA's tapas bars

“You’ll rarely see a drunk Spaniard, even though they drink virtually around the clock,” claims British author and resident of Spain Lawrence Bohme. What’s the secret? According to Bohme, the trick to the Spaniards’ resilience is the tapa, a cornerstone of Spanish culture, although its exact origin is somewhat a mystery.

 

There are various versions of the history of tapas. Some suggest that it came into being when Spanish King Alfonso the 10th (known as The Wise) became ill and had to take small bites of food with some wine between meals. Once he had regained his health, he sensibly ordered that taverns serve a small snack with each drink.

Others believe that 16th-century tavern owners from Castilla-La Mancha discovered the strong taste and smell of mature cheese could help disguise that of bad wine. So they started offering free cheese when serving cheap wine. But the most widely accepted theory is that the tapa (which means ‘lid’ in Spanish) was born from the tradition of placing a slice of bread on top of a glass of wine or sherry to protect it from dust and flies. This lid evolved from bread to slices of meat and small plates of olives or almonds that covered one’s glass in-between sips. And, as barmen became increasingly creative in inventing tapas, the lids soon became as important as the drinks themselves.

Today, tapas are still widely served as hors d’oeuvres, although no longer free of charge, and traditionally accompany Sherry, Malaga or Manzanilla. Over time, varying interpretations of the traditional tapa have developed, diverging from its Spanish culinary tradition, although the basic philosophy has remained the same, with ‘tapas’ still referring to bite-sized snacks that are served with wine and, importantly, do not interrupt social conversation. Larger, sharing portions called raciones are increasingly popular, while stuffed olives, albóndigas (meatballs), sardines, gambas (prawns cooked in garlic), cheeses and cured meats remain favourites.

In SA, just a handful of tapas bars are true to their Spanish origin. Many have allowed local in uflences to permeate the cuisine in the form of springbok carpaccio and West Coast oysters, with some going so far as tapas-style curries! Here are a few to tickle your fancy.

Cape Town

FRENCH TOAST WINE AND TAPAS BAR
199 Bree Street, Cape Town
Tel 021 422 4084

This trendy city bowl tapas bar opened its doors towards the end of 2010 and offers a host of Mediterranean-style tapas as well as over 100 wines by the glass.

Situated in an old city warehouse, exposed brick walls and steel beams contrast against plush couches. Long bar counters allow for casual, quick dining over grilled paprika prawns, beef pinchos with apricot and red onion and venison carpaccio – ranging between R35 and R48 per nibble. Although the dessert menu is limited to three equally heavenly options, the French toast stuffed with cashews and banana should not be missed.

Food and wine pairing flights are occasionally on offer, with three glasses of a particular variety paired with three different tapas prepared by chef Jannie Melis. The extensive wine list includes a number of international offerings, from German Riesling and Billecart-Salmon Rosé to Daniel Dampt Chablis. Local options are equally enticing and prices range from R23 to R185 per 150ml glass, meaning there’s something to suit everyone. - Emma Odendaal

BISTRO SIXTEEN82
Steenberg Vineyards, Steenberg Road, Constantia
Tel 021 713 2211

Situated adjacent to the beautiful Steenberg wine tasting room, at Bistro Sixteen82, views spill out over rim-flow pools onto the vineyards and mountains as the jet-set nibble on the likes of peppered calamari served with harissa aioli (R40), grilled sardines (R46) and beef tataki (R49). The wine list comprises predominantly Steenberg estate offerings, most of which are available by the glass, as well as a few other wellchosen wines from the Constantia valley and French bubbles. It’s an ultra-chic location, with service to match. - Emma Odendaal

CAVEAU AT THE MILL
13 Boundary Road, Newlands
Tel 021 685 5140

Under leafy trees, nestled on the edge of the Liesbeek River, Caveau at the Mill is a casual, but dependable Southern Suburbs bar-cum-eatery. Situated in the old Josephine’s Mill dating back to 1840, upstairs the bar area caters for pre-sports events drinks (it’s within spitting distance of Newlands Stadium) and downstairs patrons can choose from a host of cheeses and charcuterie to pair with a number of quality wines sourced from well-known South African wineries, as well as a few less-spotted gems. Aside from the platters, the well-priced Mediterranean-style tapas dishes on the ever-changing blackboard menu include pork-belly satays, lamb samoosas and crispy prawns (all usually between R32 and R48). The restaurant’s famous beef cubes with béarnaise sauce is a staple. Chocolate truffles, Turkish delights and grappa end off a sociable evening. - Emma Odendaal

Durban

CAFÉ 1999
Silvervause Centre, 117 Vause Road, Musgrave
Tel 031 202 3406

Café 1999 wholeheartedly embraces the ethos of tapas. Animated diners congregate over small portions of Mediterraneaninspired fare in the vibey restaurant that’s always awash with easy laughter and the clinking of wine glasses… with intermittent moments of circumspection as diners relish Marcelle Roberts’ contemporary creations. They claim “dynamite comes in small portions” and the easy-to-navigate menu is broken into sections including titbits (R12 to R52) and bitparts (R50 to R120). Perfect communal snacks include the addictive signature dish of calamata olives stuffed with ricotta, crumbed, deep-fried served with chilli-herb mayo or balsamic chicken livers with cashew nuts and ciabatta. Substantial salads – think grilled calamari served on couscous, avocado, roasted peppers and roasted red onions with a coriander and yoghurt dressing – and pastas come in two portion sizes to regulate elegant sufficiency, as do ‘main courses’ like the popular seared tuna sometimes served sliced over a rocket and watermelon salad with feta, cashew nuts and a honey dressing topped with avo salsa. The personalised, thoughtfully contemplated wine list shows a predilection for whites and owner Sean Roberts will happily suggest wines to match your choice of food. Café 1999 is also vegetarian friendly. - Tracy Gielink

ULUNDI ROOM
267 Anton Lembede (Smith) Street, Durban
Tel 031 333 6000

The Ulundi Room at the 150-year-old Royal Hotel has been highly regarded in discerning curry circles for decades. While the grand dame may have lost some of her glamour, the Ulundi continues to dish up enviable curries and, perhaps surprisingly, serving them tapas style (R22 to R35) is a revelation. The ambience is by no means intimate, but there’s a certain colonial appeal created by original gables, skylights and blackand- white checked floors. Eager-to-please staff will guide you through the intricacies of the various curries, but look out for the trademark chicken and prawns cooked in coconut cream with apricots or the gucchi badshahi, a wonderful vegetarian Kashmiri option of mushrooms and peas. Breyani and traditional curries also feature and the soji (a dessert of semolina cooked with cream and sugar and served with flaked almonds) will leave you defenceless. Sadly, the wine list is not specifically adapted to curries but is otherwise adequate for this lunchtime-only venue. - Tracy Gielink

Gauteng

FINO
Corner of 4th and 7th Avenue, Parktown North
Tel 011 447 4608

One of the few Spanish-style restaurants in Gauteng, Fino’s (meaning fine) tapas selection is for the moment without equal. Although this all-white señorita is looking a little tired, a fresh lick of paint is helping, with a return to a natural look and russet walls. A change of concept is also due – owner Christina Sato (also from Yamato fame) says the focus is no longer on Spanish tapas but rather on tapas and a jazz bar. Taking centre stage is a colossal mirror (great for people-watching), plus feminine touches like paintings of flamenco dancers. Recently it’s had some mixed reviews, although the food is dependable. Try quail eggs with sesame and smoked paprika salt, tortillas or the chorizo chips (prices ranging from R20 to R59) from the tapas menu. Diverging from tapas, paella for two or more is on offer as well as non-traditional dishes – think gnocchi, steak tartar and crostini. The wine list has a few Spanish names, but a better variety of locals, and there are plenty of cocktails to choose from. Disappointingly, few Spanish Sherries. The churros con chocolate (long Spanish doughnuts with a Belgian chocolate dipping sauce) is a deliciously sexy way to end the meal. - Georgina Crouth

BEIRUT
136 11th Avenue, Parkmore
Tel 011 884 1015

For gratifying mezze and arak, head for Beirut, an understated Lebanese restaurant in Parkmore. In typical Mediterranean fashion, tables spill out onto the pavement, and elderly men while away the hours reading foreign-language books over a drink. Inside, there’s a more formal dining area, with a fish tank, marble-topped tables, big-screen televisions, pictures of the motherland on the walls and tiled floors. Weekend nights include live entertainment in the form of belly-dancing and music, often turning into a party with support from the Lebanese community. The drink of choice is arak (an alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice), although there is wine from Lebanon (pricey and availability dependent) and SA (a passable selection) and numerous cocktails. Pace yourself if you want a main course because most succumb to the mezze. The menu ranges from Middle Eastern standards like hummus, schwarmas, pitas and baba ghanoush, as well as more challenging ones like the habra nayyi (raw lamb slivers with chopped fat) – prices from R35 to R95. The meal of the day and grills, especially chicken, are popular recommendations, as are the pastries. - Georgina Crouth

THE POLO BAR
The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff
Tel 011 481 6000

Perched on the slopes of a hill, The Westcliff offers a spectacular view of the Johannesburg Zoo and of Herbert Baker-designed randlord palaces, with the Sandton skyline in the distance. The hotel’s Polo Bar is the ideal spot for a sundowner, with a glass of something delicious in hand. Or settle at a table beside the infinity pool, with drinks and snacks from the fusion-inspired tapas menu. The ostrich spring rolls, prawn tempura and mushroom empanadas are, although not tapas in the strictest sense, popular items – but there are a few duds, like the Thai fishcakes (stodgy, dry salmon). Prices reflect the expensive surrounds with tapas priced up to R95. Winter is best spent with a Port or single-malt whisky on a couch near the fireplace inside the cosy bar. Cocktails are a speciality – think both the fashionable (cosmopolitan, mojitos) and classics like margaritas, whisky sours and mint juleps. To end, the chocolate cheesecake is heavenly. - Georgina Crouth

Tell us about your favourite tapas bar.