Santorini
The air, it continues, is redolent of tomatoes, herbs and spices. In Sandton's
Hyde Park expensive perfume is what fills the air...
The national zeitgeist of Greece - the white buildings juxtaposed so sharply
against that blue of the ocean - are unfortunately only a picture on the brochure.
I am, after all, sitting in a glitzy shopping centre with nary a view, unless
the hubbub of a shopping centre and the rattling of jewellery in this most money-saturated
acreage in the country is appropriate.
Hyde Park corner, like most other shopping centres, has suffered from virtually
perpetual dyspepsia, a result of over-indulgence in franchise-type eateries.
And frankly, sitting at Santorini is not like being in Greece. But to have created
this instantly popular restaurant with its modern edge - and at the same time,
warm and welcoming - must have taken inspired thinking.
One of the owners, Simeon Yiallouris, says, "Our thinking was white when
we conceptualized the décor. And a fresh, modern take on the classics."
It is indeed, with their contemporary take on the white-on-white - and of course
that blue - of the Greek islands, made magic. "When you're sitting here,
you're not in a shopping centre, you're somewhere else," says Yiallouris.
That's a bit of wishful thinking, but nevertheless, the look and feel, by clever
Manas Designs, is clean, modern and hip and, cleverly, still cozy.
Don't expect twists and towers in the menu; this is good Greek cuisine that
appropriately hints of the nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, anise spices of the deep
culinary history of the Greeks. It's what Yiallouris describes as "an authentic
eating experience with traditional Greek recipes". Recipes, he says, that
were sourced from their families.
I have visited there five times since it opened three months ago and have always
left feeling that I've had a good experience. It extends from the quality of
the meal to the ambience as well as the service.
Waiters are clearly trained not only to serve efficiently, but to be an extension
of the owners and management. It's about sales, but executed with such a warm,
charming and professional manner that it is endearing.
There are, apart from the fabulously popular weekend buffet brunches, two separate
menus, one for daytime (breakfast, lighter main dishes, "designer"
sandwiches and the like) and one for dinner.
Vegetarian food gets a full page. On offer are Kolokithakia (fried baby marrow
served with grated Gruyere) to Mavromatika (black-eye beans in vinaigrette dressing
with spring onions, dill and freshly ground pepper), Horta (endives serves with
olive oil and fresh lemon) and Gigantes (giant butter beans). All around R25
per portion.
There's a hot meze platter which they've become famous for. I'd say it's because
it's all truly fresh, and of the clever array that includes lamb and seafood,
and also chicken and beef, but, mainly because of the calamari, butter tender,
done with lots of fresh lemon. Fish meze and the usual array of Greek dips,
includes one of my favourites, Tyrokafteri (a blend of feta cheese, olive oil
and fresh chili).
Talking of fresh, I'm told that none of their seafood is frozen - all is flown
in from the coast.
There's also a meat meze. One of my personal favourites is tender lamb chops,
infused with rosemary and garlic and available as a starter portion, or as a
main. There's a selection of salads, although sadly no authentic Greek salad.
Deeper into the dinner menu the main courses offer traditional standards, 'catch
of the day', Moussaka and Pastichio.
The winelist, which received a Diners Club Wine List of the Year award, is catholic
and includes Graça as well as Hamilton Russell and Meerlust! I'm delighted
that there's an - albeit slow - move to not just offering 'wine by the glass',
but taking a step to what Capetonians have been used to for a long while: open
a bottle and sell to those who understand wine but want to enjoy only one glass.
Yiallouris says it was clear to them that Hyde Park needed a place that isn't
a quick-stop eatery that poses as a restaurant, but where you could actually
make a reservation and enjoy a relaxing meal. You can sing and dance all you
want, if the food ain't good - even within the confines of a shopping centre
- you're going to sink into the Aegean quicker than a non-paying guest...
The fact that the place is a well-oiled machine shouldn't deter one from visiting.
More power to them, I say. It's a machine that works without hiccups and delivers
what it promises.
Average price for a three-course meal: R150
By Gwynne Conlyn
<
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
