Riding the R44: Stellenbosch to Somerset
Riding the R44: Stellenbosch to Somerset
What to do and where to go if you have a day - or even just a few hours - in the winelands. By Fiona McDonald
The R44 between Stellenbosch and Somerset West is a dual lane highway that people whizz along every day, commuting between the two towns without a thought of the vinous treasures that lie alongside.
I’ve concentrated on those places directly off the R44 simply because there are too many other cellars and wineries a short meander off the tarmac to include here.
The first two wineries outside Stellenbosch are Blaauwklippen and Kleine Zalze, occupying opposite sides of the
road.
Blaauwklippen has just celebrated its 325th anniversary although its first wines were bottled in 1974. It’s part of the Arabella group and sister establishments include the GrandHotel alongside Cape Town’s International Convention Centre and the hotel and spa at Kleinmond that hosts the annual Nelson Mandela Invitational golf contest.
There’s a more relaxed pace of life at Blaauwklippen. Wine tastings are R35 (including a commemorative glass), although this is refunded if wine to the value of R200 a head is bought.
Blaauwklippen is well geared for visitors with ample parking (including a helipad should you wish to touch down in your Bell Jetranger…), heaps of shady trees and rolling lawns, lots of tables and benches for people to just chill out with bottles of wine. There’s a play area for kids and the Barouche restaurant is extremely popular. There’s also a carriage museum and this horsey heritage is reflected in the winery’s labels – Barouche, Landau and Cabriolet are all types of horse-drawn carriages…
On the other side of the R44 Kleine Zalze is the lynchpin of the entire De Zalze golf estate development. Johan Joubert is the winemaker responsible for a range of award-winning wines, notably Chenin Blanc and Shiraz. The Kleine Zalze team prides itself on the affordability of the wines. The bush vine Chenin Blanc sells from the cellar at R29 a bottle while the Cabernet Sauvignon is just R44!
Kleine Zalze is open seven days a week from 09h00 to 18h00 from Monday to Saturday and then from 11h00 to 18h00 on Sundays. Doing a tasting at one of the shady benches outside the tasting room means you drink in more than just wine – the views of the estate and the Helderberg are spectacular. Just a few steps away from the tasting venue (R15 per person for five wines) is the equally acclaimed Terroir restaurant.
A little further down the road is Audacia – beware the sharp turn that is required to enter and exit the property! The R44 is a busy road so exercise caution and patience when travelling this route.This tasting experience is unlike any other – you’ll feel as though you’re sitting in a lounge, visiting a friend. That’s because the tasting takes place around a coffee table while seated on comfortable couches and armchairs. Winemaker Elsa Carstens explains that Audacia aims to offer the personal touch. “We prefer small groups and do a maximum of eight to 10 people – because we like to keep it cosy and intimate.”
You’ll need at least 45 minutes to an hour to go through the range and the cost is R10, refundable on purchase of three bottles. None of the wines available for tasting are young – most are 2003 vintage – since Carstens is steadfast on giving the wine time in bottle before it shows its true colours. Reds are Audacia’s forte.
Don’t be surprised to see people thrashing the water in the dam in front of Eikendal to a froth. They’re wannabe trout fishermen learning the skill of casting the perfect fly. Eikendal is a perennially overlooked and underrated Helderberg cellar producing really good quality wine at reasonable prices. The Classique is the cellar’s first wine to breach the R100 mark, being offered for sale at R102 – and it’s still good value in my opinion!
It’s R15 per person for five wines – or R25 if you want a souvenir glass. Eikendal also offers a guided cellar tour but bookings are essential. Tasting room assistant Moira said red wines are definitely Eikendal’s drawcard with winemaker Henry Kotze showing good skill with Cabernet Franc and Merlot.Eikendal’s Swiss cheese fondues in winter are legendary and in summer Harald’s restaurant features lighter fare.
Across the road is Somerbosch wines, a family-owned operation which has been going strong for more than 50 years although the first wines were bottled as recently as 1995. Brothers Marius, Japie and Wrensch Roux work together on the Somerbosch as well as the Poker Hill ranges of entry-level wines.
It’s a great place to take kids with parents able to chill out at the bistro or taste wines (R10 a head, open seven days a week from 09h00 to 17h00) as the kids play on the lawns, in the sandpit or keep themselves busy picking strawberries nearby. Strawberries are available either freshly picked or bottled as homemade jam, depending on the season.
Try the Kylix estate blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot.
Heading towards Somerset West you’ll find Ken Forrester Wines at the Firgrove turnoff. The tasting room is at the end of an avenue of stately cypress trees. Not only is tasting free but it includes all the wines in the range – including the flagship FMC Chenin Blanc which sells for R230! Expect a warm welcome from the dogs too…
You can either taste inside at the counter or you could opt for the more leisurely option of sitting on the patio outside, next to the fountain. Also on offer is a platter of Dalewood cheeses but the hams hanging in the barrel cellar are off-limits… those are Ken Forrester’s pet project! Should you need something more substantial to eat, head for 96 Winery Road.
Back on the R44 the next stop is at Avontuur, a wine farm and horse stud. The tasting room is open for tasting from 09h00 to 17h00 from Monday to Friday while on weekends it’s open from 09h00 to 16h00. It’s R20 to sample five wines but the price includes the glass. Worth singling out for special attention are the Luna de Miel wood-fermented Chardonnay and Baccarat, a red blend of Cabernets Sauvignon, Franc and Merlot. Both very smart wines where the wood is well judged to balance the fruit.If you want to start early on a weekend, perhaps with a breakfast in the adjacent restaurant, book first as it’s very popular.
On the other side of the road, only about 500m from the Avontuur gate is Stonewall, where De Waal Koch farms and makes wine. Ronell Wiid consults during harvest time. It’s important that you call first to make an appointment because this is essentially a one-man operation. You’re assured personal attention though, and Koch will be able to tell you all about the farm, the vineyards and the trials and tribulations of wine farming. He’s just planted six hectares of Sauvignon Blanc that means he’ll bump his range up to four wines in total. At present there is only a Cabernet Sauvignon and the Rubér blend of Merlot and Cab on the red side and a Chardonnay which has been the only white wine to date.
Virtually just before you enter Somerset West you’ll find Yonder Hill. When I visited winemaker David Lockley was conscientiously greeting every member of a group with a kiss on the cheek… the fact that they were all women probably had something to do with it! It’s a small winery where Merlot has always been the focus – until Lockley snuck some Shiraz into the cellar and ended up making a medal-winning blend.
Yonder Hill has some delicious wines at prices that aren’t extreme – try the Inanda blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot.
Groups need to make an appointment but individuals are welcome to pop in between 09h00 and 16h00 from Monday to Friday.
"Must try" Wines
Audacia
They do a good Merlot but the Coeur de Rouge blend of Cabernet and Merlot is a pocket-pleasing winner.
Avontuur
Their MCC bubbly is utterly delicious but the Pinotage is full of lovely rich fruit too. Just released is the Sarabande reserve Sauvignon Blanc named for one of the Estate’s horses.
Blaauwklippen
If you like something different, try the ultra plummy and spicy Zinfandel.
Eikendal
The Classique blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc is smooth, rounded, delicious and reasonably priced.
Ken Forrester Wines
He’s a Chenin specialist so you have to try one – and they don’t come much better than the flagship FMC. For a sweet treat the T Noble LateHarvest is awesome.
Kleine Zalze
Another Chenin Blanc specialist but the Shiraz boasts ample spice and peppery fruit.
Somerbosch
Try the Kylix red blend of Cabernet, Shiraz and Merlot – lovely ripe, red and black fruit flavour.
Stonewall
Rubér red blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Yonder Hill
Merlot is a must because this cellar is more than adept at it, but also the Inanda blend of Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc with Merlot as well.
