Rias Baixas
It is here that the Rías Baixas wine region is found, around all the little rocky inlets along the Atlantic coast. This coastal location has a profound influence on the wines produced here - both because of climate and aspect, but also because of the local food. Shellfish and fish form a major part of the local diet, which is why this beautiful region, unlike the rest of Spain, produces aromatic, light, crisp, fresh white wines, mainly using the Albariño grape.
Some red grapes are planted - Mencia, Espadeiro, Caiño and Souson - but they have a hard time ripening in Galicia, whose weather is more like that of Brittany and the British Isles than the rest of Spain. It receives far more rain than other regions - around 1500mm annually, hence its description as the greenbelt of Spain.
With its thick skin, the Albariño grape is ideally suited to the damp conditions and there are three theories about its origins. The first is that French monks from Burgundy introduced it during the 12th and 13th century Crusades, along with Chardonnay, Mazuelo and Tempranillo. As mentioned in previous issues, these monks had a major role in influencing Spanish winemaking in other regions such as Rioja and Navarre.
The second - and more popular - theory is that Albariño is a grape that is indigenous to the region.
A third (and touch less credible) theory is that Albariño is genetically derived from Riesling. Top Spanish producer Miguel Torres is in this last camp, believing that Riesling was brought to Spain by medieval German monks who established monasteries on the Camino pilgrimage. It's true that Albariño offers some of the high acidity and minerality often associated with Riesling. But it also offers some peach/apricot fruit that is more reminiscent of Viognier…
The grapes themselves are medium in size but grow in short bunches, their thick skins making them fairly impervious to rot resulting from damp sea mists, a regular occurrence during the summer growing period.
The vines are traditionally trained on pergola-style trellises that are raised high off the ground, around 1,8m or roughly shoulder height. This allows good ventilation in the canopy as well as allowing farmers make full use of the soil below for other crops. Portugal follows similar practices in Vinho Verde country - just across the river Miño from Spain.
The denominación of Rías Baixas is made up of five sub-regions: Val do Salnés, O Rosal, Condado do Tea, Soutomaior and Ribeira do Ulla.
In all of these regions Albariño is the main grape and wines must contain certain specified minimum levels of the grape. The other varietals -Treixadura, Loureira, Caíño and Torrontes - are blended into the wines in varying proportions.
rías' FIVE REGIONS
Val do Salnés is the largest of the five sub-regions and the most important.
Located at sea level, it's found in the north of Rías Baixas and it's
also the coolest and wettest. Minimum Albariño levels are 70%.
O Rosal is on fluvial, terraced land in the south of the appellation.
It's adjacent to the Bajo Miño river that forms the natural border between
Spain and Portugal. The best vineyards are found on hillsides that face south.
The wines display markedly less acid that those of the other sub-regions. According
to denominacion rules Albariño is blended with Loureira up to 70%, with
other varietals making up the remaining 30%.
Condado do Tea is furthest from the coast, towards the east, and is thus
the warmest of the subregions. Its wines are more gutsy and less refined and
delicate. Albariño and Treixadura are blended up to 70% to comply with
DO rules.
The two most recently sanctioned areas are also the smallest: Soutomaior,
just south of the town of Pontevedra, and Ribeira do Ulla, south of the
Camino pilgrimage's final destination, Santiago de Compostela.
