Ralph's
Published: 25 Oct 05
Category: Country Contemporary
Chef/patron Ralph van Pletzen moved from Paarl just over a year ago and opened up Allons Manger on the Koelenhof Road, at what many people know as the antique tracto
r. At the beginning of August, it changed to Ralph's, calling
back the glory days of Ralph's similarly eponymously named restaurant in Stellenbosch
of quite a few years back.
The new reincarnation is spread over a few rooms in a restored house. There's a log fire burning merrily and lots of friendly smiles. But I do so hate it when the first word one's waiter utters after ushering one to the table is "unfortunately".
We had to listen to too many "unfortunatelys" on the evening we dined there. "Unfortunately" the spring chicken masala wasn't available. (At 7.30pm on a Friday night, why not? And if your menu is small enough to be written on a blackboard, then just wipe out the chicken dish line and you'll be left with one fewer "unfortunately".) "Unfortunately" the manageress wasn't able to tell us what bubbly was served by the glass because she'd "gone to Stellenbosch to buy some cream". And our waiter couldn't tell us what was in various sauces because "unfortunately I only started here yesterday".
That's not good enough. How much time do you need to fix in your mind what ingredients are in a limited number of sauces? Our waiter apologised most charmingly for her inadequacies and tried very hard to make up for the poor start, but the damage had been done. It's a great pity, because the rest of the evening was extremely pleasant and the food was very satisfactory. But because the devil is often in the detail, we left not as happy as we should have.
Sophisticated country with a nod towards the east best describes the menu. The saucer full of secrets was a smash hit. Lip-smackingly tasty creamed fish stock with a tower of mussels, scallops, prawns and fresh fish in the centre - attractively presented and the kind of dish you mop up every last drop of. The other starter was a new take on a parental classic - fish fingers. Tender and delicious calamari steak fingers, lightly crumbed, fried and served with a lemon and mayo mousse and a coarsely cut tzatziki.
From the mains menu we chose lamb knuckle and fillet. The lamb would please both gourmand, because of the size, and the gourmet, because of the tenderness and the pleasing harmony of a sauce involving bitter chocolate, Shiraz reduction and chilli. The fillet was served in a pepper crust - a little too peppery for our palates, but otherwise a fine piece of meat. Ralph takes his meat seriously. We were advised against the entrecote because he felt it hadn't been hanging long enough.
Desserts were pleasant without ringing any bells - a slightly-too-doughy malva pudding and flambéed guavas that appeared more stewed than flambéed.
The winelist just passes muster, with a small and intelligent sampling of nearby estates. Some of the choices: Villiera Sauvignon Blanc (R75), Hartenberg Chardonnay (R110), Kaapzicht 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon (R100), and Beyerskloof Synergy 2001 (R110).
Average cost of three-course meal without wine: R140.
Address: Ralph's Restaurant, Koelenhof Road (R304), Stellenbosch. Tel 021 865 2513. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Sat; Sun lunch only. BYO R20. Parking behind a security fence on the grounds.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
Chef/patron Ralph van Pletzen moved from Paarl just over a year ago and opened up Allons Manger on the Koelenhof Road, at what many people know as the antique tracto
The new reincarnation is spread over a few rooms in a restored house. There's a log fire burning merrily and lots of friendly smiles. But I do so hate it when the first word one's waiter utters after ushering one to the table is "unfortunately".
We had to listen to too many "unfortunatelys" on the evening we dined there. "Unfortunately" the spring chicken masala wasn't available. (At 7.30pm on a Friday night, why not? And if your menu is small enough to be written on a blackboard, then just wipe out the chicken dish line and you'll be left with one fewer "unfortunately".) "Unfortunately" the manageress wasn't able to tell us what bubbly was served by the glass because she'd "gone to Stellenbosch to buy some cream". And our waiter couldn't tell us what was in various sauces because "unfortunately I only started here yesterday".
That's not good enough. How much time do you need to fix in your mind what ingredients are in a limited number of sauces? Our waiter apologised most charmingly for her inadequacies and tried very hard to make up for the poor start, but the damage had been done. It's a great pity, because the rest of the evening was extremely pleasant and the food was very satisfactory. But because the devil is often in the detail, we left not as happy as we should have.
Sophisticated country with a nod towards the east best describes the menu. The saucer full of secrets was a smash hit. Lip-smackingly tasty creamed fish stock with a tower of mussels, scallops, prawns and fresh fish in the centre - attractively presented and the kind of dish you mop up every last drop of. The other starter was a new take on a parental classic - fish fingers. Tender and delicious calamari steak fingers, lightly crumbed, fried and served with a lemon and mayo mousse and a coarsely cut tzatziki.
From the mains menu we chose lamb knuckle and fillet. The lamb would please both gourmand, because of the size, and the gourmet, because of the tenderness and the pleasing harmony of a sauce involving bitter chocolate, Shiraz reduction and chilli. The fillet was served in a pepper crust - a little too peppery for our palates, but otherwise a fine piece of meat. Ralph takes his meat seriously. We were advised against the entrecote because he felt it hadn't been hanging long enough.
Desserts were pleasant without ringing any bells - a slightly-too-doughy malva pudding and flambéed guavas that appeared more stewed than flambéed.
The winelist just passes muster, with a small and intelligent sampling of nearby estates. Some of the choices: Villiera Sauvignon Blanc (R75), Hartenberg Chardonnay (R110), Kaapzicht 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon (R100), and Beyerskloof Synergy 2001 (R110).
Average cost of three-course meal without wine: R140.
By John Maytham
Address: Ralph's Restaurant, Koelenhof Road (R304), Stellenbosch. Tel 021 865 2513. Open for lunch and dinner Mon-Sat; Sun lunch only. BYO R20. Parking behind a security fence on the grounds.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
