Monis Port launch at Savoy Cabbage
Monis Port launch at Savoy Cabbage
On an uncharacteristically hot April afternoon, cursing the slow-moving traffic in central Cape Town en route to what is expected to be a long, multi-course luncheon at one of the city's top fine dining restaurants, somehow the thought of an ice-cold glass of, say, Chenin Blanc appeals considerably more than sweet, sticky Port.
Surely better for the launch of the first Vintage Port to be produced by Distell's Monis brand (incidentally making Port since the 1930s) would be by night, somewhere with big fireplaces?
Yet on arrival at the soothingly cool Savoy Cabbage, the idea becomes more appealing, especially following a welcoming glass of chilled Fino. This dry Spanish style sherry that was introduced by the brand some two years or so back strangely enough hasn't quite "caught on", in spite of a growing public interest in tapas, so well suited to this type of fortified wine. It's a delicious prelude to what's coming.
The first taste of the Port is in the wild mushroom and Port consommé, which is, happily, paired with Fleur du Cap's Unfiltered Semillon 2008 rather than Port, while the Gemsbok loin with spiced Port sauce is served with the Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon 2006. Outside the heat causes people to swoon; inside, where the temperature and ambience are perfectly "chilled", it's the food that causes a similar reaction.
But winemaker and "Port aficionado" Dirkie Christowitz gets his moment when the Monis Vintage Port 2006 (R70) is served with a flourish along with Gorgonzola with Port-soaked figs. Christowitz, it turns out, is the man behind Distell's popular Savanna cider, and it's easy to imagine him making an appearance on the famous TV ads ("it's dry, but you can drink it!"). Making Port is his favourite pastime, however.
Christowitz, who has previously produced award-winning Tawny Ports for Monis, is exceptionally proud of their first ever Vintage Port. A blend of mostly Touriga Naçional with Sousão and Tinta Roritz (sourced from "Port capital" Calitzdorp), he says '06 produced grapes of exceptional quality. Only bottled a year ago, he admits there might still be a little bottle shock in evidence, but this "elegant, easy-drinking" Port, which spent a year in wood and the balance of time maturing in tanks, will age beautifully. Which is the great thing about Port - it just gets better with time.
Christowitz, a management member of the South African Port Producers' Association, is a passionate champion of local Ports, and don't get him started on the name debacle. For now, he's calling their Ports just that, and will wait until 2012, when legislation kicks in, to rename it Cape Vintage, sans the "Port" suffix.
Read more about Cape Ports, specifically Calitzdorp producer De Krans, in the May issue of WINE magazine. Also included is news about the upcoming Calitzdorp Port Festival, as well as the results of the Port category tasting. On sale from 20 April 2009 at the recommended retail price of R24.95
