Pomodoro
Published: 08 Jan 06
Category: Italian
Not that there's much to skinder about in Stefano Mas, only accolades, judging by the full-house of happy diners at this restaurant at the back of the Codfather Centre.
Says owner Mas, "Pomodoro Ristorante is borne out of my passion for food,
entertaining and sharing experiences and emotions" - and it shows.
The look at Pomodoro is airy and light, with touches of warmth from the coloured glasses on the white-on-white tables, a russet fireplace with chimney and a saffron wall and pizza oven behind a sweeping counter a welcome respite from the relentless chequered tablecloths of ersatz Mediterranean eateries.
Mas says, "you dress to please others and you eat to please yourself". The food pleased me immensely and so did the dressing-up of the place.
Says Mas, "since I was in matric, owning a restaurant was one of my dreams". Back then he used to organize dinner parties at his father's home in Mexico where he grew up.
According to Mas his Spanish father and Italian mother (from Florence) are both excellent and daring cooks, "and I was exposed to all sorts of different tastes from Italy, Spain, France and Mexico".
The food at Pomodoro is Italian but with some noticeable Spanish and French influences. There are Tapas-style starters, and pastas prepared using true Italian recipes and cooking techniques (simple recipes sauces, pasta al dente and not reclining in slabs of sauce). Our Garganelli with porcini, saffron and whisky was swooningly delicious.
Thin-crust pizzas offer interesting toppings - and thankfully, not mounds of it - with authentic mozzarella.
We also loved the deeply-flavoured Carpaccio di struzzo (thinly sliced ostrich fillet with rocket and a balsamic vinaigrette); I was wild about the Rucola e pomodori (warm pan fried cherry tomatoes tossed in a balsamic and rosemary dressing, served on a bed of rocket and topped with mozzarella). Next time round I might try Cose di Rana (imported frogs' legs in a lemon and pesto sauce).
Meat and seafood dishes are from a combination of Italian, French and Spanish recipes, with veal, beef fillet and steak tartare offered on the small but interesting list.
There is the typical veal, served grilled, as well as French-style green pepper beef fillet and authentic steak tartare. The Filetto di pesce alla catalana (line fish fillet with olive tapenade and pesto sauce) is a Spanish dish that uses the same ingredients they would in Italy - although I found the olive taste a little dominant.
The Involtini di Pollo (chicken roulade with sundried tomato, pancetta and parmesan cheese, with butter and sage) was worth another visit.
Unavoidable desserts are Crêpes Suzette, or al Cioccolato (although I don't have a sweet tooth, this had my vote simply for the Valhrona chocolate used), Feuillete con Frutti di Bosco (puff pastry filled with Chiboust cream, wild berries and a chocolate coulis), chocolate soufflé and gelati.
The winelist is brief, though good, at prices that make the restaurant even more attractive. The list will expand come summer, with the addition of French, Italian and Spanish finds. And, another reason for rejoicing in a city that notoriously doesn't offer good wine by the glass, here most ones are.
Stefano and Marin Mas use organic vegetable, as much as possible - another plus, in my book. This place is a bit of skinder worth spreading…
Average three course meal: R120-R150
Address: The Codfather Village, First Avenue (corner Rivonia Road), Morningside. Tel: 011 803 6554. Entrance and sufficient parking at the back of the centre. Open Tuesdays to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Sunday lunch.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
Not that there's much to skinder about in Stefano Mas, only accolades, judging by the full-house of happy diners at this restaurant at the back of the Codfather Centre.
The look at Pomodoro is airy and light, with touches of warmth from the coloured glasses on the white-on-white tables, a russet fireplace with chimney and a saffron wall and pizza oven behind a sweeping counter a welcome respite from the relentless chequered tablecloths of ersatz Mediterranean eateries.
Mas says, "you dress to please others and you eat to please yourself". The food pleased me immensely and so did the dressing-up of the place.
Says Mas, "since I was in matric, owning a restaurant was one of my dreams". Back then he used to organize dinner parties at his father's home in Mexico where he grew up.
According to Mas his Spanish father and Italian mother (from Florence) are both excellent and daring cooks, "and I was exposed to all sorts of different tastes from Italy, Spain, France and Mexico".
The food at Pomodoro is Italian but with some noticeable Spanish and French influences. There are Tapas-style starters, and pastas prepared using true Italian recipes and cooking techniques (simple recipes sauces, pasta al dente and not reclining in slabs of sauce). Our Garganelli with porcini, saffron and whisky was swooningly delicious.
Thin-crust pizzas offer interesting toppings - and thankfully, not mounds of it - with authentic mozzarella.
We also loved the deeply-flavoured Carpaccio di struzzo (thinly sliced ostrich fillet with rocket and a balsamic vinaigrette); I was wild about the Rucola e pomodori (warm pan fried cherry tomatoes tossed in a balsamic and rosemary dressing, served on a bed of rocket and topped with mozzarella). Next time round I might try Cose di Rana (imported frogs' legs in a lemon and pesto sauce).
Meat and seafood dishes are from a combination of Italian, French and Spanish recipes, with veal, beef fillet and steak tartare offered on the small but interesting list.
There is the typical veal, served grilled, as well as French-style green pepper beef fillet and authentic steak tartare. The Filetto di pesce alla catalana (line fish fillet with olive tapenade and pesto sauce) is a Spanish dish that uses the same ingredients they would in Italy - although I found the olive taste a little dominant.
The Involtini di Pollo (chicken roulade with sundried tomato, pancetta and parmesan cheese, with butter and sage) was worth another visit.
Unavoidable desserts are Crêpes Suzette, or al Cioccolato (although I don't have a sweet tooth, this had my vote simply for the Valhrona chocolate used), Feuillete con Frutti di Bosco (puff pastry filled with Chiboust cream, wild berries and a chocolate coulis), chocolate soufflé and gelati.
The winelist is brief, though good, at prices that make the restaurant even more attractive. The list will expand come summer, with the addition of French, Italian and Spanish finds. And, another reason for rejoicing in a city that notoriously doesn't offer good wine by the glass, here most ones are.
Stefano and Marin Mas use organic vegetable, as much as possible - another plus, in my book. This place is a bit of skinder worth spreading…
Average three course meal: R120-R150
By Gwynne Conlyn
Address: The Codfather Village, First Avenue (corner Rivonia Road), Morningside. Tel: 011 803 6554. Entrance and sufficient parking at the back of the centre. Open Tuesdays to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Sunday lunch.
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
