Planning a Whisky Tour to Scotland
There can be few parts of the world that are more rewarding to travellers than Scotland. And it would seem that no matter where you go you are not too far from a distillery. In fact, when you look at the map, in Scotland you're never too far from anywhere. However, getting there might just take a while - especially to those places off the beaten track. You will soon learn about the single track roads. Maybe common in parts of Africa, but in Scotland, there's no way you can pull off the road to allow oncoming vehicles to pass. You could go tumbling down a steep slope, slide away into a peat bog or be solidly blocked by an ancient hedge. As most of the whisky is now transported in large tankers, the main roads are excellent. But the smaller ones are worth travelling because of the countryside and spectacular views.
Walking However, if it's walking you're after, then the old rail beds make excellent trails, as they are beautifully graded. At one time most distilleries had their coal and grain brought to them and their whisky hauled away by train, so many of the rail beds lead right up to the premises. In fact most of the way up the Spey valley there is an organised walk - the "Speyside way" - which follows the old rail bed. It's well signposted, with maps highlighting the distilleries you can visit using the track. There are buses from certain points that will take you back to where you started, or on to your next destination. This is a great way to spend a couple of days. You get to see Scottish countryside up close, whilst visiting the occasional distillery.
Planning an itineray: Speyside Speyside has the greatest concentration of distilleries, making it a good place to start. The beauty of the upper reaches is magnificent. But as there's no whisky made in the area, there's not much sense starting that far up. However, set out from Granton-on-Spey, and within a few hours of walking you would reach some distilleries. If you do your homework. A dot depicting a distillery on a map, along with its name, could well take up a couple of kilometres, resulting in a considerably longer walk than anticipated! Tamdhu, Cardhu and Knockando all look cosily close to the Spey. But unless you have a map with contours you will not appreciate the steepness of the hills climbing from river level to the distilleries. They are a good couple of kilometres from the river.
Walking might be great, but if time is a problem, motoring is obviously quicker. Although don't forget, tasting a couple of drams at each distillery or pub will soon have you "over the limit". As friendly and helpful as the local cops are, they simply do not tolerate driving under the influence. So each day ensure one of your party is on driving duty and takes no part in the sampling.
There are 90 or so working distilleries in Scotland, and there's no way you can cover them all in just a couple of days. Rather select your favourite whiskies and head for those distilleries. Or pick an area and travel around that region for a couple of days.
Remember, there's a lot more to Scotland besides whisky. There are fabulous eateries of all kinds. Scottish beef, salmon and seafood. Not to mention shortbread and preserves. And you should try at least one great Scottish breakfast. And don't forget the porridge! You'll find many Scottish cooks who take great pride in their preparation of "oats". This is usually cracked oats (not the rolled version we know), served piping hot with butter and honey. Not unusual to have the oats soaked overnight in good malt whisky and served with a good dram!
Edinburgh
Most folk enter Scotland via Glasgow or Edinburgh, although you can fly to various other destinations in the Highlands, as well as to the islands. The nearest distillery to Edinburgh is Glenkinchie which, although a Lowland distillery is actually a good place to start.
Edinburgh is also home to the headquarters of the Scotch Whisky Association, who publish an annual guide Distilleries Which Welcome Visitors. The 1999 edition lists 40, giving location, owners, contact numbers, opening times, admission charges if any, and what is offered by way of tours, tastings, shops, eateries and special attractions. These include the Victorian Garden, cooperage or maltings. Take note that because of the age, size and quaint design of many distilleries, very few have full facilities for the physically handicapped.
Alongside Edinburgh Castle is the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre, where you can experience the history and mystery of Scotch. There's also a great whisky educational exhibition. In case you can't actually visit a distillery, here you can see lifesize vats, models of distilleries and stills. There is also a Scotch whisky tasting bar and a restaurant serving traditional Scottish food. And, of course, a gift shop where you can buy Malts and Blends.
Glasgow If you begin from Glasgow you will find a number of distilleries within fairly easy driving distance. Auchentoshan and Littlemill are both classified as Lowland, yet their water sources are actually from across the line that is considered to divide Lowland from Highland. Close-by Glengoyne has its distillery on the Highland side of the line, while its warehouses across the road are in the Lowlands! (The malt whisky of Glengoyne is produced from unpeated malt).
For real aficionados who want to know all there is to know about Scotch, there are two grain distilleries in or on the outskirts of Glasgow which are really worth a visit. However, these are by arrangement only, as they don't have regular visitor facilities.
The massive red brick distillery at Dumbarton could make you think you were looking at a typical North American distillery. This is hardly surprising, having being built by Hiram Walker in the 1930s, and now part of Allied Domecq. It's a maize distillery and a charming place to visit, despite its size. Right in Glasgow is the Port Dundas Distillery, standing on top of a hill where one can find some of the earliest Coffey stills. Like Cameron Bridge in Fife, the grain whiskies from these distilleries make their way into the traditional United Distillers whiskies such as Johnnie Walker, White Horse and Haig. (Cameron Bridge also produces a single grain under the Cameron Brig label).
Distilleries of note If you were to centre yourself in Dufftown, you would have easy access to a number of distilleries, although most require visitors to make an appointment. One of the very best distilleries geared for visitors is Glenfiddich. This is a great experience, and one of the few distilleries where you can see bottling on the premises. Glenfiddich also sports one of the best gift shops. Right next door is The Balvenie Distillery, also owned by William Grant.
Not too far from Glenfiddich, literally a few minutes by car, is the Speyside Cooperage. This too is well-geared for visitors and makes for a fascinating visit, particularly as the oak barrel plays such an important part in the production of whisky.
In the opposite direction, is Glen Livet and The Glenlivet Distillery (owned by Chivas). And also close-by is the town of Keith, home to Strathisla, one of the oldest, most quaint distilleries in Scotland. This is where the famous deluxe blend, Chivas Regal, can be found.
Going "up" the Spey, Glen Grant at Rothes is well worth a visit, not only for the whisky, but also for the magnificently restored Victorian Gardens. Further up river you'll find The Macallan and one of the most modern distilleries in the world, Auchroisk (oth-rusk).
In Aberlour is the Aberlour Distillery, where only Scottish barley is used and all the casks are closed with cork bungs as opposed to oak! Next door is a bakery that produces a well-known brand of shortbread.
On the north-east coast, Glenmorangie (glen m'ranjie) is one of the best places to head for with its peculiar tall stills and its "sixteen men of Tain". Further north, on Orkney, is Highland Park.
On the west coast, exscellent whiskies are produced on the island of Islay, which is easily accessible by air or ferry. Here, very close to each other on the southern shore are Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. In the centre of the island is the famous Bowmore, where you will find an Olympic length, heated swimming pool (Amar snamh in Gaelic), built inside an old warehouse to give the locals an opportunity to swim in those normally cold climes.
Up the coast, looking across to Jura are the distilleries of Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain. On Jura (where George Orwell lived while he wrote 1984), there is a distillery from where you should walk to the northern end of the island to see the whirl-pool of Corryvrecken - it sounds almost like a jet plane taking off as the waves rise and fall, and it's fascinating to watch the seals surfing on the edge of the massive whirling pool.
Books
Besides the great library of books on Scotch whisky and maps showing where the distilleries are situated, these books are particularly useful for visiting distilleries:
The Whisky Trails By Gordon Brown. Published by Prion (1993).
Malt Whisky By Graham Nown, published by Salamander (1997). Good location maps.
Scotch and Water: An Illustrated Guide to the Hebridean Malt Whisky Distilleries By Neil Wilson, a specialist publication originally printed in '85 and reprinted in '89, '92, '98. Ideal for those visiting by sailing boat, but I have followed the route using ferries and hired cars and reached places like Arran, Islay, Jura, Oban, Mull and Skye. It's easy to drive to the ferry departure points from Glasgow. The route is well sign-posted and about two hours' drive - but check your departure points, as ferries for the various islands leave from different places.
Places of interest Another local "whisky man" and good friend of aficionado Dave Hughes, is the proprietor of Devon Valley Hotel in Stellenbosch, where his trophies can be seen and sipped by those with a taste for a fine dram. DAVID NATHAN-MAISTER lists some of his favourite places for those planning to travel the Scotch Whisky Trail:
The Quaich Bar: At the Craigelachie Hotel in Speyside. It's the "Best Whisky Bar and Hotel on Earth". Pricey but unbelievable selection, all available for tasting; great atmosphere. Leave your own tasting notes in the books provided at the bar. Tel +44 (0) 1340 881 204.
The Lochside Hotel: Good value; 400 malts in the bar; great food. Tel +44 (0) 1496 810 244.
Royal Mile Whiskies: Best whisky shop in Edinburgh. Tel +44 (0) 131 225 3383.
Milroy's of Soho: Best whisky shops in London. Tel +44 (0) 171 437 2385.
Dallas Dhu: Near Elgin. Best whisky museum: a former distillery, run by Historic Scotland. Tel +44 (0) 1309 676 548.
Macallan: On the banks of the Spey, a distillery not officially open to the public, but they will happily show you around if you phone or write in advance. A chance to see one of the greatest malts being made in a surprisingly un-touristy atmosphere. Tel +44 (0) 1343 547 433.
Talisker: Great location on Skye, fascinating distillery to tour. Tel +44 (0) 1478 640 314.
Tobermory: On the Isle of Mull, one of the most beautifully located sea-side distilleries. Tel +44 (0) 1688 302 645
