Paul Cluver tasting room review
Driving back to the N2, you pass more fruit-packing operations to get to this family-driven estate. Good directions make finding the entrance easy; less clear is whether the railway you cross at the gate is no longer in operation, since no signage warns you otherwise...
The winery is also not situated in an area blessed by the aesthetics fairy, but the Cluvers have carved out a neat, beautiful establishment nonetheless. Trimmed lawns, fountains and roses mark the division between posh and paltry. A pebbled path takes you to the tasting room, where a separate entrance provides wheelchair access.
The area set outside for tastings is small, and made even more so by a big, ornate table-and-chair design carved out of cypress that is mounted on a big slab of stone (not the maker's most pragmatic creation...). In the rather confined space, the only other seats are two chairs in a corner. In another, there's a picture of one of the Summer Concerts held at the farm's amphitheatre.
I turn to taste wines at the counter, where Juleen has finished clicking on her computer. She is not overly friendly but focused and helpful. All the wines are available for tasting, except the Weisser Riesling and Gewürztraminer 2008, which are sold out.
Juleen proceeds to pour the wines, indicating that the Sauvignon Blanc is their flagship, while the Chardonnay 2008 is soon to be sold out. I find her to be a genuine host, informed enough without coming across as having practised her lines. The Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 that she pours is overtly oxidised, though. It was opened the day before, she admits, and on smelling it herself she readily opens a fresh bottle.
Juleen reveals that this vintage might be the last bottled by the estate. There is value in The Elgin Blend (R60), a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz blend, and much enjoyment to be had in the Noble Late Harvest 2007 (R160). I'm not done tasting, though, and ask about the Slowine range displayed next to the counter.
These wines are the product of a collective project in which Paul Cluver Estate is involved, explains Juleen. In a moment of boldness I ask to taste the Slowine Shiraz 2006, which turns out to be horrible - I'd rather have the oxidised Cab, and say so. Juleen is diplomatic, however, and not in a position to agree...
I leave soon afterwards, order in hand: three bottles of The Elgin Blend and one of the Late Harvest packed in branded boxes.
Tel 021 844 0605, www.cluver.com
OPEN: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 09:00 - 15:00
SERVICE: 7/10 - focused on the
job at hand
AMBIENCE: 5/10 - at least
"the table" is unique
VALUES: 4/10 - the whites are well
crafted and have personality
QUALITY: 5/10 - Noble Late Harvest
gets my overall vote
Photographs by Danie Nel
