Pascal Tingaud, Chef de Cuisine for Dom Pérignon
Pascal Tingaud, Chef de Cuisine for Dom Pérignon and Moët & Chandon, is both charming and personable as he casually gives us a warm welcome into the kitchen at Ellerman House in Bantry Bay; so relaxed that you almost cannot believe he personally cooks for the likes of Scarlett Johansson, royalty and heads of state.
Photographs by Danie Nel
Ambassador for brand Dom Pérignon, Chef Tingaud adds his own flair to a much-loved substance. With each new vintage is yet another chance to accentuate the exceptional flavours of an aspirational wine, known the world over, even if it has not yet been tasted. His quest is to enhance each moment with Dom Pérignon.
Pascal mentions he likes to work with the duality of flavours, founded around a core of ‘simplicity’, which can be rather challenging. “Sometimes simplicity is the hardest thing to follow.” But it’s important to use minimal ‘authentic’ ingredients in order to “respect each flavour in the simplest but most effective way, thus revealing the specificity of Dom Pérignon”.
The 2002 is a highly concentrated vintage; Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon’s Chef de Cave describes it as “a magnetic, still-elusive wine that fully reveals the dual nature of Dom Pérignon.”
Pascal develops something of a ‘taste tour’ to demonstrate the idea behind this concept of ‘simplicity’ in pairing. A small taste of foie gras – with its depth of flavour, almost a fattiness – is an interesting diversion to the purity of the Champagne. Foie gras may not always be seen as ‘politically correct’ fare, but the richness of texture does show that sparkling wine is not made exclusively for aperitif purposes. It is capable of many layers and textures by its inherent contrasts.
Seafood is always an excellent match. Oysters partnered with gentle ginger again accentuate how singular flavours reveal something new in the wine. There is a minutiae of salt air on the aroma and the fine texture of sea life matches the wine’s finesse.
Scallops are simply paired with varying Thai flavours – try one with soy, lime, salt or plain. These condiments bring forth particular nuances; a rich food source develops accentuated flavours when one other new item is introduced, adding further taste dimensions.
Parmigiano cheese crisps provide something of a surprise. The first thought is that the rich savoury cheese will overpower the wine, but the nuttiness and brioche character surge forth in unison.
Another superb pairing is that of the fi ne texture and flavour of guineafowl. The delicate flesh is absolutely matched by the velvet sutures of Dom Pérignon’s full mouthfeel.
Turkish delight usually extracts a noticeable reaction. With a rose-petal enhanced sorbet-style ice cream Rosé loukoum, this takes one to new levels of delight. The Turkish-delight aromas are on par with the delicate fragrance of the wine, and the flavour so subtle and pure, it is almost like tasting the essence of rose petals.
Pascal ‘discovered’ the difference that water can make to cooking when a friend explained that his Spanish wife used only water from her native town to boil the rice for a ‘proper paella’. He was required to bring back 60 litres of water each time he visited Spain.
Pascal was reminded that sushi tastes so different when in Japan, although the same ingredients are used; and in many cases, water is the main cooking component, no matter the methodology, whether preparing rice, pasta or vegetables. This certainly makes a difference and speaks of a kind of ‘food terroir’.
Influenced by the experiences of his many travels around the world, each and every country imparts a new inspiration. “You’ll learn something new every time.” In South Africa he enjoyed trying ostrich and he likes the idea of a match with a good-quality Rosé.
In terms of sharing the core of his recipes while exploring his food and wine pairing approach, he reverts again to the simplicity concept. Play around with only two ingredients, he suggests, and work with a duality: “Soft and crispy, salty and sweet, black and white, warm and cold; it always reveals new flavours each time you eat and drink with Dom Pérignon.”
DOM PÉRIGNON 2002 TASTING NOTES
THE NOSE
The first hints of fresh almond and harvest aromas immediately open up into lemon and dried fruits, rounded
off by smoky and toasted qualities.
THE PALATE
Paradoxically concentrated yet creamy, it is energetic and warm in the mouth, focusing on the fruit, then
gradually taking on more profound base notes.
INDISPENSABLES
In the kitchen, an indispensable requirement for Pascal is having a good fire with a temperature that is precise, because for him cooking is all about the quality of the cooking time, as well as seasoning.
A must-have ingredient that he cannot do without emphasises his underlying philosophy of simplicity: salt. Without salt, he says, there will be no real taste enhancement.
