Discovering the wineries along Montagu Pass
THE ROUTE
Take the N12 out of George and from the base of the Outeniqua Pass just outside the town, turn right onto the Montagu Pass dirt road. Drive through the ravines of the Outeniqua Mountains until reaching the sleepy village of Herold. Drive past the village, and at the T-junction turn right onto the N9 and head in the direction of Uniondale to The Goose Wines. Without stops, the journey will take roughly 45 minutes.
MONTAGU PASS
Built by convicts in the 1840s to connect the Karoo with the coast, the historic Montagu Pass is one of four passes that traverse the Outeniqua Mountains – and is without a doubt the most spectacular. Named after Colonial Secretary of the Cape of the time, John Montagu, the peaceful route meanders past a few farms, but most of the drive is through the Witfontein Nature Reserve, along the river and past a small collection of waterfalls.
Today it’s a serene drive, but this wasn’t always the case as it was once a popular route for ox wagons and cars – quite incredible given the steep inclines and winding passages. The opening of the Outeniqua Pass in 1951, however, relieved pressure from the pass and it has since become a national monument.
Although it should only take 20 minutes to drive the full distance of the pass and you are unlikely to meet many other cars along the route, it’s a particularly narrow road and care should be taken around the sharp bends.
FIRST STOP: THE OLD TOLLHOUSE
Take in the views and some history at the old tollhouse, built in the 1840s. Once a point of call for travellers paying their two-pence toll per wheel (and one penny for each pulling animal), it’s now a neglected national monument that guards the pinnacle of the pass.
SECOND STOP: HEROLD WINES
Turn right through the stone gates of Herold Wines and follow the farm road past fields of hops for 2.1km. A right turn will take you to the cellar where you’ll be greeted by winemaker Vivian Harpur.
This boutique winery set against the backdrop of Cradock Peak first planted vines in 2001 and today specialises in a particularly drinkable Sauvignon Blanc and a much-praised, Old Worldstyle Pinot Noir. Vivian also lovingly produces a Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz blend called Red Men and Skaam Skaap (Embarrassed Sheep), a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, “the result of an accident in cellar”, she says with a mischievous grin.
It’s a modest operation with no airs or graces. The tasting room has a charm that cannot be replicated and Vivian is proud that she has steered clear of plush couches and ornate chandeliers, instead opting for a more homely, rustic atmosphere. “We like this little bit of obscurity,” she says.
Light lunches are served in the tasting room, so time your trip so that you arrive here around midday (tel 072 833 8223).
THIRD STOP: HEROLD
From Herold Wines, head back down the farm road to the pass and continue along this road, turning right into the town of Herold. Once a thriving village that benefited from the influx of cart wagons coming over the pass, the town’s fortunes changed when the Outeniqua Pass opened and traffic diminished. Now just a smattering of buildings, Over the Mountain Guest Farm and tea garden, housed in the old school, police station and post office, is one of few places of interest (tel 073 170 7120).
FOURTH STOP: THE GOOSE WINES
Leave Herold by turning left, back onto the Montagu Pass. Turn right at the T-junction onto the N9, travelling for another 15 minutes until you see the stone wall entrance of The Goose Wines.
It’s here that businessman Werner Roux, winemaker Morné Jonker and champion golfer Retief Goosen have combined efforts to create cool-climate, Old World-style wines that have found their way into restaurants and wine boutiques around the world.
The farm, named after Goosen’s nickname ‘the Goose’, is open by appointment only, so call ahead, and be prepared for a truly unique experience. Morné conducts tastings on a tee-box overlooking the dam and vineyards and covers the full range of premier Goose wines (a Sauvignon Blanc and a Shiraz- Cabernet blend called Expression) as well as the entry-level Gander wines (a Sauvignon Blanc and a Shiraz priced at a pocket-friendly R75). Visitors also have the opportunity to take a couple of swings with a TaylorMade driver, driving the ball towards the dam and, for something completely different, Morné flies personal guests on his micro-light to Sedgfield for tastings on the beach (tel 082 653 6800).
