Out and about in Cederberg
The first time I visited the Cederberg, the passing landscape en route to the mountains was awash in bright colours. In the distance mountains capped with snow framed the lush green landscape. Fluffy Jerseys grazed in fields adorned with arum lilies, and sheep stood puffed up and fat like cotton-wool next to stretches of yellow canola. Closer to Citrusdal, orchards were pregnant with the singing of those harvesting oranges the size of grapefruit. It was almost time for the flowering season, and in the fields daisies were competing for attention with skilpadbessie and vygie.
Photographs by Peter Olivier
Crossing the Pakhuis Pass just after Clanwilliam and passing writer and wine lover C Louis Leipoldt’s grave into the mountainous terrain was like a portal to a lost world. The sandstone formations look strange and out of place, natural wonders perhaps more suited to the deserts of Arizona, yet the red, luminous rock faces are the postcard feature of the Cederberg. At sunrise and sunset these formations burn even brighter, with the trademark cedar trees becoming intricate silhouettes against the horizon. Once beheld, you won’t erase this beauty from your memory. In fact, the luminosity is so intense that, upon my return to Cape Town, I still saw those red mountains in my dreams (an occurrence that is not strange if you understand the esoteric nature of the Cederberg). It is a valley filled with legends of ghosts and ritual gatherings. In caves you still encounter bushman paintings of elephants – drawings indicating that the area held specific spiritual significance for tribes that once roamed here.
It is slightly ironic that the landscape is more lunar-like than lush as the Cederberg is also a place of water. The area is renowned for its deep, black waterholes in which you can cool down during the scorching summers…
However, when I first visited, the season was just turning to spring and it was cold and wet. Against the rocks streaks of black stains formed where water trickled down or filtered through. I was on my way to Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat, where the Boontjiesriver (literally Beans River) was flowing effortlessly over cobble stones. The only sound was of the torrents cutting through the otherwise silent landscape.
My love affair with the Cederberg had begun.
Perhaps it is appropriate that I started my love affair at Cederberg’s most exclusive destination. Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat, a boutique establishment set right in the heart of North Cederberg, is owned by Vicky Tollman, the same proprietor as that of renowned Hemelen- Aarde winery Bouchard Finlayson, near Hermanus.
It is therefore not surprising that apart from its luxurious setting and features, Bushmanskloof also caters for the wine fanatic. An impressive wine list ensures imbibers have plenty well-sourced choices, while special wine evenings provide diners with a more in-depth wine experience.
I attended one of these wine evenings where winemaker Roger Burton, from Tierhoek (Wine of Origin Piekenierskloof), presented his wines matched with immaculate dishes prepared by chef Floris Smith. In the dining hall, a log fire added to the cosy atmosphere, and as it progressively burnt lower I made my way through a line-up which included some rich, generous Chenin Blancs and a delicious straw wine. It was an evening which reflected the old-world class which prevails here.
My suite, situated on a dam frequented by Egyptian geese, African coot and other unknown colourful water birds, housed an opulent interior, immaculately decorated to complement the surroundings. Double doors opened onto private patios and the pool, with a fireplace in the main lounge ensuring a place well suited to all climates. And everywhere was the sound of water...
In winter you would feel snug and comfortable in the plush bedding offered by the luxury suites at Bushmanskloof, but the Cederberg is ultimately a place for the lover of the outdoors. Which is why recreational activities – even leisure ones like spa treatments – are centred around the outdoors.
Exploring on foot is truly the best way to experience the beauty of the Cederberg. Numerous hiking trails lead into the mountains, allowing nature lovers to experience not just the obvious beauty of the region, but also the small and intimate details of its fauna and flora.
Nature wears her heart on her sleeve here and she is quite generous with her beauty. The unhurried naturalist will appreciate the mating call ritual of the Cape Clapper. With a twip-twip-twiptweeeeep the small male lark flies up, closes his wings mid-air and ‘falls’ to the ground. The closer to the ground he opens his wings to avoid injury, the more serious his mating proposal is considered by the female Cape Clapper. In the Cederberg, just before spring, the sound of the Clappers’ dance echoes across the veld.
But it is at sunset that the Cederberg is at its most impressive. Not just for the majestic way the mountains glow bright red as it catches the sun, but also for the subtle change in pace. The Clanwilliam daisy closes and the Fragrant Evening Flower releases its scent, bulbuls and successful Clappers call their newfound mates to roost and crickets start rehearsing. It is the perfect time to open a chilled bottle of Sauvignon Blanc – not simply because its label design reflects the signature cedar tree – but because it is one of the best examples of this variety on offer.
This wine has its origins in South Cederberg, close to Algeria, where winemaker David Nieuwoudt tends to his high-altitude vineyards.
The quality from this 53-hectare patch of vines – a collection of Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Viognier and a bit of Bukettraube – is well known. Although it is especially the farm’s white wines, with their pure fruit expression, backed up by subtle minerality, which best encapsulates the wine-growing potential of this area.
I visit David on a return visit to the Cederberg – this time in summer. From Clanwilliam you can reach Cederberg winery by a gravel road which runs alongside the Clanwilliam dam and its feeding river, and although this stretch of road (some 75km) offers spectacular sites, it isn’t the friendliest road. It is better suited to a 4x4, although we passed enough sedans to suggest that this stretch of dirt road can be conquered by most vehicles – as long as you drive slowly.
“You really do live in a godforsaken part of the country,” I said to David when I finally arrived at his premises. “It is exactly the opposite,” he answered. “This is where God lives.”
The road keeps numbers down that is for sure. And, as David says, by the time you reach your destination your frills and airs have been shaken from you, and you are ready to enjoy the rustic charm of the mountains.
Of course you can stay here. On the farm David and his wife Cisca run Sanddrif holiday resort with self-catering units and a campsite situated on the banks of the Dwarsrivier. Here, apart from the sound of the river cobbling beneath, it is as quiet as a sigh. If the beauty of Cederberg could be bottled, then it would taste like this, I thought, enjoying a bottle of Chenin Blanc, sitting feet up on the stoep of my cottage.
The Niewoudts of Cederberg started farming in the area as early as 1835, when the district was better known for fruit growing. There is still something very authentic about this remote corner of our country, and, given David’s personality, it is unsurprising that he chose to continue his family’s tradition here. Only he had a different vision – one which included vines. There were some plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage in 1977, but wine-growing here began in earnest in 1997 when the first vines were planted for winemaking and selling.
The grapes from these vines are healthy, clean like the mountain water that feeds them and unburdened by diseases like mildew. Due to the cool micro-climate which prevails here, grapes also benefit from longer ripening periods, resulting in concentrated flavour profiles. The favourable weather conditions also enable David to slowly experiment with organic farming methods – most recently producing a decent Rosé from a patch of organic Shiraz on the farm.
These organic farming practices are also in line with the location of Cederberg cellars in Cape Nature’s Cederberg Wilderness Area, which encompasses natural sites such as the stone formation Maltese Cross, the cave-like mountain coves at Wolfberg Cracks, the impressive Stadsaal Caves and bushman-art locations.
If you stay at Sanddrif, all these outdoor wonders beg to be explored, but whether you choose to discover the valley on foot or to sit with your feet up; whether you relax in rustic charm or in plush comfort, the Cederberg is the place to unwind. And since there is no cellphone reception, the only thing that will recharge is your mind.
David made the right choice to live here. He was wrong about one thing, however. “Not everyone will survive here,” he said. I am sorry David, but I beg to differ.
Clanwilliam
Don’t overlook Clanwilliam when visiting the Cederberg. In fact, it serves as a very appropriate halfway stop when traversing both north and south Cederberg. Therefore, you’d be wise to investigate the numerous self-catering options offered here.
Be sure to eat at Reinholds Restaurant (tel 027 482 2163) in town, with its photo memorabilia of famous Afrikaans singers posing with owner Emil Strassberger. Adjacent Emil’s is good for lunch, too (tel 027 482 2163). Also be sure to stop at Kardoesie on top of Piekenierskloof Pass for the delicious homemade pies (tel 022 921 2382).
WHERE TO STAY
• Sanddrif self-catering chalets at Cederberg charge R600 per night for four people sharing (plus R75 per additional person). Call 027 482 2825 for accommodation and 027 482 2827 for wine-related enquiries or visit www.cederbergwine.com. The tasting room is open on weekdays and Saturdays, 09:00 to 12:00 and 14:00 to 16:00.
• Rates at Bushmanskloof Wilderness and Wellness Retreat start at R2 900 per person sharing per night for a luxury room. For reservations, call 021 481 1860 or visit www.bushmanskloof.co.za.
WINES TO TRY
Cederberg Bukettraube 2010
(ex-cellar: R65)
One of the few locally produced examples on offer. This particular one has a lovely viscosity offset by vibrant acidity. A brilliant match with bobotie.
Cederberg Five Generations
2009 (ex-cellar: R200)
A classic example of beautiful Chenin Blanc. Some melon, floral and lime notes. Palate is fresh and pure with a core of lively acidity. Delicious.
Cederberg Private Cellar Sauvignon Blanc 2010
(ex-cellar: R85)
One of the top wines in the 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Top 10. Shows beautiful mineral notes with a tinge of green fig in attendance.
Tierhoek Straw Wine 2006
(ex-cellar: R140)
The Chenin grapes for this specific wine (harvested from vines in Piekenierskloof) are air-dried, resulting in delicious honeyed aromas.
WHERE TO BUY
CEDERBERG WINES
from Meridian (tel 0861 113 959)
or the cellar (tel 027 482 2825).
