Orange River
Somewhere down the crazy river
Five wineries. Twenty winemakers. Massive yields and one river. Will the country's largest co-op be the ultimate wine survivor? Jeanri- Tine van Zyl travels north to find out...
Everything here in this, vast space is emphasised. Patches of red Kalahari sand dot the northern corner of South Africa and lone soldiers - Quiver Trees (Aloe dichotoma) - are like towering beacons in this desolate landscape. Here the wind whips up sand and amplifi es sunsets, and at night the sky is dotted with stars hidden from cities countrywide.
It has extreme climes; cold that cuts to the bone and heat that makes breathing unbearable. In summer dark clouds bring heavy rains and hail stones the size of golf balls. In winter the sky is so blue it drowns you. It is a landscape beautiful in its starkness.
It is no wonder that there are numerous guesthouses in Upington that provide beds to visitors wanting to experience the openness of its scenery and the hospitality of its inhabitants. People travel here for natural wonders like the Augrabies Waterfall, Namaqualand and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Members of the automotive industry head here in droves to test cars prior to their global release.
Running through this fascinating part of our country is the mighty Orange River, an aorta that pumps life into the land. From Groblershoop in the East to Kakamas in the West, this river also feeds 4 500h of wine-grape vineyards, stretching for 350 kilometres along both sides of the river. Indeed, the sheer numbers quoted by producers here are staggering.
In this stretch close to 900 farms deliver crops that yield upwards of 40 tons per hectare. "Grape bunches so big they touch the ground, even when swung over the shoulders of a grown man," are the Canaan-type legends that prevail here.
And yes, in some places, where the date plantations border on vineyards, it does look like ‘The Promised Land'. Growers clearly planted with a vision when they embarked on vine cultivation in the early 1900s. Initially this venture focused on the growing of sultana grapes. It was only some years later, with the fi rst harvest of table grapes in 1968 and the establishment of Oranjerivier Wynkelders co-op, that the possibility of cultivating grapes for table wine became a serious consideration. It would take another couple of years for the first wines to appear under the Oranjerivier Wynkelders label in 1992.
Today cellars in Groblershoop, Grootdrink, Keimos, Upington and Kakamas are collectively known as Orange River Wine Cellars (previously Oranjerivier Wynkelders) - the world's second-largest co-op distilling million of litres of rebate wine to Distell and KWV. Spar's Country Cellars series adds another couple of million to the equation, with wine under Orange River's own labels being close to 17 million litres.
When I visited, cellarmasters and winemakers were all talking of "die groot proe" (the big tasting), a massive task that sees the ranking and tasting of tank samples pulled from seven million litres worth of content. The Orange River Wine Cellars does wine in bottle, PET (plastic) and box - and this is without mentioning the export wines - and at this tasting (one of few) it is decided which goes where.
For such grand-scale production the cellars, including the main building in Upington, are as unassuming as the landscape. The façade doesn't allude to the giant tanks under roof, the thousands of tons processed at the back, the millions of rands in turn-over, the great amount of jobs created...
Understandably this is one of the first things head marketing manager Koos Visser (pictured here) mentions. "Our setting is one of our greatest challenges," he says. He explains that Upington Wine Cellars' location in ‘downtown Upington' close to railways made sense ‘back then', but the historical setting is not in line with the co-operative wine cellar's new image.
The name change to Orange River Wine Cellars is but the pinnacle of the co-op's rebranding. Central to this image repositioning is emphasis on quality - something that is, mistakenly, not always associated with the name. Why? "That perception exists purely because, historically, we were considered rebate wine producers - and members of the Boland involved with the building of these cellars, nou ja, they still consider us as only that. And yes, it is possible that the [table] wines weren't always up to standard," admits Visser.
Presently the co-op is geared towards "top grapes and top wine at top prices", and it is not just talk. Comprehensive market research has resulted in new labels, depicting the cellar's unique ‘heritage' in images of meerkats, tortoises, Quiver Trees and sunsets.
The appointment of viticulturists at each cellar to closely monitor grape quality in line with the grading system (that pays best for A+ crops), the use of smaller tanks and the identification of quality wines at individual cellars means that wines under these new labels had been subjected to sensitive handling - even when treated in bulk. Whether in box or bottle, says Visser, "we have never been ashamed of our product".
In line with this makeover are talks of a niche cellar and tasting room in town on a plot that overlooks the river. There will also be a restaurant and self-catering units on site. If all goes according to plan this should be completed by December this year. Changes are also occurring on the viticultural front, and the appointment of five viticulturalists to manage the terrain signals a move to prioritise micro management in a macro-environment.
"The brand starts in the vineyard," says head viticulturist Henning Burger, and let the people of Stellenbosch say what they want about averaging a 30- to 50-ton yield - bigger is better. Careful management of sugar, pH and acidity levels is central to this approach that seeks to attentively exploit the full bearing potential of vines. "It works if there is balance," says Henning (pictured here), who was a lecturer at the department of viticulture and oenology at the University of Stellenbosch before relocating to Upington.
Members of Orange River Wine Cellars pride themselves in their unique terroir and the diversity of the relevant appellations. Don't be fooled into thinking that it's just a desert climate that prevails here; as the river widens into a delta of islets, vines benefit from the cooling effect of the water.
This meso-climate assists growers in producing grapes with high natural acidity and low pH values - so good in fact that no acid adjustment is needed in cellar. Most of the noble grape varieties grow here and there are even talks of planting Pinot Noir.
Currently white grape production outweighs red by 90% to 10%, with the most celebrated varietals being Chenin and Colombar. And of course there are the widely planted Muscadel grapes that get made into the area's famous sweet wines...
Terroir is evident in the riper flavours of the reds that, more often than not, are exposed to stave ageing in an attempt to guard the fruit flavours of wines. "We can't, and don't want to, produce a Western Cape Cab," is Henning's feeling. Henning is adamant that wines should "reflect the area and tickle the consumer", and with winemakers increasingly encouraged to experiment with wines on a smaller scale, the appellation expression is much more evident.
Two young guns having particular success in their ‘nurseries' are Rianco van Rooyen at Keimoes and Ferdinand (Fredi) Laubscher at Groblershoop cellar. Van Rooyen followed the calling of the river following stints at Muratie, Boschendal and Delheim, whereas Laubscher was previously at Neil Ellis and Vergelegen.
They approach the meticulous task of sifting, identifying and nurturing specific tanks at their respective cellars in a manner that Henning sums up most accurately: "To extract what they extract... it wouldn't have been possible if they didn't have respect for these grapes..."
At Keimoes, massive steel tanks stand like eerie giants in the 27 000- ton processing plant. "Pick any tank that I should draw a sample from," says Rianco as an answer to a question on quality control. The size of the cellar might be daunting, but, for the winemaker in control, it is critical that standards are upheld - no matter which tank it is.
It is the Chenin Blanc and the Petit Verdot in barrel that are especially intriguing, clearly illustrating the potential of the Northern Cape. In the past ‘experiments' like these would've been blended away, but the renewed focus at Orange River means that there is a definite move to identify wines that can qualify for exclusive bottling - there are even talks of a ‘Reserve' range.
There is ‘Rianco's Red' (as it is currently referred to until named), a barrel-matured blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet, that will be released as a Premium Blend in 2011, for example.
Charming Ferdi at Groblershoop is thorough in his task. "My job is to make wine; I don't work in a factory." Just being good enough isn't an option for Rianco and Ferdi, that much is obvious. And while they may shake their heads at sarcastic jabs - "André van Rensburg [from Vergelegen] says it is better to drink the river water here than the wines," laughs Ferdi - they, like the whole team behind Orange River Cellars, are focused on silencing the critics.
For now they are just awaiting that gold medal sticker on one of their bottles...
MORE INFO ON THE WINES
Orange River Cellars is known for many things, but its true attraction is in the value that is to be found in its wines.
All the white wines are under R22.00 - and that is not an indication of standard. The 2010 Chenin and Colombar vintages are simply some of the best quaffing wines produced. And of course, its Muscadel is legendary... (More expensive at R31.85 a bottle.)
Although this region is characterised by very hot, dry summers, wines are surprisingly low in alcohol. Ferdinand Laubscher at Groblershoop explains that due to the high yields, some bunches do not reach optimum ripeness, resulting in sugar levels that are unevenly spread, balancing alcohol levels...
Every year the wine fraternity travels up north for the very important Spar Country Cellars Orange River Winemaker of the Year competition and the equally important party afterwards...
WHERE TO STAY, EAT, PLAY...
• Sun River Kalahari Lodge is situated in Upington on the banks of the Orange River and has spacious rooms and a deck that is under construction following the flood in February. Tel 054 332 2210
• Chinese lanterns compete with zebra prints at the Kalahari Gateway Hotel in Kakamas, where you can eat sushi expertly prepared by Gerrie de Beer (no barbel just fresh salmon and trout!). Tel 054 431 0838
• Le Must Country Restaurant in Upington - local boerekos meets French flair. Tel 054 332 6700
• About restaurant, also in Upington, for fine cuisine. Tel 054 332 4329
