Old-world charm in McGregor
It’s near impossible to count the number of dusty dirt roads that spider through the Karoo, leading over hills and mountains to villages, homesteads and farms. Nearly two centuries ago, one of these many winding, narrow roads was destined to become a new route to Cape Town, passing through McGregor, over the mountains, traversing the Boesmanskloof Pass to Greyton.
Had this new road actually been completed, McGregor would have looked very different today and probably would never be known as ‘South Africa’s bestpreserved 19thcentury Karoo village’.
Construction of the road, which today is still untarred, ended just outside the village (for reasons unknown), not far from Lord’s Winery – and thanks to this, McGregor has retained oldworld winelands charm. Added to this, it’s resisted the temptation to become a ‘yuppie’ destination with an ancient twopump petrol station servicing all vehicles and no ATM. But there’s no shortage of gluggable wine, fabulous dining and fascinating locals who call McGregor home.
FRIDAY AFTERNOON
If you manage to escape the confines of the city around lunchtime, the drive from Cape Town to McGregor shouldn’t take more than two-and-a-half hours. Aim to arrive at around 15:00, just in time for a tasting at Lord’s Winery (only open Monday to Friday until 16:00), high in the Riviersonderend Mountains along ‘the road to nowhere’. Vineyards here are at 500 metres above sea level, the highest in the Robertson Valley. Wines have been produced at Lord’s since 2006 and the estate has become known for its Pinot Noir. But most recently it has become equally well known for its toffee and wine tasting – a unique offering in the valley (tel 023 625 1265).
FRIDAY EVENING
With the first wine tasting of the weekend having made work a distant memory, check in to your accommodation (McGregor offers a selection of B&Bs and self-catering options – for our suggestions see the accompanying box) before negotiating the short dirt road from McGregor to Kingsriver Estate (tel 023 625 1040). Sip sundowners on the stoep overlooking the valley or ask Dutch owner Ruud de Clercq to conduct a tasting of his boutique wines. An ex real-estate developer who spent eight years in France where he owned an amusement park, Ruud chose to delve into winemaking because, like property development, “it’s an intellectual challenge”. He’s been making wine at Kingsriver for just five years and is largely a self-taught winemaker – or ‘vigneron’ as he calls himself “because I’m part winemaker, part philosopher”. Since 2005, he has produced on average just 5 000 bottles per year, including Ruby Cabernet, Shiraz and Colombar, which are currently only available at the estate.
Follow your tasting with dinner at the restaurant. Starters include hearty soups, prawns wrapped in bacon, duck spring rolls. Mains are a meaty affair, with beef fillet and sirloin being popular options. The wine list includes Kingsriver wines as well as a select few from the region.
SATURDAY MORNING
Parents with children in tow may want to start their day with a visit to the Donkey Sanctuary 2km outside McGregor. The farm is a refuge for abused and neglected donkeys and the kids will enjoy petting these loveable animals while you get to make a donation or even adopt a donkey by contributing towards the costs of their upkeep.
Once the kids have had their fun, head over the road to the McGregor Winery. The area is best known for its Colombard and Ruby Cabernet and the co-op, which has won a stream of Wine magazine Best Value Awards over the years, makes decent examples of each. The easy-drinking, unwooded Chardonnay is a super-quaffer and in winter you can’t leave without trying the Ruby Port made from Ruby Cabernet grapes. Expect to fill your boot with value-for-money wines.
Now head back into town to explore the main street of McGregor. The area is frequented by a vibrant community of artists, from sculptors to painters and potters, and a number of small galleries will interest art-lovers.
Deli Girls is a fun stop for foodies. Expect to find fresh trout, local cheeses, interesting spices, dried mushrooms and even tinned herrings. Pause for a cup of coffee on the deli’s porch or, if you’re feeling energetic, hire bicycles from the tourism information centre and peddle along the quiet town streets lined with whitewashed thatched cottages.
SATURDAY AFTERNOON
Lunch in McGregor is a leisurely affair. Take your pick from a number of coffee shops that serve light meals or head to Tebaldi’s for country-style fare; think home-made chicken and leek pie or a gourmet sandwich with Parma ham, artichoke, sundried tomatoes and Parmesan shavings. Inside is candlelit with white tablecloths and a fireplace. Outside the stoep with blue-chequered tablecloths allows you to watch the town go about its Saturday afternoon business.
Once you’ve filled your belly, call ahead to Tanagra Wine and Guest Farm (tel 023 625 1780) and book a tasting with Robert Rosenbach. Originally from Germany, Robert, an ex business consultant, and wife Anette, who was a professor of linguistics, are warm, entertaining hosts and will happily tell stories of their lives in the Mosel area, as well as their new, eccentric friends in McGregor. Garagiste winemaker John Hargreaves from Wolfdoring Wines currently makes wine for Tanagra – Cab Sav, Merlot and Shiraz singlevarietal bottlings, as well as a Merlot-Cab Franc blend called John’s Medley and a Rosé Cabernet Franc. Bargain-hunters may also be interested to know that the Felicity 2003, an accessible Bordeauxstyle blend, is for sale at just R50.
And don’t expect to leave without being coerced into trying Tanagra’s delicious grappa. Robert is rightfully proud of his boutique distillery that produces a small range of grappas and eau de vie in a German combined pot and column still under the guidance of.German master distiller Hubertus Vallendar.
SATURDAY EVENING
For dinner, the tiny Karoux restaurant (tel 023 625 1421), which accommodates just 30 diners, is a must. But be sure to make a reservation or be prepared to arm-wrestle for a table with the locals.
Located through an archway in a courtyard just off the main drag, the retro decor is a collection of antiques and statement pieces picked up at secondhand stores. An ever-changing blackboard often features the signature duck spring roll (which chef/owners Kurt and André Middleton-Le Roux say pairs very well with Tanagra’s Shiraz), Louisiana gumbo and lamb shank. A short list of local wines is available at reasonable prices.
SUNDAY MORNING
Stretch your legs before the drive back home with a walk along one of the many trails in and around McGregor. Locals recommend the Krans Nature Reserve and, for a terrific view over the village, the Kleinberg Trail, an easy two-hour walk up Badge Hill. (For more info on the trails go to www.mcgregorvillage.co.za.)
WHERE TO STAY
KINGSRIVER ESTATE
Tel 023 625 1040; www.kingsriver-estate.com
Four-star double rooms from R605 per person sharing per night, including dinner, bed and breakfast. What makes it special? One of the oldest farms in the region, the restored homestead is surrounded by Karoo fynbos. Although just 2km from McGregor, its position in the valley makes it appear isolated – perfect for stargazing and a weekend of relaxation. Hiking trails lead to ancient Bushman caves.
TANAGRA
Tel 023 625 1780; www.tanagra-wines.co.za
Cosy ‘apartments’ each with a fireplace and kitchenette from R325 per person (self-catering) or from R425 for bed and breakfast. What makes it special? This is a bird-watcher’s paradise. Sit on your stoep gazing at the sunset with calls of the fish eagle in the background while sipping on Robert’s delicious grappa and eau de vie. Anette’s traditional German breakfasts are legendary; boiled eggs, cold meats, cheeses, an assortment of breads, fruit, fresh coffee... And if you love her homemade jams as much as we did, you’ll be glad to know a limited number of jars are available to purchase.
