November 2001 Buying Guide: Cap Classique vs Champagne
For many local bubbly producers Champagne is the holy grail. The classic varieties of Pinot Noir, Champagne and Pinot Meunier are assiduously cultivated and the traditional method of secondary fermentation in the bottle meticulously followed. Fiona McDonald reports on WINE's panel tasting which judged cap classiques and the MORE affordable champagnes available locally.
Twee Jonge Gezellen's Nicky Krone has a theory about sparkling wine - a very technical explanation about positive and negative ions and charges. Basically the theory is that bubbly gives the drinker a positive charge and puts them in a good frame of mind - which may explain why WINE magazine's notoriously miserly tasting panel dished out only their 14th five star rating. The ultimate accolade went to Piper-Heidsieck's Brut non-vintage.
"No doubt about it being a five star," said avowed bubbly fan Allan Mullins CWM. "I'll happily drink that all day long!"
The French are very territorial about their products particularly the use of regional wine names. Circumventing the Champagne conundrum by adopting the term Méthode Cap Classique allowed local bubbly producers not only to indicate its traditional French Champagne method of production but also gave it a uniquely South African - or Cape - spin by indicating its geographical origin.
And this year's tasting showed that local bubblies are improving in stature all the time. No fewer than eight local MCC sparklers rated four stars and above.
We also introduced a foreign element for our tasting panel by giving them French Champagne to judge. The criteria was that it had to be available locally at below R250. There were 16 Champagnes which fulfilled the specifications - and one ringer in a Loire Méthode Traditionelle sparkler in Grandin Brut NV.
This was not a contest to see which was better - rather, the French Champagnes were used as a yardstick, to measure local performance. The judges were unanimous that local bubblies are improving all the time.
"I found very few dogs - possibly one or two - among the local lineup," said Dave Hughes. "But then I found the same among the Champagnes." A sentiment echoed by panel chairman Tony Mossop CWM who said there were few MCCs he scored under 15 points.
"But there was a definite step up when we got to the Champagnes."
Two things stood out he said: complexity of the nose with far more toasty biscuit, lime and leesy autolytic character coming to the fore and the long drawn out, lingering limey acidity "which you don't get with MCC".
There was some discussion about the merits of intermingling the Champagnes and MCC wines for judging. While TJ's Nicky Krone said he felt it would have jumpstarted the brain a bit, the other panellists believed the separation was correct rather than muddying the waters.
"I get helluva excited when I see some of these older MCCs and how they're performing!" was Krone's summation.
Woolworth's wine chief Mullins "was a bit disappointed at the non-vintage MCCs while some of the older vintage MCCs also didn't show as well as I would have expected. I don't know whether the guys have kept them sitting around too long."
Both Hughes and Krone, a former Diners Club winemaker of the year for sparkling wine, pointed out that the best is yet to come. Producers are on a steep learning curve but the impact of their efforts are only felt after a few years.
"The base wines I've tasted from 2001 are the best ever," said Krone.
"I can't wait to see how they show in two or three years time."
While he was positive in his appreciation of the 60 wines on offer, scoring more than a few around 17 and 18 points, Stellenbosch Vineyards' Mike Graham said he was interested to find a few technical faults on the Champagnes. A point made by Mossop when he said the winemakers on the panel judged the French wines more stringently.
"I think I judged differently to the other guys because instead of sitting down and saying 'This is a nice wine' I tend to approach it by thinking 'what's wrong with this one' so I'm more critical from a winemaking perspective," said Graham.
The wines which rated well did so because of the integration of fruit and acid as well as complexity and bottle maturation. Cap Classique prophet Achim von Arnim expounds at length about his wines not being showy on their own, finding their best expression with food - oysters or mussels with Pierre Jourdan Cuvée Belle Rose being a match made in heaven he believes.
The rosé class was one which the judges unanimously enjoyed, finding good complexity and character on the wines.
The sparkling reds "were a bit tricky" as chairman Mossop said, simply because there are only two produced locally and one of them was made by fellow judge Mike Graham!
"I like my port without bubbles," he quipped but hedged all the judges bets by saying that this was a wine style which South Africans were not used to.
One wine which provoked some discussion was Morgenhof's Reserve Centenaire 1997. A few of the judges noted that it was quite oaky, one even going so far as to describe it as clumsy but tempered his criticism by saying that it may integrate in time.
Another wine singled out for attention was Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 1998. Its maker Nicky Krone found a slight mintiness, while Mullins described it as unusual and Mossop said it was almost as though peach extract had been added.
But in spite of all of these viewpoints and different approaches, all the judges were unanimous in being positive about the category - and the scores reflected this.
In 1999 29 local wines judged resulted in a paltry pair of four star wines, while in 2000 this leaped to 9 wines from a selection of 36 - a solid 25% cracking the same rating.
This year it was eight from a total of 43 contenders. That's just shy of 20% but it's obvious to see the interest among producers and the growth of the MCC class.
Our producers cannot rival the limestone rich soils and cool growing climate which result in the wonderful complexity, limey acidity and all round class, elegance and finesse of Champagne - but then nor can California or Australia. Spain has created its own niche with Cava and all indications are that the potential is there for South Africa to do the same with Méthode Cap Classique.
4½ stars
Laborie Brut 1996 CELLAR PRICE: R40.50 Pale straw gold. Fine medium paced bead with a lively mousse. Good yeasty nose. Lovely sherbety lime flavours with biscuit and toast. Crisp finish. Drink now to two years.
Graham Beck Brut Blanc de Blanc 1996 CELLAR PRICE: R65.00 Lemon yellow/green. Lots of vigorous bead. Leesy, cheesy nose - hint of sourdough bread. Crisp, developed fruit on the palate with lemon and fruit salad. Zippy but with underlying power. Good complexity and depth. When to drink? Elevenses, lunchtime, sundowners - could keep it for at least three years.
JC le Roux Chardonnay 1996 APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R51.55 Deep yellow. Lots of active bead with fizzy rim. Very biscuity, autolysed toasty brioche nose. Big wine. Beautiful. Spice and herbs on the palate - quite forceful. Good now and for another two years.
Simonsig Brut Cuvée Royale 1992 CELLAR PRICE: R75.00 Darker yellow gold. Lovely mousse. Showing bottle age on colour and nose. Some aldehyde with nutty herbal aroma. Nice clean palate with limey flavours along with red grape hints - bit of raspberry on entry. Drink now.
Bon Courage Jacques Bruére Brut Reserve 1998 CELLAR PRICE: R48.00 Brassy yellow, old straw. Good fine mousse with vigorous bead. Bready, biscuit aroma with nice full palate: marmalade fruit, sweet sour, baked apples. Crisp, fresh and complex. Drink now or within the next year.
Four Sisters Pinot Noir 1997 RUITERSVLEI PRICE: R35.00 Clear yellow straw. Lots of lively fizz, fine medium paced bead. Creamy aroma. Well balanced red and white grape. Some yeast, crisp, creamy, well-made. Clean finish. Consume post haste or within a year.
Villiera Tradition Brut Rosé NV CELLAR PRICE: R33.45 Eye of partridge with a fine, lazy bead - lots of it. Shy strawberry and cream nose. Lovely red fruit flavours. Fine balance. Drink now.
Woolworths Brut Rosé NV APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R38.99 Coral pink, salmon. Big bubble rim, very little bead. Tangy nose with lots of doughy character. Lovely cherry/berry palate. Creamy, full and fruity. Pop the cork within a year. (Made at Villiera).
4 stars
Piper-Heidsieck Brut NV MAKRO PRICE: R229.00 Rich green lemon/lime colour. Good active bead and massive mousse. Lovely biscuit, lemon/citrus and toasty nose. Rich mouthfilling creamy wine. Complex and well-balanced. "What Champagne's all about!" One taster recommended drinking day and night, but the others agreed that between now and five years would be good.
3½ stars
Michel Gonet Grand Cru Brut 1996 APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R220.00 U Pale green straw. Fine slow bead. Complex nutty, biscuit/toasty nose. Well-balanced citrus flavour. Complex, elegant - wine with finesse. Drink now or in four years.
Drappier Brut Carte d'or 1995 APPROX RETAIL PRICE:R222.30 C Pale green gold. Very fine bead, big mousse. Creamy toasty citrus whiffs followed by loads of the same on the palate. Long, limey, crisp and clean finish. Drink with food and friends anytime for the next three years.
Drappier Brut Carte Blanche NV APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R191.52 C Biscuity yellow. Big clean mousse with fine bead. Leesy apple nose with some lemon notes. Biscuit and yeast flavours with nice red grape touch. Lovely crispness. Drink now or within two years.
Drappier Brut Cuvée Signature Blanc de Blancs de Chardonnay NV APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R222.30 C Bright yellow/green straw. Very fine bead, good mousse. Toast and herb aromas. Lovely acid and balance with good fruit flavour. Fresh finish. A good two to three years of life in it.
Nicolas Feuillatte Premier Cru Rosé NV APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R218.00 R Partridge eye colour. Slow, ultra-fine bead. Shy raspberry nose with some biscuit notes. Nice red fruits - yeasty, bread taste. Good complexity. Drink now to two years.
Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R225.00 R Pale gold. Earthy wet limestone nose with some spice. Lovely mouthfeel and length. Rounded with lemon cream flavours. Good for another two years.
Gosset Excellence Brut NV APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R176.00 ME Pale yellow straw. Lazy, widespread bead. Nice biscuit/sourdough nose. Lovely lively entry on to the palate with good bread, citrus and yeast flavours. Classic Champagne. Drink now.
Oudinot Cuvée Brut NV WOOLWORTHS PRICE: R189.99 Light yellow gold. Vigorous head with slow bead. Herbal toasty nose with crisp lemon flavour. Lots of fruit and nice balance; a touch austere. Drink now or within two years.
Gosset Brut Grand Réserve NV APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R205.00 ME Clear yellow. Sporadic bead. Shy, earthy, creamy, yeast nose. Sweet entry, toasty flavours with citrus fruit and crisp finish. There's life in this one and will be for two years.
Helderkruin Phyllis Hands Grand Brut 1998 R30.00 Villiera Tradition Brut NV R32.35 Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 97 R38.50 Woolworths Brut Reserve NV **R39.99 Infiniti Brut 1999 ^R40.00 Cape Chamonix Courchevel Cuvée Brut 1999 R42.00 Villiera Brut Natural Chardonnay 1999 R42.70 Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut 98 R43.20 Buitenverwachting Brut NV R45.00 Villiera Brut 1995 R45.40 Pierre Jourdan Cuvée Belle Rose NV †R70.00 Morgenhof Reserve Centenaire 1997 R95.00
3 stars
Pongrácz Pinot Noir/ Chardonnay NV ^^+R45.07 Villiera Monro Brut Premiere Cuvée 1995 R45.40 Boschendal Brut 1998 R49.20 Woolworths Brut Vintage Reserve 1994 **+R49.99 Ambeloui Christo 2000 R50.00 Twee Jonge Gezellen Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 1997 * R50.00 Hazendal White Nights Brut 98 R68.40 Pierre Jourdan Cuvée Resèrve NV †R120.00
2½ stars
Avontuur Brut NV R43.50 Soleil du Matin Brut NV ~R45.00 Pierre Jourdan Brut NV †R48.00 Saxenburg Le Phantom Brut NV R48.00 Steenberg 1682 Brut NV *R51.50 Graham Beck Pinotage Sparkling Red NV R65.00
2 stars
JC Le Roux La Vallée 1998 +R33.55 Infiniti Sparkling Shiraz NV ^R47.00 Twee Jonge Gezellen Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 1998 R47.00 Pierre Jourdan Brut Blanc de Blancs NV †R80.00
1 star
Bloemendal Brut NV R30.00 Woolworths Brut NV **+R38.99
Champagne
3½ stars
M. Hostomme Blanc de Blancs R195.00 Grand Cru NV U R195.00 Montaudon Brut NV UWL+R217.49 Louis Roederer Brut R195.00 Premier NV D+R244.00
3 stars
Cattier Brut Premier Cru NV P R159.95 Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Premier Cru NV R R175.00 Delamotte Brut NV E R199.00
Méthode Traditionelle
Grandin Brut NV (Loire) +M R39.80
D From Distell P From Picardi Rebel liquor stores E From Enoteca + Approximate retail price * Limited availability ** Made at Villiera ^ Stellenbosch Vineyards ^^ JC Le Roux † From Cabriere ~ Môreson Matin Soleil
WINE Tasters: Tony Mossop CWM (Panel Chairman), Allan Mullins CWM, Dave Hughes (Honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters), winemakers Mike Graham (Stellenbosch Vineyards) and Nicky Krone (Twee Jonge Gezellen).
