Not a cent spared at Steenberg
Not a cent spared
We visit Steenberg on a typically rainy spring day and the tasting room is quiet. But the setting – even through the drizzle – is spectacular, against the mountains that form the spine of the peninsula. The tasting room is divided into two sections; the first a rather sterile bar counter (it looks a bit like a ship that sailed into the large vaulted room – perhaps a reference to the HMS Rattlesnake, a battle ship sunk during the Battle of Muizenberg in 1795, after which the Steenberg HMS Rattlesnake Sauvignon Blanc is named), and the second a plush lounge area where couches are grouped together in intimate configurations, overlooking rim-flow pools.
With no-one available to seat us, we initially mistake the lounge as being part of the on-site restaurant Bistro 1682, but when we finally make ourselves comfortable we are impressed by the effort that has gone into decorating the beautiful tasting room – and we’re even more impressed to learn that the tasting is free (unless you would like to sample the ‘ultra premium’ range, in which case a tasting fee of R50 is charged).
My tasting partner cheaps out and opts for the free tasting. We ease into things with a glass of Steenberg 1682 Chardonnay Méthode Cap Classique NV (R120) with classic toasty notes on the nose and a creamy, full mouthfeel. My partner samples the Klein Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2010, which he finds suitably green and fresh – and at R44 it’s also pocket friendly. I’ve paid my R50 and am on to the serious stuff. My Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (part of the ‘super premium’ range at R90 per bottle) displays gooseberries and guava on the nose, while a crisp acidity adds finesse.
While I move on to the ultra premium tier – which, in the white category, includes the Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2009 (R120), a Semillon 2009 (R180) and the Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2008 blend (R160) – my partner tries the Shiraz-based Rosé 2009 (R44). “It has the texture of a creamy Chardonnay, but is dry and drinkable,” he says. (Cue Barry Hilton with a ukulele?)
The rain lashes the huge pool in front of us, but we are safe and snug behind massive glass doors. The Merlot 2008 (R120) arrives, which displays the minty characteristics for which Steenberg has become well known. The Shiraz 2008 (which scored 4 Stars in the 2010 Wine magazine Global Trader Shiraz Challenge) displays a similar touch of mint, as well as spice and concentrated red and black fruit. My partner laments the fact that our hostess pours such small quantities – but his tasting is free, so I tell him to stop complaining and drink up. I enjoy the Nebbiolo 2008 (R160), a dense, serious wine that we’re told is made in the traditional Italian style, and end off with the iconic Catharina 2007 (R175), a blend of Cabernet and Merlot with a dash of Cabernet Franc. It’s an elegant wine that needs another five years in cellar to really come into its own.
We linger for some time after the last wine is poured, wondering what would happen if one were to add a few energetic kids and a couple of up-country freeloaders to the setting. We suspect that the tasting room risks becoming bit of a tourist trap in summer holidays, but we’d need to go back in peak season to say for sure. Rather than take the chance though, I’ll hang on to my idyllic memory of Steenberg.
VERDICT
LIKES
• The exquisite décor.
• Knowledgeable staff who are attentive, but not intrusive.
DISLIKES
• The amount of wine poured isn’t particularly generous (even for the paid tasting).
WHAT ELSE IS THERE?
Diners are well catered for at Steenberg by the highly acclaimed Bistro 1682 and Catharina’s – a fine-dining restaurant. An 18-hole championship golf course and five-star hotel is also situated on the property.
STEENBERG is located on Tokai Road in Constantia. The tasting room is open on weekdays from 8:30 to 15:00 and weekends from 10:00 to 18:00 Contact the winery on 021 713 2211.
