No ABC syndrome for Shiraz
As a wine lover you’re no doubt enthusiastic about Shiraz, but as it draws further attention, what does the future actually hold for this variety; locally and as a global player? A tasting held recently at La Motte, with international wine tasters and speakers, drew out some interesting issues behind this wine, its styles and challenges.
Key insights of the day were summed up by Michael Fridjhon, who commented on the potential for evolution for this grape, and how a wine style has to speak for itself. He noted that Shiraz is at a crossroads in terms of its economic future and popular appeal. It was the grape deemed “sunshine in a bottle” as Australia developed it into the bold, fruit-forward famed style. In the slipstream that followed, a huge amount of plantings occurred around the world, many of which were from “cynical intentions”; a solely commercial aim being the main driving force. Badly-intentioned plantings have largely affected the bottom end of the market – the overall burden for this grape going forward. We need to take a page out of Chardonnay’s history book to prevent Shiraz possibly falling into a similar ‘ABC’ crisis. Master of Wine, Lynne Sherriff, recalled that around the year 2000, Chardonnay was considered ‘the bar drink’, but it developed such an extreme style that consumers declared something of a revolt against it; the drink of choice became ‘ABC – Anything But Chardonnay’.
Another similarity shared with Chardonnay is the fact that there are two style opportunities open, and they’re at opposite ends of the spectrum, like that experienced with the steely minerality of Old World Chablis and the buttery, fruit flavours of New World Chardonnay. Syrah/Shiraz has its own continuum, from the peppery, savoury, lean style of the Rhone Valley to the sweet, rich and ripe of the New World examples. Fridjhon also noted that one of the ‘commercial catches’ in winemaking is that if an extreme characteristic in a wine is successful, it is then developed to an even greater extent. While tempting, this is risky as it is not necessarily the formula that will provide a steady way forward and can become consumer-unfriendly.
A large percentage of poorly managed fruit will damage the brand image of the cultivar. Shiraz has acquired certain descriptors like ‘leathery’, going so far as ‘sweaty saddles’, which are not helping its image. Some still perceive it as alcoholic, tannic or sour, and it’s therefore moving into a bit of a love-hate state. Australian exports are now in decline, and the US has not embraced this grape.
For the future, the message about Shiraz needs to be clear and concise, fresh and exciting. A tasting of 12 Shiraz/Syrah gave a small snapshot of the essence of the two styles, and the incredible depth it is capable of in both camps. A vote revealed the most popular wine of the day to be Geoff Merrill’s 2004 Henley Shiraz from McLaren Vale, South Australia, showing complex fruit and cinnamon spice flavours. Interestingly, the second most popular choice turned out to be local 2007 Eagles' Nest Shiraz with aromatic pepperiness and a well integrated balance of fruit and savoury notes. This does point to a bright future for Shiraz, if quality remains in focus.
