New York State, United States of America
Thanks to technological advances, improved agricultural techniques and refined clonal selection over the past two decades, New York State winemakers have been able to successfully grow vinifera vines, facilitating a move away from "foxy-tasting" native American grapes (like Niagara and Concord) and French-American hybrids.
The soils of some parts of New York state are deep, well-drained and suited to viticulture. Weather conditions may be tough, with a short growing season, a long, icy winter and hazardously sudden temperature changes, but the climate is moderated by large tracts of water: Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and the Finger Lakes.
More than 13 000 hectares of land are devoted to vineyards - but only about 33% of all grapes harvested are used for wine production. Most are destined for grape juice, jellies, jams and table grapes.
New York's wine regions are situated between 43 and 41º N, a latitude similar to the winelands of Northern California, but further south than Burgundy, Bordeaux, Champagne and the Rheingau.
New York State features six American Viticultural Areas (or AVAs) in four main wine regions: Finger Lakes (which includes Cayuga Lake AVA), Lake Erie, Hudson River and Long Island (which includes The Hamptons AVA).
Finger Lakes
About 90% of the state's wine is produced in this region with grape plantings
exceeding 4 000 hectares.
The narrow, deep lakes were carved by Ice Age glaciers. Combined with the steepness of the surrounding slopes, they provide excellent air drainage and water drainage, and reduce temperature extremes in winter and summer. (The lakes retain their summer warmth in winter, warming any cold air that slides over it. Conversely, in spring the coldness of the lake delays budding until the frosty days have passed.) Attracting much interest lately is the area around Lake Seneca.
The mainstays of New York's wine industry were, for many years, port and sherry-type wines, sweet table wines and sparkling wines.
Many of the plantings are native labrusca varieties like Catawba, Niagara and Delaware, and French-American hybrids, but Riesling does well in this cool climate, as do Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc. Chardonnay remains the most popular vinifera varietal.
The sparkling wines of this region tend to resemble those of Champagne, being light and lean and quite unlike the richer, fruitier versions made in California.
Lake Erie
One of the Great Lakes on the border of the US and Canada, Lake Erie provides
much protection against weather extremes. It has the largest vineyard area in
New York State (7 000 hectares), but most of its grapes are used as table grapes
and grape juice - a lasting legacy of the Prohibitionists.
In the future more wine will be made here as a large number of vineyards have been replanted with suitable wine grape varieties.
Hudson River
Only about 300 hectares are planted with vines, but the oldest vineyard and
winery still in operation in the US is situated in this region. Established
in 1839, it's called Brotherhood. Moderated by the majestic Hudson River and
a steep palisaded valley, the region grows several vinifera varieties as well
as the white French hybrid, Seyval Blanc. One of the world's largest kosher
wineries, Royal Kedem Wine Corporation, is situated here.
Long Island
New York State's newest and fastest growing region, Long Island is surrounded
by massive bodies of water that make the climate temperate, limit the threat
of frost and reduce daily temperature swings, but increase the risk of hurricanes.
Its vineyards total about 550 hectares.
The growing season is longer than New York State's other regions, so varieties like Chardonnay, Gewürz-traminer, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc do particularly well here.
The "fury of planting in the east", as Hugh Johnson calls it, is not limited to New York. States like Ohio, Michigan, Pennsylvania and Virginia have also been experimenting with European varieties and increasing their plantings.
