Muratie tasting room review

Muratie

Walking through the cellar doors to Muratie's tasting room, one is immediately entranced by a sense of romance and a rich, deep history.

Paintings line the cracked, crumbling walls and cobwebs cover the windows, transporting one back to a time of horse wagons and men in petticoat breeches, while old newspaper clippings are testament to the stature of this wine farm.

 

It's not surprising that romance permeates the building as love stories have been the foundation of the farm since 1685 when a German soldier by the name of Lourens Campher was allocated the piece of land. Campher had fallen in love with a slave girl, Ansela, and for 15 years walked through the Simonsberg to Cape Town to visit her.

When in 1699 she was freed, Campher brought her to the farm where they became the first family to cultivate the land. Nearly a century later the Melck family bought the farm, which they owned for another 100 years before the land that would eventually become known as Muratie was sold off .

Muratie is a corruption of the Dutch word ‘murasie' meaning ‘ruin' - which reflected the disrepair and ill-fortune which had befallen the property by the time GP Canitz bought it in the 1920s.

The German-born aristocrat and artist restored both the homestead and farm together with his daughter Annemarie and by 1927 Muratie produced South Africa's first Pinot Noir.

Most of the paintings housed in the cellar gallery are by the flamboyant Canitz, while one special painting hangs behind the tasting counter. This painting of Amber, presumably Canitz's mistress, is one of a series of 14 artworks featuring the sultry woman - and the only one suitable of being displayed in public as it is the only one of her clothed! Today this painting is also found adorning the bottle of Muratie's Amber Forever Muscat d'Alexandrie.

In 1987 the farm returned to the Melck fold and the family has since made a concerted effort to retain the traditional methods and values in its winemaking and in the cellar-door experience.

The farm's modest, rustic tasting area may not be able to cater for large tour groups in its quaint rooms, but this is part of the appeal. It exudes a certain humbleness and tradition, which is carried through to the wines.

A combined effort between family and consultants has seen the range grow from Ansela, a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, dessert wine and Port, to include Shiraz, which has done exceptionally well, as well as a Merlot.

Of course Muratie is most famous for its Port - the Cape Ruby (R75) has just scored 3 Stars in WINE magazine's tasting (see p. 81) - and many tourists make the trip to the winery to stock up on the delicious ruby liquid for winter months.

The Shiraz (R125) has also received much acclaim of late, as has the signature Ansela van de Caab 2007 (R160), named after Campher's slave wife, with its velvety tannins and intense fruity palate. Meanwhile the Isabella Chardonnay (R89) is establishing an ever-growing following with notes of citrus and minerality on the finish.

The tasting experience at Muratie is comfortable and relaxed, and the farm also caters for small intimate lunches and functions. Annatjie Melck serves traditional Karoo afval on Friday afternoons and intimate Sunday lunches consist of hearty comfort food such as homemade chicken pie and lamb shank.

If it's glitz and glamour you are after in a wine-tasting experience, Muratie may not be for you - but that would be a shame, because the fairytale-like charm of the tasting room is something lacking at many other estates.

Muratie, Knorhoek Road
Open for tasting Monday to Sunday,
10am to 5pm
Tel: +27 21 865 2330

NEIGHBOURS OF NOTE
Knorhoek - Wines to try are the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Cabernet Franc. Popular for weddings and functions, Knorhoek
also has a restaurant and guesthouse.

Delheim - Renowned for its Grand Reserve, dating back to 1981, the cosy tasting room is perfect for a chilly winter's
afternoon and a well-established restaurant serves hearty meals.

Quoin Rock Simonsberg - A dramatic tasting room - and wines to match. The farm makes excellent Sauvignon Blanc, but be sure to also try the Merlot and Syrah.

OVERALL RATING:
WINES: Select range showing quality
SERVICE: Warm and knowledgeable
AMBIENCE: Quaint, cosy and rustic